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NP 205 run Full time 4x4

As for it not happening in the real world. Assuming that you have a transfer case that has no differential in it, ( such as a 205 ), I would invite you to lock your hubs and put your transfer case in 4HI, and drive 1/4 mile down a paved road with good tires.

However, since I do not believe in tricking folks into damaging their vehicles, I sincerely ask that you do not try this.
Unless your tires slip on the pavement, in which case you need better tires, you WILL break something on your truck if you have enough horsepower. And I do not want that to happen.

J.

Want to put some money on it? I'll put $500 on a bet that I can take both my '03 2500HD (NP261, 285/75 BFG's) and my '90 K5 (NP241, 39.5" TSL's...and welded rear, Lock-right front), put them in 4-hi and drive 1/4 mile down a paved road with no issues.

I'm located in central Ohio and willing to do this anytime you want (it would only take 10 minutes total.......and would be the easiest money I ever made).

I do agree that the front and rear tires will bind some and be fighting each other when in 4wd. The simple fact is that the tires do not maintain enough traction to never slip. The idea that a truck would actually come to a stop and not be able to move under it's own power because of binding is just ridiculous. You could get some pretty bad hopping and tire chirping with mis-matched gears and tires (and I'm not talking about the irrelevant different between something like 4.10 vs. 4.11 gears or manufacturing tolerances of tires).

The stresses put on the drivetrain running 4wd "locked" on pavement are nothing as compared to the stresses that are evident when doing serious fourwheeling, such as having tires wedged in rocks and bouncing off the trail under full throttle.

By the way, did I tell you that my job is performing automotive durability testing for a living and have personally witnessed hundres of thousands of miles put on trucks while running in a 4 "lock" position???
 
Want to put some money on it? I'll put $500 on a bet that I can take both my '03 2500HD (NP261, 285/75 BFG's) and my '90 K5 (NP241, 39.5" TSL's...and welded rear, Lock-right front), put them in 4-hi and drive 1/4 mile down a paved road with no issues.

I'm located in central Ohio and willing to do this anytime you want (it would only take 10 minutes total.......and would be the easiest money I ever made).

I do agree that the front and rear tires will bind some and be fighting each other when in 4wd. The simple fact is that the tires do not maintain enough traction to never slip. The idea that a truck would actually come to a stop and not be able to move under it's own power because of binding is just ridiculous. You could get some pretty bad hopping and tire chirping with mis-matched gears and tires (and I'm not talking about the irrelevant different between something like 4.10 vs. 4.11 gears or manufacturing tolerances of tires).

The stresses put on the drivetrain running 4wd "locked" on pavement are nothing as compared to the stresses that are evident when doing serious fourwheeling, such as having tires wedged in rocks and bouncing off the trail under full throttle.

By the way, did I tell you that my job is performing automotive durability testing for a living and have personally witnessed hundres of thousands of miles put on trucks while running in a 4 "lock" position???


well, I have an NP241 in my cummins dodge. run a 205 in my crewcab. if those wheels arent slipping, it WILL bind up. same goes for ALL part time T cases.

If it doesnt slip a tire, it will either break something or grind you to a stop. to argue that fact is utterly insane. :screwy:


The stresses put on the drivetrain running 4wd "locked" on pavement are nothing as compared to the stresses that are evident when doing serious fourwheeling, such as having tires wedged in rocks and bouncing off the trail under full throttle.

thats really not comparing apples to apples. doing 50mph on pavement is a different kind of stress than slowly crawling rocks or hammering it on a soft trail.
 
Want to put some money on it? I'll put $500 on a bet that I can take both my '03 2500HD (NP261, 285/75 BFG's) and my '90 K5 (NP241, 39.5" TSL's...and welded rear, Lock-right front), put them in 4-hi and drive 1/4 mile down a paved road with no issues.

I'm located in central Ohio and willing to do this anytime you want (it would only take 10 minutes total.......and would be the easiest money I ever made).

