Newbie questions and Intro

troutbum_mt · Aug 22, 2008

TDAWG1 said:
Welcome aboard man Your sucked in now ha haha welcome to the K5 side.

lmao Is it that obvious? Thanks for the welcome. Even though this rig has a ton of body cancer, it's music to my ears every time that engine runs. Going to be one expensive habit..... should have tried drugs instead. Might have been cheaper :haha:

MTBLAZER89 · Aug 22, 2008

Youch thats some rust :eek1:

LOT of work ahead of you there. Good to see another MT guy here. Welcome to CK5 again :wink1:

Wasatch K5 · Aug 23, 2008

Warren,

I know you have a lot of enthusiasm for this project, and that's great, but that rust is massive!

I really believe you'll be way ahead in the end to find a donor vehicle and combine the two. I think it will be substantially cheaper, be completed much faster, and be a more enjoyable project for you.

The thing about rust is that it is hard at work on the whole vehicle, not just the fenders, rocker panels, etc. I'll bet the tailgate is in bad shape as well as some of the floorpans. Also, if the various body support and cross members are bad, you'll have to replace them, too.

Something else you will run into is broken bolts. Depending on the location of the bolt this can range from a mild inconvenience to a major, major pain in the butt. Many, if not most, of the bolts on the underside of the vehicle will be rusted together so they will break before they loosen, but that's if you don't round the heads off first.

I know you're in Bozeman now, but not where you're from. The difference in body condition (rust) between a vehicle that has 33 Montana winters under its belt and one from the desert southwest is monumental.

Where does the miltary store their old aircraft? Tuxson, AZ. There are also aircraft storage facilities in Marana, AZ, Victorville, CA and near Palmdale, CA. There's a good reason for that.

I wish you the best of luck with whatever route you choose!

bp71k5 · Aug 23, 2008

Yea, that rust is pretty massive. Most of the fenders can be found in CA for those years, but I'd be worried about the body supports and rockers which will be tough to find for a convertible. You probably won't know what you need until you take off some stuff and open it up.

driney · Aug 23, 2008

Have you seen this article? You don't have to limit yourself to a 73-75 donor to keep your full convertible if your hardtop is in good shape.

troutbum_mt · Aug 23, 2008

Wasatch K5 said:
Warren,

I know you have a lot of enthusiasm for this project, and that's great, but that rust is massive!

I really believe you'll be way ahead in the end to find a donor vehicle and combine the two. I think it will be substantially cheaper, be completed much faster, and be a more enjoyable project for you.

<snipped a bunch of wise advise and good points>

I wish you the best of luck with whatever route you choose!

You made many good points but here is the problem; there is nothing around here I can get my hands on and the expense and time it would take to drive to get a donor would kill me. At 10 miles to the gallon and 1100 miles @ $4 a gallon thats $440 each way plus food and lodging along the way. Factor in the time off work and that lost income and I would be doomed.

I think I am going to start looking into having a donor shipped here through a trucking company. Would be nice to find a trucker coming back with an empty load that wanted to make a little money. Metrodps found a good source I could use (hope that isn't a typo on their site

). Might end up cashing in my vacation time and either taking a drive or having something shipped. I hate getting hit upside the head with the reality bat lmao

All of this leads me to a question though. How easily do things mate up from a 75 to say a 86 K5? I mean could I pull the engine, trans, transfer case and axles right out of the 75 and put it right into the 86? Guess I need to start another search on here lol

Thanks for all the comments people. I am slowly starting to admit the inevitable and that I am going to have to have a donor. The links and stuff people have been providing have also helped out a ton.

bp71k5 · Aug 23, 2008

Depending on how far away your going having a donor shipped tends to be pretty expensive.

If you did get aftermarket panels, you could probably get them all shipped at once to save on shipping costs. They could put them all on a bog pallet and ship them truck freight to you for probably under $200.

TREA18 · Aug 23, 2008

Hey Troutman Mt, and everyone who's been giving there suggestions. This is great I'M pretty new to this and just bought an 89' blazer and I'm contagious with this K5 DESEASE as well. I buying a 73' donor to do a convertible conversion and was wondering if it has some good body parts you might need maybe I can help you out even though I'm from Iowa. I'm not a great mechanic or body man but does any of this sound like a possibilty to help ck5'er.

k2mslskier · Aug 23, 2008

Wasatch K5 said:
Warren,

I know you have a lot of enthusiasm for this project, and that's great, but that rust is massive!

