CK5
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Not a Fitech-Now a Sniper 2 and boat anchor
- Thread starter Hosalabad
- Start date
Kain
3/4 ton status
HAHAHAHAHA, northern gasket HAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Fordum is right--the most rust free square body I ever owned was one with a 250 straight six,and its leaky valve cover and side covers oiled the entire engine compartment and undersides ,that kept the sheet metal in nice condition..the fact the truck was a 2wd and stored away in winters helped a lot too..
Northern gaskets off. New Corks on.
I found the cause of the leak, whick was using studs for the valve covers. I wanted something I could locktite in and then use a knurled or locking nut on. Mr Gasket makes just The thing.
The problem is that these are made for thicker gaskets and/or thicker valve covers. When I tightened them to spec I was actually bottoming out on the threads so there was no tension on the gasket. The four pictured are seized onto the stud.
Since then I have been dealing with a misfire under load. I actually had cylinders 2 and 8 swapped on the distributor. Looking at it now I wonder how that even happened.
Burning off oil now. It's so much quieter.
Looks like one relay for the fans is still balky so I'm going to beat on that next.
I found the cause of the leak, whick was using studs for the valve covers. I wanted something I could locktite in and then use a knurled or locking nut on. Mr Gasket makes just The thing.
The problem is that these are made for thicker gaskets and/or thicker valve covers. When I tightened them to spec I was actually bottoming out on the threads so there was no tension on the gasket. The four pictured are seized onto the stud.
Since then I have been dealing with a misfire under load. I actually had cylinders 2 and 8 swapped on the distributor. Looking at it now I wonder how that even happened.
Burning off oil now. It's so much quieter.
Looks like one relay for the fans is still balky so I'm going to beat on that next.
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Relays are good. Fan is dead.
Mini Windstar fan motor replacement how to:
Pull fan from truck and remove the retaining clip.
Then gently pry off the rectangular tab that connects the motor to the fan.
Then shimmy the fan blades off the motor.
Grab a 10mm and three bolts release the motor.
Pull a motor from your Windstar stockpile and reverse the steps to replace.
Mini Windstar fan motor replacement how to:
Pull fan from truck and remove the retaining clip.
Then gently pry off the rectangular tab that connects the motor to the fan.
Then shimmy the fan blades off the motor.
Grab a 10mm and three bolts release the motor.
Pull a motor from your Windstar stockpile and reverse the steps to replace.
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Sounds mucho better!
Assume you went back to just bolts?
Wonder if those were long enough that you could have used the spreader bars and maybe a washer..
Back to bolts for now. I have the spreaders so I think I'm going to see if I can round up all 8 studs again and put the spreaders on.
A big block can also be used to fix it. Just sayin...
No way. I'm trying to get this thing to stay out of the shop so I can work on the Falcon.
Tweaked the cruise today. It was pretty dodgy without the camper hooked up, which didn’t make any sense. I emailed support my symptoms and they came right back and suggested that the cable was loose. I added a zip tie to tighten the cable to the bracket on the throttle and one to support it in the middle at the firewall. I took it out for a test drive and it's working perfectly.
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Moved my compressor to an ammo can. Probably going to add a pressure switch and a small tank. I started with Metripack, and got a bad batch of plugs. I switched to Powerpole. With their crimpers, it is fire and forget. My Viair 400p fits in a Fat 50 Cal can.
I added a short brass extension to get the coupling out of the can for the hose.
I also replaced the switch on the compressor, it was already failing. I added a plug to the stock clip on power cord, so I can take the can of of the Blazer and use it on something else.
I also caught a burned plug wire. It fell on the manifold.
Naturally the fitting failed when I unplugged it. It was freshly greased too.
Accel ceramic plug wires are trash. The plugs ends pull out, they have nothing holding them in except the crimp.
Cruise is still dodgy, now it just randomly off when driving.
I added a short brass extension to get the coupling out of the can for the hose.