I do agree that the front and rear tires will bind some and be fighting each other when in 4wd. The simple fact is that the tires do not maintain enough traction to never slip. The idea that a truck would actually come to a stop and not be able to move under it's own power because of binding is just ridiculous. You could get some pretty bad hopping and tire chirping with mis-matched gears and tires (and I'm not talking about the irrelevant different between something like 4.10 vs. 4.11 gears or manufacturing tolerances of tires).

The stresses put on the drivetrain running 4wd "locked" on pavement are nothing as compared to the stresses that are evident when doing serious fourwheeling, such as having tires wedged in rocks and bouncing off the trail under full throttle.

By the way, did I tell you that my job is performing automotive durability testing for a living and have personally witnessed hundres of thousands of miles put on trucks while running in a 4 "lock" position???

amen brother.haha.at least someone on here has my same opinion.as i stated earlier in the thread,i dont run 4 wheel faster than 45 mph.maybe my truck is different than yours,being a 72 and all id say it is way different.i can run 4 wheel drive on dry pavement all day if i want to.it doesnt bind much until i get more than 45 degrees out on the tires.at that point im taking a sharp corner and am only going a few mph anyway.most of my driving was done in the mountains and snowy backroads where you dont know what the next turn will be.snow,slush,runoff,ice,or dry pavement.i have also always had a 35x12.5 tire on it which is a decent size tire.also have a good running 350 that is decently powerfull.i would know it if i was having a problem i asure you.when i go to the trails,i would lock it in 4 wheel and leave it there also.the only adverse affect i get is the engine is a little sluggish in 4 wheel,but no binding.no locking up and no problem making around turns safely.do what you want with your ride and i will also.you dont have to do it my way.that is all i really have to say.to wazzabie,try it and see how it feels.every truck is going to drive different and have different characteristics when in 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive.good luck and let us know how she does.
 
Before placing in the NP 205 in the K5, I ran it with a NP 203 w/ part time kit in 4 Hi across the state during a snow storm. Some parts where patchy pavement, ice and snow. When it became all pavement I got out and turn the hubs to disengage the 4x4. It made it all the way home. A few days later when I backed up the t-case started to make a chain saw sound. It was toast and did not move. Found out I was running the fluids low on the case... not sure how much was fluids or pavement. Most likely both.
 
I'm interested in running my NP205 fulltime in 4x4 even on pavement. I know this will cause problems with binding. Any solutions out there to run a NP 205 fulltime 4x4 on pavement?


Wow, all this crap when all he asked for was a solution to binding, I don't see where he asked for everyone to give him ****, or your opinions.

some of your guys logic is retarded, if half of your logic was true, I wouldn't be able to drive my blazer with a mini spool in the back down a freeway with curves at speed cause it would bind up and blow the rear end...


read his question and leave him alone if you don't have an answer for him. :doah:

sometimes web wheelers are just plain DUMB!!! :mad:
 
Before placing in the NP 205 in the K5, I ran it with a NP 203 w/ part time kit in 4 Hi across the state during a snow storm. Some parts where patchy pavement, ice and snow. When it became all pavement I got out and turn the hubs to disengage the 4x4. It made it all the way home. A few days later when I backed up the t-case started to make a chain saw sound. It was toast and did not move. Found out I was running the fluids low on the case... not sure how much was fluids or pavement. Most likely both.
running low fluid levels on 203 because of the internal pump is probably what killed it,not running it in 4 wheel as its supposed to run in 4 wheel full time stock.it has to pump oil to the rear of the transfer case to keep that area lubricated,or it will fail.the other problem for most brakeage is its supposed to have 10w40 motor oil in their,not gear oil or atf.both will kill that transfer case and not lubricate it properly.
 
