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NV 4500 conversion

I have a hydroboost pedal assembly for sale.

What's wrong with that bellhousing?
 
I have a hydro clutch SM465 bell housing, if that's what you're looking for. I think I sold or scrapped everything else.
Yes that’s what I’m after the one that came with it bolts up I thought it didn’t ?
 
Yes that’s what I’m after the one that came with it bolts up I thought it didn’t ?

The bell housing that came with it will bolt up to any standard-pattern GM engine. The external clutch slave will be sitting between your starter and your front driveshaft, but if you have enough lift this shouldn't be a problem. Check the bore/stroke, but I think you can buy a standard GMT400 slave cylinder and drive it with the stock squarebody master cylinder just by adapting the two lines together.

I avoided this because I wanted to use as many stock parts as possible, and my stock-height truck doesn't have enough driveshaft clearance. Plus my direct-drive 28V military diesel starter motor was oversized anyways. :rolleyes:
 
Man i love my nv4500... i have done 5000 rpm clutch dumps with boggers and even my 46” ag tires... I keep breaking dana 60 axles i wonder why???

Anyway I have had great luck with the trans. Only downfall is in deep mud it will jam up my internal slave cylinder and make the clutch slip. Wish I would have went with the earlier model.

I have a complete 2wd nv 4500 under my workbench I bought for 400 Just in case i need it. I might part with the bellhousing if you need it.
 
@Chevk587, I tried replying to your question, but the forum cut me off. So I'm posting it here. It's more or less what I already said above.

When I did this, I started with the stock NV4500 bell housing, but ultimately chose to use the SM465 bell housing. Either can work fine. It's just a question of whether you want to splice clutch lines or stick with the stock configuration. How much lift do you have? Have you carefully measured to make sure your front driveshaft won't be smashing into the exposed clutch slave? I knew on my truck it wasn't even close to working, so my choice was easy. But I'm at stock height. If you have the clearance, it's really just a question of preference. Be sure to measure out how much room your starter will have. I found the slave to be a hindrance (but not a deal-breaker) when changing out starter motors, back when I owned a stock NV4500 truck. Otherwise I don't think the NV4500 bell housing has any downsides.

Adapting to the SM465 housing is as simple as drilling & tapping 4 holes, but it forces you to attach the bell housing from inside. So you can't set up or test the clutch before installing the tranny. It goes on together, like a tranny with an integrated bell housing. Not a big deal, but it is a downside to the SM465 bell housing.


So go measure out your driveshaft clearance, that's the only thing that can cause an actual problem. If you still can't decide, I have a coin you can flip.
 
The bell housing that came with it will bolt up to any standard-pattern GM engine. The external clutch slave will be sitting between your starter and your front driveshaft, but if you have enough lift this shouldn't be a problem. Check the bore/stroke, but I think you can buy a standard GMT400 slave cylinder and drive it with the stock squarebody master cylinder just by adapting the two lines together.

I avoided this because I wanted to use as many stock parts as possible, and my stock-height truck doesn't have enough driveshaft clearance. Plus my direct-drive
@Chevk587, I tried replying to your question, but the forum cut me off. So I'm posting it here. It's more or less what I already said above.

When I did this, I started with the stock NV4500 bell housing, but ultimately chose to use the SM465 bell housing. Either can work fine. It's just a question of whether you want to splice clutch lines or stick with the stock configuration. How much lift do you have? Have you carefully measured to make sure your front driveshaft won't be smashing into the exposed clutch slave? I knew on my truck it wasn't even close to working, so my choice was easy. But I'm at stock height. If you have the clearance, it's really just a question of preference. Be sure to measure out how much room your starter will have. I found the slave to be a hindrance (but not a deal-breaker) when changing out starter motors, back when I owned a stock NV4500 truck. Otherwise I don't think the NV4500 bell housing has any downsides.

Adapting to the SM465 housing is as simple as drilling & tapping 4 holes, but it forces you to attach the bell housing from inside. So you can't set up or test the clutch before installing the tranny. It goes on together, like a tranny with an integrated bell housing. Not a big deal, but it is a downside to the SM465 bell housing.


So go measure out your driveshaft clearance, that's the only thing that can cause an actual problem. If you still can't decide, I have a coin you can flip.
 