I really believe you'll be way ahead in the end to find a donor vehicle and combine the two. I think it will be substantially cheaper, be completed much faster, and be a more enjoyable project for you.

The thing about rust is that it is hard at work on the whole vehicle, not just the fenders, rocker panels, etc. I'll bet the tailgate is in bad shape as well as some of the floorpans. Also, if the various body support and cross members are bad, you'll have to replace them, too.

Something else you will run into is broken bolts. Depending on the location of the bolt this can range from a mild inconvenience to a major, major pain in the butt. Many, if not most, of the bolts on the underside of the vehicle will be rusted together so they will break before they loosen, but that's if you don't round the heads off first.

I know you're in Bozeman now, but not where you're from. The difference in body condition (rust) between a vehicle that has 33 Montana winters under its belt and one from the desert southwest is monumental.

Where does the miltary store their old aircraft? Tuxson, AZ. There are also aircraft storage facilities in Marana, AZ, Victorville, CA and near Palmdale, CA. There's a good reason for that.

I wish you the best of luck with whatever route you choose!

First of all welcome Troutbum, second of all, um Wasatch it's Tucson not Tuxson, and you're right, there are quite a bit of clean rust free parts and whole vehicles to be had down here. I'd have to agree with everyone else that is quite a lot of rust, but then again we don't get rust like that down here so any rust is a lot of rust to me.

I'm on CL everyday and we get quite a bit of k5's for sale from time to time. That one in Iowa sounds like a killer deal. If they want $200 for the body I wonder what they would want for the whole thing?

But if you come across anything down this direction I'm sure any one of the folks up around the Phoenix area and down this way, including myself of course, would be happy to help anyway we can.

troutbum_mt · Aug 23, 2008

driney said:
Have you seen this article? You don't have to limit yourself to a 73-75 donor to keep your full convertible if your hardtop is in good shape.

Very true. Am looking at an 86 body right now for $200. The only problem is that is 1100 miles away. :doah:

Have some junkyards to call tomorrow in Billings, Missoula and Butte. Hopefully they will have something. Really wouldn't mind a newer body and frame and then just swap out the good stuff from the 75 but I never get that lucky.

Wasatch K5 · Aug 23, 2008

k2mslskier,

My apologies. That's what I get for not proofreading my post first. I know better and have no excuse.

Warren,

I think if you google something like "craigslist+1973 +blazer" every craigslist listing with 1973 blazer will come up, regardless of location. I understand the frustration of driving 2,000 miles to get a body/donor vehicle, as well as the cost. I'm just offering my advice based on personal experience.

One of my other passions is FJ40 LandCruisers. Those are absolutely notorius for rust. In my search for a rust free tub I drove 750 miles round trip to Colorado and almost 1,600 miles round trip to Portland, OR to get a tub.

Both times they were wasted trips as the sellers had grossly overstated the condition of the vehicles. I ended up getting an entire rust free FJ40 from southern California.

If you make the trip into an adventure it isn't bad at all.

The last donor vehicle I bought was a 1988 Suburban with a 454 TBI engine and 14 bolt FF axle. Less than 61,000 original miles. I found it on Craigslist, flew to Ontario California and drove it back to Utah.

Beer wine and liquor in Utah is expensive, so I stocked up in California (where it is a lot cheaper). The savings on the booze probably paid for most of the gas!

Part of my concern is once you get deep into the Blazer you'll discover just how much you've bitten off and may lose interest in the project and the hobby as well. That would be a shame.

troutbum_mt · Aug 24, 2008

Wasatch K5 said:
k2mslskier,

My apologies. That's what I get for not proofreading my post first. I know better and have no excuse.

Warren,

I think if you google something like "craigslist+1973 +blazer" every craigslist listing with 1973 blazer will come up, regardless of location. I understand the frustration of driving 2,000 miles to get a body/donor vehicle, as well as the cost. I'm just offering my advice based on personal experience.

<snipped a bunch for space>

The last donor vehicle I bought was a 1988 Suburban with a 454 TBI engine and 14 bolt FF axle. Less than 61,000 original miles. I found it on Craigslist, flew to Ontario California and drove it back to Utah.

