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Newish sbc 350 question

TJ1978

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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about a year ago I had installed a fresh rebuilt 350 Flat Tappet (all I could afford and in hindsight probably should have just waited to go roller.. but I digress)

... Now, the engine builder said to run 20w-50 high zinc for 500 miles then swap to 10w-30... No problem there, pretty standard. Everyone has their break-in run in suggestions. This was his, so as not to void the year warranty I am doing what he says. Warranty has since expired but I digress.

After the engine was installed I’ve put on about 200-300 miles, that is a high estimation or dead on, I really don’t know. Odometer doesn’t work, don’t care to have it work.

Since it’s been over a year and it’s the same 20w-50 high zinc oil in there since the build. Should I do that first oil change now or wait another couple hundred miles to get that first 500 miles then change it?

It’s cooling off relatively speaking for AZ and I wonder if that heavy oil in cold weather might add unneeded stress on the engine, if that’s possible.

Thanks.
 
Personally i would get the 500 miles on. Use the high zinc one more oil change and then use an zinc additive with regular oil changes or 15-40.

My 02.
 
You can run that oil in low AZ till Nov, easy. Give it a few move miles then go for it.
I use high zinc in every oil change.
 
Lots of cam failures came from Comp in the mid 2000s gave the lower zinc oils a bad rap. Once your cam seats and its broken in you can shy away from the high zinc stuff if you choose.
I mostly have flat tappet stuff and only actually put a bottle of the zinc stuff in my chevelle. I don't know why I even do that, I guess I just got scared reading about all the worry warts using the zinc additives.
Everything else with thousands of miles on it I just use regular oil.
Some will tell you not to. But I do.
 
For piece of mind I’ll keep using the high zinc oil.
I’m using this (image attached) per builders recommendation. 20w-50 is in there now, of course. He said this Lucas is fine or “brad penn” though I’m not sure it’s called that anymore.

Anyway, thanks I’ll hang tight a few more miles then change it out.

Finally drove it today after its been sitting for 2 months, in this damn AZ summer.

AFAE0F17-FA02-4732-A980-914F936412EA.jpeg
 
I ran Castrol 20W-50 in my '72 K5's 350 until the temps dipped below 20 degrees..it always started even if it was colder out,but you could tell it was thick and the engine would take about 10 seconds to show oil pressure,and you might hear a lifter complain for a few seconds..it had over 100,000 on it so it had enough clearance for thick oil...in a freshly rebuilt engine I'd use thinner oil like 10W-30 ..Diesel rated oil "may" have more zinc than regular oils,but not all do any more,they reduced the levels a lot in some brands,because newer engines don't need it..

Flat tappet engines need zinc ,the lifters & cam lobes are the most highly stressed part in the engine I've read,and after seeing so many SBC's with lifters that were "scooped out" and the cam lobes worn off,I believe it....
I feel the elimination or reduction of zinc in today's oils is just another way to ensure all "old" engines will be destroyed quicker and scrapped in favor of newer "emission friendly" ones..another kick in the nads to the classic car & truck owners..
 
FWIW, I run Amsoil. Over the years, I've posted why. If anyone is interested, I'll try to dig that post up. It was fairly long, and its been a while.
Don't need to rehash it now.
I knew that Amsoil sold a break-in oil, that had high zinc. Curious as to what it's weight was, I went to the Amsoil website. Instead of searching for "break-in oil", I got lazy and did a search for "zinc".
Turns out they have several oils with high zinc. Not sure if they are new, or what, but there are a lot of them. Pretty much whatever weight you want. The first 8 that showed up are all high zinc oils. As are some of the others.
I did see the break-in oil, and it turns out its not what you would want at this stage. It has the high zinc, but has fewer antiwear additives to help the rings and things to seat better.
Strictly short range use looks like.
The prices are high, but those are full retail. Its not hard to get a break on those if you find a dealer.
 
diesel4me said:
I ran Castrol 20W-50 in my '72 K5's 350 until the temps dipped below 20 degrees..it always started even if it was colder out,but you could tell it was thick and the engine would take about 10 seconds to show oil pressure,and you might hear a lifter complain for a few seconds..it had over 100,000 on it so it had enough clearance for thick oil...in a freshly rebuilt engine I'd use thinner oil like 10W-30 ..Diesel rated oil "may" have more zinc than regular oils,but not all do any more,they reduced the levels a lot in some brands,because newer engines don't need it..

