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New radiator hit with fork lift

and got a quick response when ebay asks, this sucks it will take a week before i get a refund and then have to start over
from now on ill take skunked advice and start through ebay right away when there is a problem
 
do you have a link for those man ,I have been looking and cannot find them with a screw hole
 
Kain said:
do you have a link for those man ,I have been looking and cannot find them with a screw hole
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they were from entropy radiator. But you have to have a bung to screw them in. If you have an auto trans with in radiator cooler, just make sure your trans is grounded.
 
I may be out of line chiming in with such a respected, knowledgeable group here, and I'm sure if I get shot down, I deserve it. It seems to me, though, in my meager understanding of electrolysis, that adding an anode is merely fixing a symptom rather than fixing the problem. If you have more than 75mV across the coolant to a ground, you will have corrosion problems if there are aluminum parts in that coolant. It's because the coolant has become, or started out as acidic. It usually comes from exhaust gasses getting past the head gasket (CO2, NOx or SO2) and turning the water acidic. It can also be dissolved salts in the water, which is why even using distilled water can fail...the salts are added to the water as they leach from the engine and contaminate the distilled water.
The way these anodes work is they provide a very reactive surface, more reactive than aluminum, and therefore they will corrode first, allegedly saving your aluminum. However, I have to point out that modern coolants have an anti-corrosion package included with the other chemicals in the coolant. If the anode is used, the anti-corrosion chemicals will do their best to protect that anode, but will quickly be depleted and now you have nothing left to protect your heads or other aluminum. Additionally, the very small contaminants from the corroded zinc or magnesium anode will now be circulating through your coolant, and will most likely adhere to the hottest surface they encounter, the small passages in your aluminum heads. That rod doesn't just disappear. It goes somewhere, there's no black hole in your cooling system. What goes in will be there, maybe in a different form, but it's all there. Many of today's modern engines have aluminum heads, for example the Corvette and Camaro. No anodes there. I may be wrong, but I don't think any OEM in the US uses an anode.
Don't get me wrong, if you have water conducting electricity in your cooling system, it's a bad thing that you need to fix right now. But adding an anode is like putting a band aid on a bullet hole. Fix the problem that's causing the electrolysis.
Anodes are for boats, where you can't control the conductivity of the water coming in contact with the metals. You should be able to balance your PH and get the relatively small amount of water in your cooling system under control.
At least that's my understanding of why you don't want to run an anode in an automotive application.
 
I can't say if GM continues use an anode, maybe they found a solution. Early to mid 90s 454 had an anode factory on the intake, was the snap in connection for the heater pipe.
I spent many an hour extracting leaking broken anodes on these trucks. Plus many heater core failures.
I put dexcool in most aluminum rad, gm or not. Exception being hybrid or electric
 
Guess I better go check my own to see if there's an anode in there, I've got a '96, don't think there is one, but obviously I don't know much...that being said, would it have been on the inlet to the heater core? Might have been what was causing the core failures was the anode sucking all the corrosion protection out of the coolant and the bits of anode lodging in the small spaces of the heater core causing those tubes to corrode out. But I think I've digressed far enough from the evils of Fed Ex and radiator packaging to get back on topic. The whole reason replied was actually to throw out the name Mishimoto. Not only is their packaging great (although not able to stop a forklift) but their lifetime warranty makes it a good choice, they even cover the radiator if it's damaged in a crash. I think they were about the same quality as the others, at about the same price. The warranty pushed it over the edge for me, and I've been very happy with mine for the last 7 years or so.
 
There’s electrolysis and galvanic corrosion. In my case, radiator not installed yet sitting on the ground, I could measure voltage between the coolant and the radiator body. And I kept getting failed joints in multiple radiators. Once I grounded the radiator, the voltage went away and corrosion stopped. I think the anode is just an extra measure of safety in case of electrolysis. I took my anode out to check it and found zero corrosion on it.
 
bp71k5 said:
There’s electrolysis and galvanic corrosion. In my case, radiator not installed yet sitting on the ground, I could measure voltage between the coolant and the radiator body. And I kept getting failed joints in multiple radiators. Once I grounded the radiator, the voltage went away and corrosion stopped. I think the anode is just an extra measure of safety in case of electrolysis. I took my anode out to check it and found zero corrosion on it.
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I don't understand this. If the coolant is conductive, then unless every metal surface in the cooling system is non-conductive, how is it not grounded already?