Part of my concern is once you get deep into the Blazer you'll discover just how much you've bitten off and may lose interest in the project and the hobby as well. That would be a shame.

I know what you and others are saying and I really appreciate all the advise, insights and suggestions. All of the info has really helped me refine my plans. I am currently checking on a few donor vehicles; one is a 79 here in town for $1000 and the other is an 88 about 100 miles away for $750. Found both as new listings on craigslist (thanks to all who suggested that :bow:

). Such finds present new challenges and it is starting to boggle my mind a little.

Just how interchangeable are parts and components between years? Doing some research I found that the 88 has TBI. If that engine is tired, can that be put on the 350 I have in the 75 and then use that engine? Will it mate up with that tranny? Can I swap the axles from the 75 (dana 44 and 12 bolt) and replace the 10 bolts on the 88? Seems I have a ton more research to do now but it is well worth it and I am sure I can find the info on here.

In the meantime, I am keeping myself busy with other projects. I fixed an electrical short yesterday that was draining the battery and installed some new fog lights and started prepping the top for a good sanding and painting. Plenty of things to keep me busy for sure and I hope I never get burned out. I appreciate all the advice and pointers to keep me from falling into the pitfalls. From people giving tons of very good advise to even offering to share parts, this place has been a lifesaver! Can't tell you how much I have appreciated everything. CK5 rocks!

Thanks again everyone.

Warren

Wasatch K5 · Aug 24, 2008

Warren,

My personal opinion is the '88 is the "best of breed". Here's why:

The TBI engines generally get better fuel economy and make more power than their carbureted brothers. Some of the 350's (and the few 400's) from the seventies were pretty good on the power end, but not great on fuel economy.

The '88's have the 700R4 overdrive transmission (as do many other years), but GM made a bunch of improvements in the 700R4 for the '88 and beyond production years.

I think that in 1988 you also got the NP 241 transfer case. Admittedly, not as good as the NP 205, but better than the 208.

Personally I prefer the 85-88 grille and front end styling over other second generation years.

As far as parts interchangeability I think the '79's front end sheetmetal is the same as your '75. I think the dash pad is the same also. Those are different on the '88.

In terms of the axles, I would say that a Dana 44 is pretty equal to a GM 10 bolt. The 12 bolt is a little better than a 10 bolt, but I wouldn't go to the trouble of swapping them out unless the 10 bolt's gearing was less desirable.

troutbum_mt · Aug 25, 2008

Wasatch K5 said:
Warren,

My personal opinion is the '88 is the "best of breed". Here's why:

The TBI engines generally get better fuel economy and make more power than their carbureted brothers. Some of the 350's (and the few 400's) from the seventies were pretty good on the power end, but not great on fuel economy.

The '88's have the 700R4 overdrive transmission (as do many other years), but GM made a bunch of improvements in the 700R4 for the '88 and beyond production years.

I think that in 1988 you also got the NP 241 transfer case. Admittedly, not as good as the NP 205, but better than the 208.

Personally I prefer the 85-88 grille and front end styling over other second generation years.

As far as parts interchangeability I think the '79's front end sheetmetal is the same as your '75. I think the dash pad is the same also. Those are different on the '88.

In terms of the axles, I would say that a Dana 44 is pretty equal to a GM 10 bolt. The 12 bolt is a little better than a 10 bolt, but I wouldn't go to the trouble of swapping them out unless the 10 bolt's gearing was less desirable.

I agree, that body style is really nice. TBI would be nice for sure because 10 mpg sucks. Too bad none of these people are answering my requests for more info on craigslist lol. Really appreciate all the info. Want to get this project moving but have been keeping busy tracking down electrical shorts, etc and trying to figure out what is grounding out and draining the battery. Still prepping the top for new paint too. Lots of sanding and silicone yet to be done.

Thanks again.

Warren

Wasatch K5 · Aug 25, 2008

Warren,

I totally sympathize about Craigslist. This spring I was looking for a 70 HP outboard engine and I wanted a nice (freshwater use only) Evinrude or Johnson. I literally emailed, and called people, from Seattle to Portland, ME, and as far south as Nashville to Los Angeles (and a heck of a lot in between).