Flat tappet engines need zinc ,the lifters & cam lobes are the most highly stressed part in the engine I've read,and after seeing so many SBC's with lifters that were "scooped out" and the cam lobes worn off,I believe it....
I feel the elimination or reduction of zinc in today's oils is just another way to ensure all "old" engines will be destroyed quicker and scrapped in favor of newer "emission friendly" ones..another kick in the nads to the classic car & truck owners..
Click to expand...
If everything is roller cam these days, and zinc doesn't matter, as an oil manufacturer, why would you add stuff into your product you don't need to?

I've listened to you say some some oddball crap over the years, but this one has to take the cake.
Pennsoil and and quaker state are out for me to take my old cars off the road.
Ridiculous.
 
Why add stuff into your product you don't need to ?--because not every engine IS a roller cam type on the roads,there are still many old vehicles and engines that need the zinc..and small engines don't have roller cams & lifters,yet people put oils designed for newer engines in them ,thinking 'this is the best stuff money can buy,much better than what was around when the engine was built"...right?...

Think about it...its not just conspiracy theory,the truth is a lot of folks don't know all that much about engine and oils,and how they have changed over time...do you think the EPA cares if your classic car's engine dies sooner ?..no,they don't..they'ed rather see old cars "banned" sooner than later.."gross polluters"..

Put full synthetic or regular oil with low or no zinc content in an old flat tappet engine and you risk wiping cam lobes & lifters out much quicker ,while many people think they were doing the "best" thing for their engine by using the most expensive stuff..

I have seen a properly broken in cam & lifters with the correct break in oil ,changed to a full synthetic and 2500 miles later,several lobes and lifters were wiped out on a '68 327 a friend worked on for a customer...since the second cam was installed, the customer now only uses diesel Rotella T and he's put several thousand miles on it since with zero issues..maybe the first cam was crap?..maybe..but this isn't the first instance I've heard of this happening..


Up until recently there was no "high zinc" oils,they finally realized there is a market for it still ,we had to use diesel rated oils and hope the slightly higher zinc content was enough--or buy a zinc additive..those who didn't due to lack of knowing better may have accelerated cam & lifter wear by not using the right oil..

The personal "zing" at the end of your post was not needed either--I may say some things you disagree with,but that doesn't make me "wrong" ...or you right...everyone is entitled to an opinion..

BTW,Penzoil & Quaker State are the two worst oils as far as being noted for having sludge issues ,I'd not choose them unless nothing else was available..both were noted for sludge build up,and I remember the incident in the 80's when Quaker State put SAE 40 in 10W-40 labeled bottles,that blew up quite a few engines here that did start in frigid weather..
 
Fordum said:
FWIW, I run Amsoil. Over the years, I've posted why. If anyone is interested, I'll try to dig that post up. It was fairly long, and its been a while.
Don't need to rehash it now.
I knew that Amsoil sold a break-in oil, that had high zinc. Curious as to what it's weight was, I went to the Amsoil website. Instead of searching for "break-in oil", I got lazy and did a search for "zinc".
Turns out they have several oils with high zinc. Not sure if they are new, or what, but there are a lot of them. Pretty much whatever weight you want. The first 8 that showed up are all high zinc oils. As are some of the others.
I did see the break-in oil, and it turns out its not what you would want at this stage. It has the high zinc, but has fewer antiwear additives to help the rings and things to seat better.
Strictly short range use looks like.
The prices are high, but those are full retail. Its not hard to get a break on those if you find a dealer.
Click to expand...

From what I gather break in oil is for the initial run at 2000 or so rpm... After that you run a high zinc heavy type oil for first 500 miles, then switch to a normal weight, like 10w-30 with high zinc (this part is arguable I gather) and go.

