sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Ya that is pretty much what sold me on Bobby's stuff. Will I ever put that much of a hurt on em? Prolly not but I like the security
Dik
CK5
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Not impressed with Yukon shafts
- Thread starter buckmtn
- Start date
Ya that is pretty much what sold me on Bobby's stuff. Will I ever put that much of a hurt on em? Prolly not but I like the security
Dik
There are several people on Pirate that have broken the D60 birfields. Most were of the old design that has since been fixed.
Of course, anything can be broken
IMO if you are looking at aftermarket shafts and joints, Alloy USA shafts (with Longfield super joints is the best bang for the buck.
All prices are estimates from what I've seen:
Inners:~$500
Stubs: $117 each
Longfield super joints: $185 each
Full setup: ~$1200
The Yukon shafts have good bang for the buck too, but for only $10-20 more per shaft I feel Alloy USA is worth it.
The Longfield joints are one of the best out there and are a steal compared to other joints on the market.
I recently had a discussion with a popular vendor here on CK5 (that sells both Yukon and Superior shafts). I was told (and totally agree) that if the Yukon shafts are 90% of the shaft that Superior shafts are (at half the price) they are a great value.
All prices are estimates from what I've seen:
Inners:~$500
Stubs: $117 each
Longfield super joints: $185 each
Full setup: ~$1200
The Yukon shafts have good bang for the buck too, but for only $10-20 more per shaft I feel Alloy USA is worth it.
The Longfield joints are one of the best out there and are a steal compared to other joints on the market.
I recently had a discussion with a popular vendor here on CK5 (that sells both Yukon and Superior shafts). I was told (and totally agree) that if the Yukon shafts are 90% of the shaft that Superior shafts are (at half the price) they are a great value.
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I can/could barely break a spicer 60 shaft in my buggy. I have to do stupid things to get the shafts to break but I did manage to egg out the ears in a set of shafts every year.
I have switched to running yukons and spicer non greasable u joints. I hope that this setup lasts a few years before egging the ears or breaking.
Yukon/alloy USA and a decent joint and get after it.
If you are breaking that stuff then you need to stepup to D60 CVs from Bobby or Superiors and CTMs.
I have switched to running yukons and spicer non greasable u joints. I hope that this setup lasts a few years before egging the ears or breaking.
Yukon/alloy USA and a decent joint and get after it.
If you are breaking that stuff then you need to stepup to D60 CVs from Bobby or Superiors and CTMs.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
The problem is Yukon's quality control, design, material, etc are lacking on most of there axleshafts. It seems like all the good metal or something is being devoted to D60 35spl shafts and gears. All the Yukon shafts I have experience with first hand myself and through close friends have SUCKED. Eventually I would be worried about these problems in the rest of there products.
I have personally broken or twisted 5 Yukon shafts in my 10b front. My best friend snapped/twisted 2 D60 30 spl stubs, another buddy snapped/twisted 3-4 D60 spl rear shafts, another buddy snapped/twisted multiple 12b & D44 shafts, ...
Hell, a set of the brand new D60 rear shafts for one of my friends LITERALLY had metal chipped off the surface of the axle and a 3" crack in shaft. How the hell does that happen let alone get sent to a customer?
I can honestly say I believe that my stock shafts are just as strong or stronger then Yukon shafts for my front GM10b. I have had much better longevity and abuse on the stock shaft then the Yukon's ever took. My buddies D60 30 spl stubs died in 2 runs when his stock 30 spl stubs lasted 2 years.
Harley
The problem is Yukon's quality control, design, material, etc are lacking on most of there axleshafts. It seems like all the good metal or something is being devoted to D60 35spl shafts and gears. All the Yukon shafts I have experience with first hand myself and through close friends have SUCKED. Eventually I would be worried about these problems in the rest of there products.
I have personally broken or twisted 5 Yukon shafts in my 10b front. My best friend snapped/twisted 2 D60 30 spl stubs, another buddy snapped/twisted 3-4 D60 spl rear shafts, another buddy snapped/twisted multiple 12b & D44 shafts, ...
Hell, a set of the brand new D60 rear shafts for one of my friends LITERALLY had metal chipped off the surface of the axle and a 3" crack in shaft. How the hell does that happen let alone get sent to a customer?
I can honestly say I believe that my stock shafts are just as strong or stronger then Yukon shafts for my front GM10b. I have had much better longevity and abuse on the stock shaft then the Yukon's ever took. My buddies D60 30 spl stubs died in 2 runs when his stock 30 spl stubs lasted 2 years.
Harley
I went with Alloy USA because of that reputation and because the price difference was minimal.
The D60 Yukon stuff seems to be pretty good though (like you said)
Did you "seat" the yokes after pressing in the u-joints? I've seen it happen many times before on different axle and driveshafts. If the caps on the u-joints are super tight and require a lot of force to press in then it likely pulled the yokes together slightly also. You need to give the yokes a few healthy smacks to release the pressure and let them "spring back", and then sometimes press the caps in a tiny bit more. I had a set of Spicer inners with Spicer joints that I couldn't get the c-clips in until I did this, and my Yukon stubs were like this also.
I did not have to grind any on my Yukon's to get them in the knuckles, but both required a few smacks with a hammer to get them to slide in.
I recieved my Yukon stubs today, Wed April 2nd. I settled for them since the ALLOYUSA's were never going to come. I hope these damn things hold up once my rig is up and running.