One would think that if they listed something for sale they'd want to sell it. Well, my experience was that there are a lot of flakes out there.

I ended up getting a great motor from a guy in Wisconsin who actually returned phone calls (and emails) and sent pictures.

Hang In There....

MTChevy · Aug 25, 2008

hey warren, i wrench for a living so i might have the tools or knowlege you need! offer still stands haha

troutbum_mt · Aug 28, 2008

Wasatch K5 said:
Warren,

I totally sympathize about Craigslist. This spring I was looking for a 70 HP outboard engine and I wanted a nice (freshwater use only) Evinrude or Johnson. I literally emailed, and called people, from Seattle to Portland, ME, and as far south as Nashville to Los Angeles (and a heck of a lot in between).

One would think that if they listed something for sale they'd want to sell it. Well, my experience was that there are a lot of flakes out there.

I ended up getting a great motor from a guy in Wisconsin who actually returned phone calls (and emails) and sent pictures.

Hang In There....

I really appreciate all the advice, suggestions and tips you, MTChevy and others have given me over the last week or so. Found a donor today. The guy wanted a grand for it but dropped it down to $500 today so I jumped on it. Power windows, power locks, AC, dual batteries and a 400 ci engine. There is a lot less rust on it too. Instead of having to replace whole fenders, I will just need to fix parts of them. Interior is much nicer too. Will have pictures tomorrow when it comes home.

Thanks again for all the help and keeping me on track folks!!! Will have more questions to follow in the not so near future. Debating on whether or not to swap out the 400 for the 350 and what to do with the 75 now lol. Think it is time to sell the Mazda and keep both :haha:

Warren

Metrodps · Aug 28, 2008

driney said:
Have you seen this article? You don't have to limit yourself to a 73-75 donor to keep your full convertible if your hardtop is in good shape.

troutbum_mt said:
Very true. Am looking at an 86 body right now for $200. The only problem is that is 1100 miles away. Have some junkyards to call tomorrow in Billings, Missoula and Butte. Hopefully they will have something. Really wouldn't mind a newer body and frame and then just swap out the good stuff from the 75 but I never get that lucky.

Any new pics of the latest addition to your new family (Blazer)?

If you are going to scrap the old one keep your top and the windshield frame in case you want to make a newer on a full convert. Also keep the caps off the doors.

There is a tech article in tech section on how to convert a newer Blazer to a full vert.

troutbum_mt · Aug 28, 2008

Metrodps said:
Any new pics of the latest addition to your new family (Blazer)?

If you are going to scrap the old one keep your top and the windshield frame in case you want to make a newer on a full convert. Also keep the caps off the doors.

There is a tech article in tech section on how to convert a newer Blazer to a full vert.

I think I talked the old lady into keeping both Blazers and selling the Mazda B2600 4x4

I've been reading that article over and over again about the convert and believe me, my sawzall is itching to try it. She says I need to buy a welder now lmao. I'll have pics of the newest addition tomorrow when I pick it up and take it for a long test ride up in the mountains.

I am going to be looking to you folks for a lot of advice here in the near future. I have a ton of things I would like to do, but will be asking for input on what order things should be done. For example, I am thinking 4" of lift first, then tires, then part time conversion then cross over steering. But questions like keep the 400 ci or swap it for the 350 are bugging me. One of these blazers is going to be my daily driver and I would like to have the other one for "fun." My mind is swimming with possibilities. Somebody please throw a rope and a lot of cash!!!! :eek1:

Warren

Metrodps · Aug 29, 2008

LMAO OH yea you got the sickness brother! I know at least your old lady is in for the game. My problem is I have plenty of time but no money! Would love to do a whole lot of things to mine.

But mine is a DD (daily driver) so I have to squeeze as much mpg out of it I can. I had a parts truck once and regret selling it but I was getting the bug bad and had truggy on my mind! At least I was able to help a brother in a bind when I sold my 1989 to him.

This was mine when I first got her out of Bismark, ND

And this was her back in the spring

And this was her in June on my epic trip out west!

These have to be two of my favorite pics of the goat paths I went down! This was in SD going to a place called Annie Creek near Lead.

Ahh but I have no place to work on mine where it can sit for more than six hours. This is my garage.....

*note this is a lite picture whoring.....

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