CK5
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noJeeps 2001 duramax Frank - new headlights

Are you sure you were driving right to engage a G80 properly? They don't just start working like a regular clutch type unit. You have to have steady tire spin below 35mph (depends on vehicle and tire size but I think that's what GM rates it at) to engage it.

But if you don't, we just put a Truetrak in a buddy's 4x4 E350 and he LOVES it in the snow. They were up in the mountains at a ski resort last weekend and he was telling me how good it did for them.
It doesn't need that much to engage.
You don't feel it and you barely see one tire spinning before both start spinning..
Talking from experience and mine was a 14bff
 
It doesn't need that much to engage.
You don't feel it and you barely see one tire spinning before both start spinning..
Talking from experience and mine was a 14bff

My experience is mainly with 10b and 12b versions. I managed to run one in my V8 S10 but you had to gently lock it up in the bleach box then stage it since it wouldn't lock up on demand the way a regular clutch type does.

Check your RPO sheet, it should have G80 on it if it has one. Forgot about that...
 
My experience is mainly with 10b and 12b versions. I managed to run one in my V8 S10 but you had to gently lock it up in the bleach box then stage it since it wouldn't lock up on demand the way a regular clutch type does.

Check your RPO sheet, it should have G80 on it if it has one. Forgot about that...
By the way it locks up at 100 rpm difference or 10 mph difference (2 different sources not sure which is more accurate) and unlocks past 20 mph for safety.
 
By the way it locks up at 100 rpm difference or 10 mph difference (2 different sources not sure which is more accurate) and unlocks past 20 mph for safety.

That 100rpm is about 5mph with a 33" tire if I did my math right. There was a good video from GM on then floating around a couple years ago. Lemme see if I can find it.
 
Are you sure you were driving right to engage a G80 properly? They don't just start working like a regular clutch type unit. You have to have steady tire spin below 35mph (depends on vehicle and tire size but I think that's what GM rates it at) to engage it.
Facing uphill, one wheel on ice the other on pavement, I can spin it up to 30 mph and not go anywhere. The 14bff in my Yukon had a G80 and it worked great, for what it was designed for.
 
Facing uphill, one wheel on ice the other on pavement, I can spin it up to 30 mph and not go anywhere. The 14bff in my Yukon had a G80 and it worked great, for what it was designed for.
Pretty sure it is not a g80, should engage before you feel the spin
 
The light duty G80s are always a bad choice. I don't think I've ever heard anything but bad about them. But in the HD C14 and AM axles they seem to work quite well and dependably. I've never had problems getting mine to smoothly engage with minimal speed and slippage, and yes I know it's locked, and never the bad manners I get with my Detroit locked off road C14s. My opinion would likely be very different if I tried to run that as a rock crawler, but for my almost completely on street use, I can't find any flaw.
 
They aren't aggressive enough for rock crawler duty, I had the G80 in my Yukon and eventually traded it out for a Detroit locker. I think the G80 would be just right in the duramax, or something like it.

I looked in the glove box at the RPO sticker and didn't see any G80 code.
 
In my opinion, everything about the G80 is wrong for rock crawling. But it's hard to beat for a street and/or light trail rig when housed in the C14 or larger axles. At least that's been my experience.
 
I love my g80 in the burb.

I can tell exactly when it engages. It's smooth and not jerky but after driving for a while it's pretty obvious. A g80 swap would be a upgrade in Frank. But not having one I might just put a different LS in it
 
Bit of an update, Frank has been ol' reliable, just piling on the miles without complaint and getting reasonable fuel economy, and it's in good shape, except for the steering system, both the hard parts and the hoses. In trying to replace the pitman arm, I discovered that you have to remove the steering box from the truck in order to pull the arm off. Stupid design, kinda. But this project did give me the excuse I needed to fix my air compressor and get an air hammer.

The hoses went fairly easy, and the job was made much easier by removing the inner fender liner and the aluminum intercooler tube. Actually it probably would've been impossible. Anyway, I ran out of daylight last night so I'll bleed the system today and see how much better the steering is, hopefully it's a little less distracted than it used to be, and wander a little less.
 
For what it's worth, I finally got around to replacing both of the thermostats in mine and it made a big difference. Glad I listened to you. :D
 
The power steering hose was leaking for quite some time, now I should be able to park on concrete driveways again.

27210.jpeg
 
You can remove the part of the intake that has 6.6L on it and replace it with a 2” plug to give you more noise on the cheap. Pretty sure it’s called the turbo resonator.

I would do this and keep the stock filter for reasons we’ve already been over.
Mine doesn't have a resonator...

27211.jpeg
 
So the hydroboost unit decided to take a dump while I was bleeding the system of air... :angry1: now it'll have to sit for a few weeks until I get paid again as all my spare money this paycheck has been spent. :rolleyes:
 
So the hydroboost unit decided to take a dump while I was bleeding the system of air... :angry1: now it'll have to sit for a few weeks until I get paid again as all my spare money this paycheck has been spent. :rolleyes:

That blows!
 
So, having a few health issues stemming from the truck's previous life of neglect. First off, got the brake booster fixed, and it's back on the road and running fine, finally...

Since I got it back on the road last fall, it's let out this whitish smoke at warm idle that goes away once I rev it up and put a load on it. Didn't do that before the fuel filter debacle, so after researching I decided that it was dirty injectors. After trying a few fuel additives that didn't do a thing, I pulled the fuel filter off (now that I know to lube the o-rings to prevent air leaks, I'm not scared anymore) and filled it with seafoam, let it run for a couple minutes, shut it off, let it soak, then ran the truck hard for a bit. Talk about a smoky truck! I'm certain it's never rolled coal like that in its life! But it did clear up the white smoke and it idles more smoothly and runs better and seems to get slightly better economy.

But it did reveal that it was also blowing blue smoke, which was hidden by the white smoke. I've determined that it's a cylinder with either a stuck ring (fingers crossed it's that) or a scuffed cylinder wall allowing a.) blow-by and b.) oil into the combustion chamber. There is a noticable pulse coming out the oil filler neck while it's running. Also, after nearly 2,000 miles on this oil change, it's a half quart low, which is new, the last change didn't use a drop of oil. I figure a couple changes of quality oil with a few cans of seafoam dislodged some sludge that was preventing any leaking.

Having followed this guy on youtube for a while now:


I decided I'd give restore a go. It may be snake oil, but if anything, it's cheaper than a teardown on a truck I'm trying to flip...

Here's hoping that a miracle-in-a-can works and that the motor has a stuck piston ring.
 
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