Not arguing, I simply don't get it. I find it hard to believe all internal metal surfaces are completely non-conductive, for whatever reason. But there is (varying) measurable stray voltage, so how?

I read the same about anodes before. It's why I said screw it, and have decided to stop trying to keep my coolants additive package topped up...I'm simply going to replace the coolant at the manufacturers stated interval and hope that other than ripping me off with too frequent changes, my cooling system will stay in good shape.
 
dyeager535 said:
I don't understand this. If the coolant is conductive, then unless every metal surface in the cooling system is non-conductive, how is it not grounded already?

Not arguing, I simply don't get it. I find it hard to believe all internal metal surfaces are completely non-conductive, for whatever reason. But there is (varying) measurable stray voltage, so how?

I read the same about anodes before. It's why I said screw it, and have decided to stop trying to keep my coolants additive package topped up...I'm simply going to replace the coolant at the manufacturers stated interval and hope that other than ripping me off with too frequent changes, my cooling system will stay in good shape.
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In my case the radiator is not grounded naturally because of the rubber mounts. If you have an auto trans the cooler lines in direct contact with coolant will provide a ground path for the voltage that builds up to dissipate. Simply grounding the electrode, allowthe voltage to dissipate directly.

Also , I was able to measure a brand new radiator on the pavement filled with water a voltage across the radiator body and the water/coolant. Same also happened with my brass radiator.

edit: a little more info might help. When I was testing for the entropy guy, while the engine was idling, the voltage between the coolant and the negative battery post would consistently climb very slowly over time and not go down. When I’d increase rpm, voltage would increase a little faster. The coolant eventually finds a poor ground path through the coolant into the engine, but I suspect it’s a poor ground path since I kept getting voltage build up.
 
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Right...but if there is voltage in the coolant in the radiator, then that means there has to be in the engine as well. Which is grounded.

Overall the problem seems to be improper/inadequate grounding, at least what I can find. Anodes would seem a bad solution if they strip the anti-corrosion package out of the coolant.

Maybe I'm missing something.
 
dyeager535 said:
Right...but if there is voltage in the coolant in the radiator, then that means there has to be in the engine as well. Which is grounded.

Overall the problem seems to be improper/inadequate grounding, at least what I can find. Anodes would seem a bad solution if they strip the anti-corrosion package out of the coolant.

Maybe I'm missing something.
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No, I think I know what you mean with “inadequate ground”. My engine was/is solidly grounded to the battery directly, but it just seems like the charge in the coolant can’t get to ground very easily without a direct connection. I assume the coolant to block connection isn’t a very good electrical connection, even though the anode would seem to have the same problem.

Though I wonder if the issue is the radiator body not having a good enough ground is really the problem. Would make sense since the charge buildup would have to first get from the radiator to the coolant and then get from the coolant to the engine block.
 
I'd like to compare voltage in the coolant at the radiator, with voltage of the radiator itself with an "ungrounded" radiator, especially with a known problem.

Failed coolant additive packages are apparently a cause of seeing higher voltage in the coolant too, I'm not really sure there is a cheap/accurate/reliable way to test the additive package, thus the replacement interval.

Should have tested mine for voltage when I replaced the coolant, and continued testing each year to see if it was a noticable difference.
 
dyeager535 said:
I'd like to compare voltage in the coolant at the radiator, with voltage of the radiator itself with an "ungrounded" radiator, especially with a known problem.

Failed coolant additive packages are apparently a cause of seeing higher voltage in the coolant too, I'm not really sure there is a cheap/accurate/reliable way to test the additive package, thus the replacement interval.

Should have tested mine for voltage when I replaced the coolant, and continued testing each year to see if it was a noticable difference.
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maybe, my tests were all with new coolant so the issue was different in my case. Ron Davis also has a grounding wire kit for radiators with a big explanation on how they need to be grounded. That’s what prompted me to try it.
 
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