I also replaced the switch on the compressor, it was already failing. I added a plug to the stock clip on power cord, so I can take the can of of the Blazer and use it on something else.
I also caught a burned plug wire. It fell on the manifold.
Naturally the fitting failed when I unplugged it. It was freshly greased too.Accel ceramic plug wires are trash. The plugs ends pull out, they have nothing holding them in except the crimp.
Cruise is still dodgy, now it just randomly off when driving.
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@Chief Brody Have you seen the Funko Pop characters for Jaws? The missus gave me a Brody and a John McClane for Vday.
Cruise is solid now. I got mad and put my brain to work one night. I spliced in a tag light on the main positive feed to the system. My symptom was a loss of power, but it wasn't a fuse. It would randomly work as much as it wouldn't. I went over the whole system, and idled the truck in the shop for a half hour, and by the time I got to the highway to test it, the cruise was dead. I ran the truck on the road, and I had dead cruise, and a lit light, so I knew where the problem started. I left it running and started checking spots with the multimeter and found that with the light lit, I had no volts at the first fuse in the system.
The splice where my ACC +12v joined the system was bad. I don't see how, I mean I could see copper touching copper, but I cut it out and replaced it and it's good now.
Next up is a half gallon air tank kit for the compressor. I impulse bought a kit from Vixen. Then got it half built to find a port that was tapped badly. So I cross shipped a new one, and returned the first one and here we are with a scrap of PEX to hook it up to my ViAir.
I took some scraps and welded up a bracket to attach the compressor to my drawer box behind the compressor.
This is momentus. My aim is bad with anything but a shotgun so usually sharpie marks, and punch marks and drill bits never wind up in the same place. I actually got this drilled out for the tank and it fit without having to egg anything out. The other three holes were already there, I swear.
Cruise is solid now. I got mad and put my brain to work one night. I spliced in a tag light on the main positive feed to the system. My symptom was a loss of power, but it wasn't a fuse. It would randomly work as much as it wouldn't. I went over the whole system, and idled the truck in the shop for a half hour, and by the time I got to the highway to test it, the cruise was dead. I ran the truck on the road, and I had dead cruise, and a lit light, so I knew where the problem started. I left it running and started checking spots with the multimeter and found that with the light lit, I had no volts at the first fuse in the system.
The splice where my ACC +12v joined the system was bad. I don't see how, I mean I could see copper touching copper, but I cut it out and replaced it and it's good now.
Next up is a half gallon air tank kit for the compressor. I impulse bought a kit from Vixen. Then got it half built to find a port that was tapped badly. So I cross shipped a new one, and returned the first one and here we are with a scrap of PEX to hook it up to my ViAir.
I took some scraps and welded up a bracket to attach the compressor to my drawer box behind the compressor.
This is momentus. My aim is bad with anything but a shotgun so usually sharpie marks, and punch marks and drill bits never wind up in the same place. I actually got this drilled out for the tank and it fit without having to egg anything out. The other three holes were already there, I swear.
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Way back in about 1980 I put a similar system on my '79 F150 with about that same sized tank. Mine was a little more elaborate with front and rear air shocks and a control panel on the dash that gave me real time monitoring of the shocks and the ability to adjust them on the fly.
Plus, with the automatic pump and tank, it was nice for airing up tires.
A good plugging kit and the onboard air, and I don't think I had to change a flat tire in 10 years.
But, having witnessed the results of both a 20# CO2 tank explosion and a large vertical air tank explosion, I put a "T" on one of the fittings of the tank and installed a pop-off type safety valve in case the pressure switch failed in the "on" position.
In 10 years, it was never needed, but I sure felt better with it on there. I want to say it was set for either 120# or 150#, but its been too long to be sure.
Just a thought.
Plus, with the automatic pump and tank, it was nice for airing up tires.
A good plugging kit and the onboard air, and I don't think I had to change a flat tire in 10 years.
