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Not impressed with Yukon shafts

I have read one suggestion about grinding the knuckles. This person recommended only grind in 2 spots just enough to clear the yoke ears. I assume his thinking was that you wouldn't loose the tight fit for the spindle.

I would have been happy if that's all he did....but he chose to vigourously filed down all 360 degrees. :eek1:
 
I just had to do mine and had to tap it through the knuckle a little to get it to fit. They were Yukons and were stamed india on the shaft. As for doing ujoints and not being able to get the C clips all the way on there are tricks to doing them and getting them to seat. if they are not all the way seated I would not put it in the car. You are just asking for trouble. (although tacking them might hold)
 
I have read one suggestion about grinding the knuckles. This person recommended only grind in 2 spots just enough to clear the yoke ears. I assume his thinking was that you wouldn't loose the tight fit for the spindle.[/quote]


This is the correct way to make them fit, I am also running Yukon shafts with longfields. My longfields went right in with no problem though. I would inquire about a new cap before going any further that is if you cant remove it without damage and maybe even talk to a machine shop about clearancing the shafts. Like u said the u-joints are expensive and the old saying "measure twice, cut once" Get it done right the first time.
 
I just got my Yukons installed in the truck yesterday. I did have to grind down the yokes a little. I might have been able to tap them in but I wanted to paint the shafts, so I ground them to clear the knuckle without scraping the paint off.

I didn't see anything stamped "India" on them. :dunno:
 
I had problems with my Yukon GM 10b shafts fitting through the knuckles too. Most of the time they would tap through but one took some good smacks to get it in and out. It doesn't matter now though, I sent those pieces of sh*t back to Yukon and got my money back. They broke as easy or easier then stock shafts so I ditched there crap.

Harley
 
I just got my Yukons installed in the truck yesterday. I did have to grind down the yokes a little. I might have been able to tap them in but I wanted to paint the shafts, so I ground them to clear the knuckle without scraping the paint off.

I didn't see anything stamped "India" on them. :dunno:

I don't think Yukon or Alloy USA shafts have their country of origin stamped on them but I'm pretty sure that both are made overseas.
 
The only shaft I know of that is made here in the states is Superior and not all of those are either IIRC. The Superior Evolution shafts are the ones that were/are. I have a set of those and everything went together pretty smoothly FWIW.
 
I know I'm straying alittle off topic, but does anyone know if Spicer shafts are made domestically (US or Canada)?
 
I don't know about the shafts, but I bought a new carrier that included shims, cover gasket and ring gear bolts. Some of it was made in the USA and other parts were made in Mexico. It actually said on the box with component was made in Mexico, but I can't remember which.

Not sure about the shafts.
 
I just warrrantied two brand new Yukons because the u-joint hole and the machined surface on the inside of the yoke were not square. I destroyed the retaining clips trying to get them in before I realised this. Took 3 days to get a hold of Yukon(Randy's R&P), but they got my address and said the replacements should be here in 4 days. I hope they aren't pissed that the shafts they are getting back got scored up when I removed the joints.

I also got Yukon made but non alloy inners and had a slight problem with fitting full circle snap rings(ordered these since I had destroyed the factory ones) into one of the shafts, but not the other.

We will see how well the new ones work when they get here.
 
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no link, but ill paste it hear if I catch it again, it was inside of a thread and the guy was complaining, he has tons of issues
 
When I actually start breaking axle shafts rather than driveshafts I am stepping up to a set of Bobby Long's CVs. Made here in the USA and they fit through the knuckle.

Dik
 
When I actually start breaking axle shafts rather than driveshafts I am stepping up to a set of Bobby Long's CVs. Made here in the USA and they fit through the knuckle.

Dik


thants my plan..but currently I have 2.5 sets of chromo shafts and I dont even wheel the buggy:doah:
 
Working the numbers from ORD for Superiors and CTMs it works out to $1698 with no tax or shipping for inners outers and joints.

So Bobby Longs are roughly $150 more than that setup. I thought they were expensive until Jason told me to crunch the numbers (Willyswanter). Once again he was right:bow:

Dik
 
It is partially because ORD rarely has the lowest prices on those kinds of parts. You could probably source the same setup off Pirate vendors or even other vendors here for less money. ORD doesn't focus on making there money off quantity of axles sales so they make there money off charging a little more to the guy who wants to buy from them.

If I am gonna drop $1200+ on Alloy D60 stuff I would gladly pay the extra money for a set of Bobby Longs. As far as I am aware the only person to break one was that Mega Titan with 54" Boggers and he only cracked there old design, he didn't destroy them.

Harley
 
If I am gonna drop $1200+ on Alloy D60 stuff I would gladly pay the extra money for a set of Bobby Longs. As far as I am aware the only person to break one was that Mega Titan with 54" Boggers and he only cracked there old design, he didn't destroy them.

Harley
Did you ever see that video with them doing front wheel drive burnouts while it had 46" mickeys and they were turning from lock to lock :eek1:
 
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