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newbie to k5's here. thoughts on 2" lifts

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dieselmech0331

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recently bought a 89 blazer. its all stock and has a set of 31 10.5s on it. I went and did some very small trail drivin and found out quickly that it need a bit more clearance. the back end drug goin thu a few ditches and stream crossings. I was curious if anyone had just a 2 inch lift with some 33s. if so how do u like it. thanks for your help
 
I originally had a 4" and 33x12.5s on mine, really liked it for mild trail use. I don't think I'd have wanted it any lower though, would barely clear the fenders when it was flex and turning.
 
I'd do 4, 2 inch is pretty small unless u add a 1 inch ORD body lift with it.

4 inch and 33's is about perfect.
 
I still had stock drive shafts with mine, but it did include a raised steering arm. Honestly can't remember if it had a drop pitman as well or not...
 
I have no issues with 4 inch tough country and zero rate 1 inch blocks in the back old super lift springs in the front. 4-5 inch lift. You will need a raised steering arm. Tough country's might ride a bit rough. If u can swing tough country I would
 
Do you ever plan on going any bigger than 33s? If not a two inch lift with a zero rate to push out the front axle out should be all you need for 33x12.5 to fit good. Then a 3-4 inch lift Spring in the rear To Match.
 
dieselmech0331 said:
this may be a dumb question but wat do you mean by zero rate?
Click to expand...

It's a 1" block you attach to the bottom of your spring pack to get that much lift. Also known as EZ-inch. Check out ORD or DIY4x.

4" is enough to start a mild chain reaction of minor issues including brake lines and driveshaft angles. I wouldn't discourage 2" if you want to keep it mellow on 33's. You need to search your soul about whether you are going to stay that way or if you will cave and go bigger later. Might as well save time and money and go the 4" route right away if you're going to end up there anyway.

Rear shackle flip with new front springs seems to be the hot ticket right now. If you are willing to afford it, the ORD springs are awesome and they also sell the shackle flips, so you could get a "kit" from them that is meant to work together.
 
I did one for a guy he had me put 3" tough country springs and stock back springs with ord shackle flip. He had 285 bfg at's which i think are about 33"and d44/14bff . I thought it came out great his only regret was not getting the bilstein shocks. I told him I thought with a zero rate and 1" body lift he could probably fit 35's if he wanted to down the road.
 
I started out with a 2.5" Superlift and was running 31x10.50r15 BFG MT's, then went to a 4" Superlift then after awhile I added zero rates and ORD 1/2" longer front shackles. I run 315/75/16 pro comp extreme MT's.

The truck IMO still looks small.:D

So stay away from the 2" lift, trust me you will find it's not enough after awhile staring at the truck.
 
You almost have to pick your tire first, then design the truck around it.

I think nothing makes you want bigger tires more than having too much lift on your truck. IMO, 4" with 33's is getting into that territory. It's not 1987 anymore and even stock trucks are coming with 33's on them. 33's on 2" requires some trimming, but lower lifts are more functional, require less supporting mods (almost none) and easier to live with (garages, car washes, parking ramps, etc).

My advice is to keep it as low as possible and soft, soft. Don't torture yourself with stiff springs. Get your "final vision" and do it once, right.
 
CAT 245ME said:
...So stay away from the 2" lift, trust me you will find it's not enough after awhile staring at the truck.
Click to expand...

That is exactly why I like the ORD 1" Body lift and 1" Zero-Rates for an easy and very cheap 2" lift to start with. If that isn't enough then you can always add a spring or shackle lift to get the desired height.
Or get 2" to 3" spring or shackle lift, then use the 1" body lift and/or 1" Zero Rates as needed to gain more lift.
 
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I wish my 1975 K5 had a 2" lift on it instead of the 4" it came with. What are you going to do with the rig? If it's just going to be a driver, leave it low.

Martin
 
daily driver mostly but I hunt a lot and go on some very mild trails. so I think im gonna go with a 2 inch and the zero rates. and stick with 33s. thanks for all the help guys
 
I'd skip the zero rates and just get the right height springs. If you use the zero rates to move the front axle forward there is a good chance you will need a longer driveshaft.

Buying new u-bolts gets really annoying. Don't buy zero rates now to go cheap and spend $$ on u-bolts and the time to get them in when you should've just bought springs.

Consider getting 1 inch higher springs for the rear to compensate for sag if you don't like that pre-runner look.

I think the 1 inch body lift makes a big difference in tire clearance and for working under the truck.

What 33s are you considering? Wheels and tire width will have a big impact on if they rub.
 
IMO 2" lift rides the best. However, 33s with stock steelies works with no lift...
 
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