But, having witnessed the results of both a 20# CO2 tank explosion and a large vertical air tank explosion, I put a "T" on one of the fittings of the tank and installed a pop-off type safety valve in case the pressure switch failed in the "on" position.
In 10 years, it was never needed, but I sure felt better with it on there. I want to say it was set for either 120# or 150#, but its been too long to be sure.
Just a thought.
Good idea, I'll look one up.
Kain
3/4 ton status
Me too that is a good idea
I stole a small victory tonight and figured out and repaired the vacuum hose to the HVAC and got the blend doors working. A/C is coming soon!
Just for fun, I looked up the Vixen tank. Its rated for 115psi working pressure, with a 180psi max rating.
Doing a search on Amazon for safety air valves showed a large number.
This one, https://www.amazon.com/Control-Devi...9587&sprefix=air+safety,aps,1062&sr=8-13&th=1
Would probably fit the bill.
Its supposed to release at 125psi +/- 3%. On the low side, that is about 121psi. Seal pressure is +/-10%, so everything should be good.
You need to see what the switch is set for, but I personally would run a 115 rated working pressure tank at about 100psi. I like a lot of safety margin. Especially if I don't remember to drain the tank all that often, and get rusty water out when I do.
Another often overlooked parameter is the cfm rating of the valve. That is how fast it can release the air at the rated pressure. The big vertical air tank that exploded had several things about it that were not right.
We bought the whole system used and did not do the checking we should have. It was working fine when we shut it down and moved it to our shop, and had been doing so for several years.
It had a safety valve, and it worked when the pressure switch failed in the on position.
When I examined the valve, it was rated at about 60cfm or so. The compressor was a large 4 cylinder 90hp unit with a 4 inch line going into the tank.
Not sure what the cfm rating of it was, but it was way the heck more than 60cfm. The poor valve did all it could do, but it could not release the air faster than the compressor could put it in, and Boom!
The valve I linked to, is rated at 116cfm, which should be way more than your pump.
You cannot get the valve pressure too close to the cutoff pressure or it will leak. They start seeping a small amount before the actual setting. The rated setting is when it goes full open.
But, if its rated at 125, and you start getting bubbles out the side at 100, send it back and make them make it good. It is stamped with both UV and NB marks, so it should be right.
Doing a search on Amazon for safety air valves showed a large number.
This one, https://www.amazon.com/Control-Devi...9587&sprefix=air+safety,aps,1062&sr=8-13&th=1
Would probably fit the bill.
Its supposed to release at 125psi +/- 3%. On the low side, that is about 121psi. Seal pressure is +/-10%, so everything should be good.
You need to see what the switch is set for, but I personally would run a 115 rated working pressure tank at about 100psi. I like a lot of safety margin. Especially if I don't remember to drain the tank all that often, and get rusty water out when I do.
Another often overlooked parameter is the cfm rating of the valve. That is how fast it can release the air at the rated pressure. The big vertical air tank that exploded had several things about it that were not right.
We bought the whole system used and did not do the checking we should have. It was working fine when we shut it down and moved it to our shop, and had been doing so for several years.
It had a safety valve, and it worked when the pressure switch failed in the on position.
When I examined the valve, it was rated at about 60cfm or so. The compressor was a large 4 cylinder 90hp unit with a 4 inch line going into the tank.
Not sure what the cfm rating of it was, but it was way the heck more than 60cfm. The poor valve did all it could do, but it could not release the air faster than the compressor could put it in, and Boom!
The valve I linked to, is rated at 116cfm, which should be way more than your pump.
You cannot get the valve pressure too close to the cutoff pressure or it will leak. They start seeping a small amount before the actual setting. The rated setting is when it goes full open.
But, if its rated at 125, and you start getting bubbles out the side at 100, send it back and make them make it good. It is stamped with both UV and NB marks, so it should be right.
Kain
3/4 ton status
did some research on my viair system and it has one of these so i am covered