Wow, all this crap when all he asked for was a solution to binding, I don't see where he asked for everyone to give him ****, or your opinions.

some of your guys logic is retarded, if half of your logic was true, I wouldn't be able to drive my blazer with a mini spool in the back down a freeway with curves at speed cause it would bind up and blow the rear end...


read his question and leave him alone if you don't have an answer for him. :doah:

sometimes web wheelers are just plain DUMB!!! :mad:

To answer the question, there is no full time conversion for a NP 205. The only thing to do is replace it with a 203 or just deal with what you have.
 
:rolleyes: You need to fix your truck.......or quit making up stories.......seriously, the issues you describe above are no where close to what happens in the real world on a properly setup truck (ie. matching tires and gear ratios).

Wow, all this crap when all he asked for was a solution to binding, I don't see where he asked for everyone to give him ****, or your opinions.

some of your guys logic is retarded, if half of your logic was true, I wouldn't be able to drive my blazer with a mini spool in the back down a freeway with curves at speed cause it would bind up and blow the rear end...


read his question and leave him alone if you don't have an answer for him. :doah:

sometimes web wheelers are just plain DUMB!!! :mad:

Agreed!

FORDUM something is wrong with your truck 100 feet and it bound up so bad it stopped the truck? you have mis matched gears beyond 2/100. my d60 and 14b are 4.10 and 4.11 respectivly and the only time it will bind up is if I turn it to full lock and drive more than a full circle. If nothing is wrong with your truck then your claims are just flat out retarded. If what you say is true then EVERYONE who runs moab has to have a blown up and bound drivetrain(dont let the term slickrock fool you it has just as much grip as pavement). Aside from u-turns normal driving shouldnt totally bind up the drivetrain in 4wd like you are claiming. The way you made it sound driving in a straight line binds them up. And the part I dont get is that it sounds like you akin it to winding a clock then it binds up?

BLAH your talking foolish yes there is some binding but by no means should a properly functioning 4wd system bind as bad as you claim.
Im done with you now........

Someone said it was dumb to drive in 4wd on snow packed roads on flat ground........... whats this flat ground you speak of? Utah only has a few flat spots surrounded by hills mountains and rocks. I will drive in 4wd when conditions warrent it witch is several times a wnter here.

ALSO I read lots of crap talk about learning to drive. I am a professional driver, its my career, it puts food on my table. I have a completely clean driving record. IF EVERYONE, and I mean every singe person on the road drove like I do there would be no need for ABS, full time FWD or any other driving aid. But knowing (on a personal level no less) some of the idiot drivers in the world, I will use the driving aids made available to me. Not to help me drive, but to give me the extra edge to avoid the jerkoff fishtailing towards me.

And just to put it on the table I dont drive like an old lady, Im an aggressive driver. If you would like lessons on how to power slide in a semi let me know.:D
 
If it doesnt slip a tire, it will either break something or grind you to a stop. to argue that fact is utterly insane. :screwy:


thats really not comparing apples to apples. doing 50mph on pavement is a different kind of stress than slowly crawling rocks or hammering it on a soft trail.

The offer on the $500 bet is open to you also;)

You did make one correct statement regarding if a "tire doesn't slip"........but you never have 100% traction between the tire and road surface. There is always some slipping and scrubbing, and the force required to make the tires slip enough to compensate for any "binding" running in 4wd is much less than the force required to actually stall out a truck or break the average drivetrain component. Saying otherwise is the same as saying that anybody who ever tried spinning the tires on asphalt would definitely and immediately break a component. And also as mentioned above, running in 4wd down the road is the same basic theory as running a spool or welded rear diff down the road, and it's a proven fact that it can be done without grenading components.
 
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Sorry it took a while to get back, last couple of days have been a real pain.

6.2, I'm going to reply to you mainly because you are the first one on this page, and I'm too damn tired right now to make individual replies.
I'll try to answer everybody, just read through and find the part that pertains to your comment. If not satisfied, repost, and after I get some sleep I'll get back.

I agree that its possible to build a truck that has enough horsepower and strong enough drivetrain to slip just about any tire on pavement.

Bigfoot can drive over a bus too. But not all trucks can.

