Newbie installing a lift! Almost done!

[4x4blaze]

I think that is way too low. I would double check a torque chart somewhere. It is a good thing you're using Stover nuts though. I have never shimmed them before. I don't think it will be an issue by any means.

Hmmm.. I know if they're too tight, they will cause it to bind and ride rougher. But I also dont want them to be too loose. I had them as tight as I could get them before, and I took the spring out of the spring due to binding... The truck rode like a log wagon...

 

[4x4blaze]

Just remember to get a longer spring center pin.
The shim needs to be bolted to the spring pack with that center pin.
5/16 head.
They sell them at Autozone.
Get steel shims too.. no aluminum

Ive got the longer centering pins and shims already installed.. But, they are aluminum... Why are these frowned upon?

 

[6872xtc]

It looks great in the pics! I believe that you have what I think is a super cool wheel and tire combo! White letters out is the best IMO!
How about a side shot showing them better?

 

[mechted]

Ive got the longer centering pins and shims already installed.. But, they are aluminum... Why are these frowned upon?

Aluminum will fatigue and break. Steel wont. Its a long term thing. Run what you have already and just keep an eye on them.
Front leaf spring bolts: 90 ft-lbs on the front bolt, 50 ft-lbs on the shackle. Torque with the suspension at ride height
U bolts: 140 ft-lbs. Recheck torque 2 or 3 times in the first week of driving.

 

[K5wrench]

Ive got the longer centering pins and shims already installed.. But, they are aluminum... Why are these frowned upon?

I've seen the aluminum shims flatten out over time.
Maybe they will be fine.
It was actually a IH Scout and that guy thrashed his rig hard.
Just keep an eye on them.

 

[4x4blaze]

It looks great in the pics! I believe that you have what I think is a super cool wheel and tire combo! White letters out is the best IMO!
How about a side shot showing them better?

Well thanks a lot man! I'm 21, but I wanted to make this truck look like 1987! A little 80's flare, but not overkill. And hell yes, you've gotta have the white letters out! Especially with the look I was shooting for! I've also got my Moon Visor to stick back on

Aluminum will fatigue and break. Steel wont. Its a long term thing. Run what you have already and just keep an eye on them.
Front leaf spring bolts: 90 ft-lbs on the front bolt, 50 ft-lbs on the shackle. Torque with the suspension at ride height
U bolts: 140 ft-lbs. Recheck torque 2 or 3 times in the first week of driving.

Good to know.. I guess I'll tightened them up a bit.. Was also a little low with my u bolt numbers, I believe I'm at 105.. But I will be checking them frequently the first couple hundred miles.

 

[4x4blaze]

@6872xtc

Not the greatest, but this picture shows the wheels off a little better! I'll post more of the finished product once its 100% back together.. & I have center caps, but they aren't on currently since I'm putting the rally's back on shortly to get it aligned.

 

[Blue85]

Hmmm.. I know if they're too tight, they will cause it to bind and ride rougher. But I also dont want them to be too loose. I had them as tight as I could get them before, and I took the spring out of the spring due to binding... The truck rode like a log wagon...

Here's the thing. There isn't supposed to be movement between the metal parts. It's a hack that goes way back to leave spring eye bolts loose. Long -term it just eggs the bolt holes out. The bolt needs enough torque to keep the sleeve locked to the shackle or spring mount. The movement happens between poly and sleeve (or from the twisting of rubber in the case of stock-type bushings. The truck can't even steer accurately when the spring bolts are loose, especially with push-pull steering.

 

[4x4blaze]

Here's the thing. There isn't supposed to be movement between the metal parts. It's a hack that goes way back to leave spring eye bolts loose. Long -term it just eggs the bolt holes out. The bolt needs enough torque to keep the sleeve locked to the shackle or spring mount. The movement happens between poly and sleeve (or from the twisting of rubber in the case of stock-type bushings. The truck can't even steer accurately when the spring bolts are loose, especially with push-pull steering.

That's by all means makes sense. And I understand the torque, but how come they will bind if tightened without the weight of the vehicle on it? & The only other thing I dont like, is since the front spring perch is getting "bent" in, the nut is not getting pulled down on a flat surface.. If you look at the picture, the bolt almost looks tweaked

 

[imiceman44]

That's by all means makes sense. And I understand the torque, but how come they will bind if tightened without the weight of the vehicle on it? & The only other thing I dont like, is since the front spring perch is getting "bent" in, the nut is not getting pulled down on a flat surface.. If you look at the picture, the bolt almost looks tweaked

I would stick some washers and shim it straight.

 

[Blue85]

Yes, washers are the general fix for undersize bushings, since vendors don't stock every width. It's strange that ORD wouldn't mention this, but perhaps their vendor recently made a change. DIY4x sells some washers for this: https://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17726&page=1. If you don't need all of 1/4" you can maybe find a hardware store part.

Hmmm.. I know if they're too tight, they will cause it to bind and ride rougher. But I also dont want them to be too loose. I had them as tight as I could get them before, and I took the spring out of the spring due to binding... The truck rode like a log wagon...

The bolt and sleeve lock to the spring mount and shackle. As the spring moves, the bushing rotates around the sleeve, which is why you pack them with grease. As I said before, leaving the bolts loose causes sloppy steering and wallowed out holes. As time goes on the bolt wears notches into it along with enlarged mount/shackle holes and the truck gets lower. With stock length shackles the spring eye will eventually hit the frame. Plus the push pull steering will shove the DS spring forward and back up to an inch under load (don't believe me? Go watch it) which wears out your bushings and makes the steering really sloppy.

The bushing needs to be as long as the sleeve, but not really any longer. If the bushing is all mashed up that does hinder proper rotation. If the sleeve is too long the springs can move side-to-side.

 

[Richcz28]

I like this blazer a lot. Those are some slick sport stripes!

 

[4x4blaze]

I like this blazer a lot. Those are some slick sport stripes!

Thanks brother! It's literally my childhood dream ever so slowly becoming a reality! And I have no idea where those sport stripes came from....! I've never seen another K5 with them so I'm pretty baffled.. & I actually started a thread on here about them a while back, but never got a solid answer. So who knows! I've never been super crazy about them, but they definitely suit this 80's bombshell!