Oil is cheaper than an engine. So I will run high zinc oil for the duration of my ownership of this vehicle.
 
The zinc was reduced to allow the catalytic converter to survive longer.
Seem the zinc will coat the ceramic honey comb.
Kommiefornia outlawed all sb through sj ratings on engine oil.
Funny thing is you can still buy the oil it just can't say sg on the bottle.
 
diesel4me said:
Why add stuff into your product you don't need to ?--because not every engine IS a roller cam type on the roads,there are still many old vehicles and engines that need the zinc..and small engines don't have roller cams & lifters,yet people put oils designed for newer engines in them ,thinking 'this is the best stuff money can buy,much better than what was around when the engine was built"...right?...

Think about it...its not just conspiracy theory,the truth is a lot of folks don't know all that much about engine and oils,and how they have changed over time...do you think the EPA cares if your classic car's engine dies sooner ?..no,they don't..they'ed rather see old cars "banned" sooner than later.."gross polluters"..

Put full synthetic or regular oil with low or no zinc content in an old flat tappet engine and you risk wiping cam lobes & lifters out much quicker ,while many people think they were doing the "best" thing for their engine by using the most expensive stuff..

I have seen a properly broken in cam & lifters with the correct break in oil ,changed to a full synthetic and 2500 miles later,several lobes and lifters were wiped out on a '68 327 a friend worked on for a customer...since the second cam was installed, the customer now only uses diesel Rotella T and he's put several thousand miles on it since with zero issues..maybe the first cam was crap?..maybe..but this isn't the first instance I've heard of this happening..


Up until recently there was no "high zinc" oils,they finally realized there is a market for it still ,we had to use diesel rated oils and hope the slightly higher zinc content was enough--or buy a zinc additive..those who didn't due to lack of knowing better may have accelerated cam & lifter wear by not using the right oil..

The personal "zing" at the end of your post was not needed either--I may say some things you disagree with,but that doesn't make me "wrong" ...or you right...everyone is entitled to an opinion..

BTW,Penzoil & Quaker State are the two worst oils as far as being noted for having sludge issues ,I'd not choose them unless nothing else was available..both were noted for sludge build up,and I remember the incident in the 80's when Quaker State put SAE 40 in 10W-40 labeled bottles,that blew up quite a few engines here that did start in frigid weather..
Click to expand...
As I stated in my earlier post.
I put regular cheap oil in my 76 350. My 86 350 and my 93 454.
All flat tappets. All run and drive fine.
Zinc is needed for break in. Not once the cam lobes are seated and worn in.
Its a good idea, but not a golden rule that you have to have a high zinc oil.
And I didn't say you were wrong. Just that my opinion is that your opinion is ridiculous.
 
I'd still add some zinc in an old flat tappet Chevy or anything else that has them,just for added insurance,none of my vehicles have a catalitic converter so it wont hurt any to add more..the oil's sold today alone isn't enough to prevent scuffing and eventual wear on the cam lobes on older engines.,though I agree once they "wear in" they shouldn't just grind away quickly..
(Many aftermarket camshafts seem to have lobes go flat fairly fast ,possibly due to poor hardening at the factory.)

It's like leaded gasoline ,it made the valves & seats live longer--but an old engine will still run on today's ethanol fuels,just maybe not as long before a valve job will be needed..a little Marvel Mystery Oil in with the gas will help avoid that..

I've used mostly Walmart's Tech 2000 brand of diesel 15W-40 oil,and haven't had any issues,used Traveler brand from Tractor Supply too--I suppose it is made for them by one of the big oil companies like Valvoline,last I knew NAPA oil was made by them too..
 
Yes,there has been much discussion on the tractor forum about the small engines with flat tappets "not needing the zinc due to the fact they have such low valve spring loads" ...but newer Briggs & Stratton engines have had cam lobes wear off completely in low hours of use--some even have PLASTIC camshafts,not just the gear either,the entire camshaft is plastic...:screwy:
 
I wouldn't pour Quaker state in my lawn mower.

The WORST sludge producing oil out there....and I have seen more than a few bottom ends and oil pans full of sludge to prove it.
 
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