I’m not sure exactly what the clearance will be . I have a 4” spring lift 2”body what’s in the truck now is 700r4 with the 208 I’m not exactly sure what the clearances will be that’s why I’m asking any how I think running the sm465 bell housing is gonna be best for me if you have one and would like to sell I’d appreciate it thanks .
 
I’m not sure exactly what the clearance will be . I have a 4” spring lift 2”body what’s in the truck now is 700r4 with the 208 I’m not exactly sure what the clearances will be that’s why I’m asking any how I think running the sm465 bell housing is gonna be best for me if you have one and would like to sell I’d appreciate it thanks .

I bet with that lift you could easily run the NV4500 bell. Both ways work, I’d say go with whichever bell is easier to get your hands on.
 
I’m not sure exactly what the clearance will be . I have a 4” spring lift 2”body what’s in the truck now is 700r4 with the 208 I’m not exactly sure what the clearances will be that’s why I’m asking any how I think running the sm465 bell housing is gonna be best for me if you have one and would like to sell I’d appreciate it thanks .

Yes, I have one. PM Sent.
 
What’s the best version of the 205 to bolt on the back of this 4500 ?
 
What’s the best version of the 205 to bolt on the back of this 4500 ?

6-bolt round 32-spline input is the best. With that case you can either swap out the factory long 32-spline input for a short 32-spline input (can buy from ORD) and bolt the t-case directly to the back of the NV4500 tail housing, or leave the long 32-spline input in it and order up an Advance Adapters "spacer" for it and be done (that's the route I took...it's a nice piece, easy to work with, and just about as much money as swapping inputs).

IIRC the figure 8 bolt pattern 205 can be made to work, but obviously needs to be 32-spline and you for sure need the special adapter that I'm pretty sure AA makes that goes from 6 bolt round to figure 8 bolt
 
Honestly, in some cases a 32 spline 241 is even easier to bolt to the back of these (or a 27-spline 241 and just swap out the input to a 32 spline version). In that case it will literally just bolt to the back of the NV4500, you keep your driver side drop (if you get a case out of a square) and more than likely you can use your stock t-case shifter too (depending on what tranny you are replacing).

There are quite a few options that aren't that bad
 
I did the NV4500 swap from a 465 and I literally just swapped my 208 from the 465 to the 4500. Easy peasy
 
NWF has a 8 bolt to 6 bolt adapter for a few hundred you can use any 205 and just swap the Inputs. It’s conaiderably more expensive than buying a round pattern case but they are getting hard to find.
 
Yeah, Kris at NWF is a Advance Adapters dealer, so you can buy pretty much anything through him.

That fig 8 to 6 bolt adapter is pretty cool too. Like @TreeFarm said, would just need to swap inputs (as IIRC most all fig 8 205's were either 27 or 10 spline cases) and you are good to go. I also agree with @TreeFarm that sometimes its easier to just source a 6 bolt round 205, but sometimes you have the cards that are dealt you...nice to know you can use many cases.

So in all reality, any NP205 (fig 8 or 6 round) you can make work on the back with either an adapter or an input swap or both, and any NP208 or NP241 that were 32 spline input versions will bolt to the back too (again, if you have a 27 spline version, can swap inputs, would probably just need rebuild kit with the new input too).

Not only that, depending on what tranny you are taking out, sometimes they are the same length. I know my truck originally had a TH400, so when I swapped in the NV4500, I used the existing tranny cross-member and tranny mount in their existing holes in the frame, and with the AA adapter to bolt my original 6 bolt round that was behind the TH400 bolted to the NV4500, my driveshafts fit without modification :cool:. I know they are the same dimensions as the SM465 too. IIRC, 700r4/TH350 are different lengths though
 
I know they are selling it cheaper than advanced lol
That kit is not the best way to go about it as it involves cutting the output shaft on the trans meaning you can never go back without a full rebuild and new shaft.

NWF sells an adapter plate that converts fig 8 to round 6 patter. They have it for small bore or large bore cases. Either way you need a long 32spline input to match the nv4500. The small bore case uses an adapter bearing and 5mm spacer to make it work with the large bore input. That adapter bearing is a regular old np241 Input bearing so no worry about it being able to hold up. You need the 5mm spacer aince the bearing is thinner.

All of this adapting will cost you a ton more than just buying the correct 6 bolt t case. I know. I just bought one after figuring all of this out. Toss a wanted ad out for 400 and someone will sell you a t case. You will spend way more than that adapting
 

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