As for saying that the tires will always slip, well, maybe.
Since I am not used to being called a liar by some one with all their teeth, I did not tell the whole story of my truck.
Not realizing that I would have to give all particulars to prove it happened.

For the record, the truck was green. It was a 1979 model, this took place in about 1981 or so.
It was in December, because I was at my hunting camp.
And oh yeah, the reason I had just come through the bog, was because myself and three friends had been firewood hunting.
In the back of my truck was 4 or 5 lightered (sp?) stumps weighting in about 350 to 450lbs apiece plus the mud on them and what have you.
Plus some "junkbutt' logs and a couple of small pieces on the front bumper tied onto the winch.

When I hit the highway to go down and turn into the road to my camp, the truck seemed a little sluggish. I assumed that was because of the weight.
When it got down to about 10 mph or so with half to three quarter throttle, I backed off the gas.

Since it has an automatic, the truck slammed to a stop. Would it have kept going if I had floored it? Don't know. Since I did not know what was wrong, I stopped to see.
I suppose, from reading things here, the correct move was to just floor it and find out what was wrong later.
But, while I use my vehicles hard, and often ask them to do things they were never designed to do, I long ago got tired of breaking things just to see how much fun it was to fix them.
I don't mind breaking them, and have many times. But I do so because I have a reason to, not because I can.

In fact, it has always been a source of pride for me to do what I wanted WITHOUT breaking my truck.

We don't have many rocks to climb down here in Fl, its mostly deep mud and sand. When I was growing up, I had a dual rear wheel CJ5 Jeep that would go just about anywhere. Since it did not have a lot of horsepower, slow and steady won the race.

I have watched you guys climb rocks.
In most places down here, unless you had a head of steam up, spinning your wheels like you have to do there would just dig you out of sight.
Just about every year in the swamp, I have to pull some guy out with a broken axle, u-joint, or oil pan damage who thought that power and speed would win the day.
There are often stumps hidden in those holes that love to have the axle bounce over them and then get jammed up between the axle and the frame crossmember.

Chainsaws don't work under water.

As a result, I am a lot more cautious than most folks. I have a different idea of a successful trip.

Most of you folks consider a trip a success if the truck will get home under its own power.

I consider it a success if it gets home under its own power with all the parts and sheetmetal intact.

What you folks do is great, I have no problem with it, and would love to try it someday.
But I got all the "lets run something at the bog-in", drive it until it breaks, fix it and break it again, pounded out of me years ago for my own equipment.

I still go out and patch, tow, rescue my friends who haven't, and enjoy doing it.

As for your bet, 6.2, I don't doubt your truck will do it. There are many that will. Not sure what would happen with a couple thousand pounds in back though.

Someone here, not going to look the post up right now, mentioned running a minispool on the street.
Perfect example of what I am talking about.

A friend of mine ran one in his F150 for a couple of years. It was an old beat up looking truck with pure magic under the hood. He won a lot of money at late night in illegal street races around the edges of town.
The only ill effect of having the spool in a daily driver, was short rear tire life.

Until one Saturday when he picked up a large amount of roofing tar for a friend's roof they were going to replace that weekend.

He got out on the highway fine, but sitting at a turn signal, he punched it when the arrow came on and made a hard right turn.

The Ford 9 inch housing basically shattered. The two inside ends of the axle tubes and axles dug into the pavement, and there he sat until the wrecker got there. Too much horsepower with nowhere to go. Tires could not slip, something had to give.

Lets see now, Balzer. I suspect that the front and rear tires on my truck were not the same size after a few thousand miles. As for the hundred foot number, sorry, didn't measure it, May have been 101 feet.
All I am saying it, unless the front and rear travel exactly the same distance per revolution, the drive train will begin to bind up. By that I mean that first all the normal 'slop' will be taken out, and then stress will begin to build up in the drivetrain.

