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NP203 Removal from 74 Blazer with TH350

Having trouble getting to the crossmember bolts on upper part of frame....is there a trick to this?
 
Big isn't the problem...it's like working inside an "I" beam with no room....
 
TH350 and NP203 are a little over 500Lbs as a unit

Didnt you buy a nice lift though??? just wrap that thing around it, unbolt everything, get the lift "taught" before loosening everything, then remove all bolts and lower, other wise seperate and do one at a time which is what we do and what i meant by that comment... sorry not trying to be rediculous, just tossing out my thoughts.
 
TH350 and NP203 are a little over 500Lbs as a unit
With a 2 ton engine hoist I wouldn't worry about 500lbs, but the pic you showed on th ebolts you planned on taking out, those were the middle of the 203.
The 203 is two case bolted together, you want to keep these together for now.
The adaptor is about 1" thick total.
I still think you are better off dropping the tranny and tcase down as one unit then seperate them on the floor.
It will be tight though anyway you do it, there isn't much room, once you work one them more you will start developping a sense of how to access each bolt and from where.
Or you do like I did and put a 1" or 2" body lift to give you more room to work.
I put a 3" lift on my jeep wagoneer and now I can work comfortably around everything.
:D
 
That's what I am going to do...since I can work from the top and not even have to be under it when it drops...
but, I don't know if it's just the 1973-74 thing or what, but those upper cross member bolts are just hidden inside the frame...I tried to use a "u-joint" on my socket and I still couldn't get the socket to reach in there and seat.

Would you guys use a ratcheting tiedown to drop the transmission? it's rated at 1000 lbs. I don't have any chain.
 
Yeah a ratchet strap is strong enough to do that.
As for the bolts on that cross member, forget about trying to use a ratchet, wrenches are the only thing that will fit.
That is why I have a set of ratcheting wrenches. :pimp:
That's what I am going to do...since I can work from the top and not even have to be under it when it drops...
but, I don't know if it's just the 1973-74 thing or what, but those upper cross member bolts are just hidden inside the frame...I tried to use a "u-joint" on my socket and I still couldn't get the socket to reach in there and seat.

Would you guys use a ratcheting tiedown to drop the transmission? it's rated at 1000 lbs. I don't have any chain.
 
Well if the combo is 500 or so that strap should work fine, as for the crossmember bolts I have no experiance with what your dealin with. When we come to those problems, either a grinder, air hammer, or torch introduces itself in the situation.
 
if you got cherry picker drop tranny and tcase as one threw floor pan hole you got removed.

and the 2 bolts you cant see are prob covered in oil / grease / dirt / slime on the front side of the adaptor were its a pita to see them.

the early hd crossmembers with the extra upper ears were a bit of a chalenge. try a wrench in there boxed end style and then loosen from the top of the frame rail.
 
if you got cherry picker drop tranny and tcase as one threw floor pan hole you got removed.

and the 2 bolts you cant see are prob covered in oil / grease / dirt / slime on the front side of the adaptor were its a pita to see them.

the early hd crossmembers with the extra upper ears were a bit of a chalenge. try a wrench in there boxed end style and then loosen from the top of the frame rail.


Thanks, I'll give it another shot tomorrow....I want to get this thing out and to the transmission man tomorrow.
 
Those crossmembers that had the upper mounts DO suck to get at the bolts!--some were unboltable at the main crossmember so you can leave the 2 upper parts bolted to the frame,but that way makes it harder to remove the tranny,being right in the way...I used a torch to blow the bolts off most of the time,rather than struggle for a half hour with each rusted bolt,that often would snap off or strip the head hopelessly..I've use a sawsall or a long chisel to cut them off when I had no access to torches or couldn't use them ,at the junkyard due to fire hazards..
 
Can't get Transmission lines loose

Can't get the transmission lines loose...am I turning the wrong way? I don't want to twist them up.
Got the crossmember bolts out. just need to get the kickdown and transmission lines loose.
 
Can't get the transmission lines loose...am I turning the wrong way? I don't want to twist them up.
Got the crossmember bolts out. just need to get the kickdown and transmission lines loose.
For the transmission lines, if you don't have the right tool, get a vise grip to break it lose, then you can continue with an open end.
With the vise grip, you tighten it really well and then you will not risk stripping th nut.
 
Holy Mackeral...I got it out...but that was one of the hardest things I have ever done...ever....
I still got the torque convertor on there...can't figure out how to remove it.

It wasn't pretty...I was using the hoist from above and the floor jack below...and that freaky cross member got stuck...I spent 2 hours trying to get it out from between the frames...

Then when I let off the jack, the rear lowered but I still couldn't get the transmission off...hope I didn't ruin anything...I jacked it back up straight and put the floor jack on the transfer case...then I pulled it towards the back wheels real hard and the transmission fell off the torque convertor.

I pulled it out from under the truck with my hands and then used the hoist to get it in the back of my DD. Man that thing is heavy and big with the transfer case on it...I drained it and still got about a gallon of red fluid on the floor.


I need to get that torque convertor off.....

HOOD01DSC_0002.JPG

HOOD02DSC_0003.JPG

HOOD03DSC_0004.JPG
 
SHould be 3 bolts through the flywheel holding the torque converter on.
 
easy roll motor to get to each one on the bottom side. just to ether side of the oil pan . best if pull starter and use that area to get at the 3 bolts.
 
ur motor shouldnt be too hard to turn flywheel by hand to get each bolt towards the bottom, I know my 305 was easy, but we needed 3 people when i put the new motor in.
 

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