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NV 4500 conversion

TreeFarm said:
That kit is not the best way to go about it as it involves cutting the output shaft on the trans meaning you can never go back without a full rebuild and new shaft.

NWF sells an adapter plate that converts fig 8 to round 6 patter. They have it for small bore or large bore cases. Either way you need a long 32spline input to match the nv4500. The small bore case uses an adapter bearing and 5mm spacer to make it work with the large bore input. That adapter bearing is a regular old np241 Input bearing so no worry about it being able to hold up. You need the 5mm spacer aince the bearing is thinner.

All of this adapting will cost you a ton more than just buying the correct 6 bolt t case. I know. I just bought one after figuring all of this out. Toss a wanted ad out for 400 and someone will sell you a t case. You will spend way more than that adapting
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All very valid points here
 
Kay86K5 said:
Not only that, depending on what tranny you are taking out, sometimes they are the same length. I know my truck originally had a TH400, so when I swapped in the NV4500, I used the existing tranny cross-member and tranny mount in their existing holes in the frame, and with the AA adapter to bolt my original 6 bolt round that was behind the TH400 bolted to the NV4500, my driveshafts fit without modification :cool:. I know they are the same dimensions as the SM465 too. IIRC, 700r4/TH350 are different lengths though
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Depends on the year. The SM465 only matches the others if it has the long output adapter & shaft. I don't know if all 700R4/TH350 are the same, but mine was the 'standard' length.
 
I think a TH350 is a tad shorter than a 700R4,the short tailed TH350's used in cars can be used in a 4x4 if you buy a spacer, and cut some of the output shaft off,so it'll end up being equal in length as a 700R4..
 
@campfire where did you lay your holes out from to drill for the 465 bell and how deep did you drill ???
 
Chevk587 said:
@campfire where did you lay your holes out from to drill for the 465 bell and how deep did you drill ???
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I installed the SM465 bell housing, clocked it to a happy position, and then scribed through the holes in the bell housing so I knew where to drill. Then I removed the bell housing and drilled through until I hit daylight on the other side of the flange. I did clock it 1/4" so the "far" hole didn't come too close to one of the original NV4500 holes. I drilled mine at the wrong size for my tap and then wound up drilling them again one size larger than the SM465 holes. With the larger holes it removed a small amount of material from the side of the case. No problems caused, but I think the smaller holes didn't have that problem.

Look through my NV4500 tech thread for pictures of a different guy doing it this way, and look through my Blazer thread for pictures of how I did it.
 
I used these dimensions to drill my case to match the SM465 pattern. I had the luxury of a fully disassembled trans and the use of a mill to mod mine with. It worked out great. There’s more pics in my build thread.

I put threaded studs in the trans case and I ended up intentionally going oversize and using a thread reducing insert in the one hole that overlaps to securely hold the stud. Sounds like @campfire clocked his pattern to avoid having to do that.

23F555FD-F83F-4A5F-8A93-8E8E9E043201.jpeg

64351E83-EC57-4C51-9658-B436B63CEF29.jpeg
 
LNielson said:
I used these dimensions to drill my case to match the SM465 pattern. I had the luxury of a fully disassembled trans and the use of a mill to mod mine with. It worked out great. There’s more pics in my build thread.

I put threaded studs in the trans case and I ended up intentionally going oversize and using a thread reducing insert in the one hole that overlaps to securely hold the stud. Sounds like @campfire clocked his pattern to avoid having to do that.

View attachment 274555

View attachment 274554
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Interesting. That's exactly why I clocked mine. I didn't get an overall picture, but here is where I drilled my troublesome hole. The holes didn't touch when I was done. I could have clocked it further but I didn't want to throw off the shifter placement. It turned out minor enough that I forget it's clocked. If you clocked it far enough you could run into the same issue on the opposite hole.


imgp0707-jpg.192093


https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-green-grendel.322496/page-3#post-3591375

I also didn't remember that the other lower hole is ~1/8" off from matching the upper holes. Of course, I was eyeballing it with a hand drill and didn't take any real measurements. So maybe I never even noticed it. :rolleyes:
 
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I’m a machinist so yes I have the tools just curious how you guys did it . The drawing is awesome thanks for posting @LNielson
 
campfire said:
Interesting. That's exactly why I clocked mine. I didn't get an overall picture, but here is where I drilled my troublesome hole. The holes didn't touch when I was done. I could have clocked it further but I didn't want to throw off the shifter placement. It turned out minor enough that I forget it's clocked. If you clocked it far enough you could run into the same issue on the opposite
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You could run into trouble if you clock that pattern too far as one of the top holes will be biting into the sidewalk of the case more. Both of the top holes bite into the case walls an equal amount, and it is just a touch on both sides, with the pattern square to the case like i drilled mine.

Rocking the AA bell or a factory NV4500 bell is certainly an attractive alternative if you have one available.
 
LNielson said:
You could run into trouble if you clock that pattern too far as one of the top holes will be biting into the sidewalk of the case more. Both of the top holes bite into the case walls an equal amount, and it is just a touch on both sides, with the pattern square to the case like i drilled mine.
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Yeah, you're right. That would cause a problem sooner than the hole placement. With mine clocked I'm biting harder into the case wall on the upper left hole, and missing the wall on the upper right hole.
 
Well I’m glad you guys are able to remember so much I’m really close to having all the parts , I have the pedals both Bell housings lol . Right now I’m debating on how I’m gonna get this doubler on and who to go with . There’s a lot of options out there , lowmAx 205
And so on seems like no matter how you look at it your in it for $1200’up to $2000 it’s driving me crazy lol.
 
Kay86K5 said:
My incapable and cheap ass just used the NV4500 external bell housing and adapted the hydro lines together with a $5 adapter ;)
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My incapable self bought a $40 slave for a 1999 Silverado with the special quick connector. Then I looked into adapters and got confused. So I looked for a 6MM-1/4" compression fitting (to splice the line directly) and got stumped again. Then I turned around and bought a $70 slave for a 2004 GTO, with an M10 bubble flare connector. Adapted that to M12 and used the factory square body line.

Any of these methods can work, I just managed to bungle up 2 of them. :rolleyes:

This is all for the NV3500, not the NV4500. But bungling things seems to be my niche. :haha:
 
SO, I've got no doubler or reduction, but was looking hard at the ecobox and reviews. While do that, most of the upset customers on the interwebz were do to their cable shifters.
 
You could argue this for days.

My ord doubler and levers are the shit. I had to drill my 203 face to mount it to the 4500 but ord has the doubler figured out. Why do you need so many options for clocking? You dont if it's going in a gm. flat is pretty much where its at.

I prefer levers to cables and I guess that's preference.
 
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