Depending on the mismatch, it may be that the two only travel .1 inch different distances per rev.
In which case you would not notice much for a while. Or you may have street tires on the front, and 36s on the rear. ( I saw that one time, it was done because some one had slashed his front ones and he needed to drive until he could get new ones. Looked Weird)

In that case, you are going to notice it damn quick.
In either case, if the tires DO NOT SLIP, either the drive train will break, or you will reach a point where the engine can no longer drive the truck.

In my case, I had a lot of weight on the tires, and I'm not sure if my engine could have slipped them.

Oh BTW, 6.2, you said something about seeing trucks driving thousands of miles in 4 lock. I think you said it was for testing.
Think it through. You don't test anvils by hitting them with feathers. And you don't test trucks by quiet highway driving. Generally you test something by Exceeding its design specs to the point of failure so as to find the weak point.

OK, this has gotten out of hand today, I have fallen asleep twice on the keyboard, and I have to get up at 2 am in the morning. If I have failed to either answer someone's comment, or if there is someone who I have not p*ssed off sufficiently, let me know, and I will do better tomorrow

J.
 
You had a 1979 with an automatic and an NP205?

I am against driving an NP205 around in 4x4 all the time, but not because I think my truck would bind up to the point where it wouldn't move.

Martin
 
I don't recall who posted it, and I'm not gonna wade back through all that crap to find out, but x2 on the viscous coupling. If it were me, the only way I would be comfortable running a 205 in 4WD on dry pavement with the hubs locked would be with a viscous coupling.

It would probably be easier and cheaper to swap in a 203 though.
 
You had a 1979 with an automatic and an NP205?

I am against driving an NP205 around in 4x4 all the time, but not because I think my truck would bind up to the point where it wouldn't move.

Martin
Yep, it was my first experience with a slip box in an off-roader.
Up 'till then, it had all been sticks.
I figured I would not like it. Especially if I had to "rock" out of a hole. Figured I could shift between first and reverse faster than the auto.

Well, maybe I can, but I never noticed any problems. Now, its all autos, but if I were building a truck strictly for off road use, or fixing up an old Jeep, I think I would go with the manual.
Not as practical, but when you grew up stirring up gears with a stick, there is a certain nostalgia effect.

Heck, I was driving my old 1966 F600 boom truck the other day. 4 speed with a two speed rear end. I was split shifting it just for fun. Not necessary with this truck on level pavement.

Which reminds me, why has no one come up with an equivalent to a 3/4 or one ton truck rear end with an electric two speed shifter?
It seems I saw one somewhere, but I don't think it sold.

Course, there may be lots of them out there and I just never heard of them.
Imagine one of your rock crawlers with, say, 3.00-1/6.00-1 rear end. Great highway driving, and great crawling. Heck, U-Joints would last forever......

Man, I have got to get back to checking this place more often. I've got an hour's worth of reading to do after having to work for about a week.
 
You had a 1979 with an automatic and an NP205?

I am against driving an NP205 around in 4x4 all the time, but not because I think my truck would bind up to the point where it wouldn't move.

Martin

I placed in a NP205 from a 71 into a 78 K5. both are NP205-th350 setups. bolted right in with the adapter from the 71. 78 was at one time a np203 but it was toast because of low oil/ driving on pavement.
 
I placed in a NP205 from a 71 into a 78 K5. both are NP205-th350 setups. bolted right in with the adapter from the 71. 78 was at one time a np203 but it was toast because of low oil/ driving on pavement.

That's fine. I have never seen a 1979 TH350/NP205 combo (from the factory). That was all I was curious about. Not saying they don't exist, I just have never seen one, and yours was obviously not stock, seeing as you just said so.

Martin
 
Actually, I was the one who mentioned having a 1979 205 behind an automatic. It was stock. Only difference was, it was a C6 instead of a TH350<G>.

J. aka Ford...um.
 
Actually, I was the one who mentioned having a 1979 205 behind an automatic. It was stock. Only difference was, it was a C6 instead of a TH350<G>.

J. aka Ford...um.

I know you were, and now I know wehat you were talking about.

Martin
 
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