what are your rough driveshaft length measurements?
CK5
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NV4500/203/205 install *updated 10/06* Done!!
- Thread starter tRustyK5
- Start date
Roughly 33" and 39" at ride height...
Rene
Rene
Did all my vent lines today. I used a 25' coil of 1/4" airline and some 'T's I found in the help section. The vent starts at the 14 bolt rear, up to a 'T' on the 205, to a 'T' for the 203, to a 'T' for the NV4500 and terminates in the engine compartment.
I need to add a couple of clamps here and there, and make a mount for some sort of inline filter on the firewall. I'll also run the same line up to the filter from the D60 front.
Rene
I need to add a couple of clamps here and there, and make a mount for some sort of inline filter on the firewall. I'll also run the same line up to the filter from the D60 front.
Rene
NoReGrEtS
1/2 ton status
any updates today?
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Amsoil MTG is rated for use in NV4500's and is ALOT cheaper then $29 a liter/quart. I have 5 quarts in the mail for my Dodge's NV4500 and 5 quarts in the mail for Therobzilla's NV4500.
The Amsoil MTG is roughly 1/3 the price of what the stealer is raping you for.
Harley
The Amsoil MTG is roughly 1/3 the price of what the stealer is raping you for.
Harley
chevyguybc
1/2 ton status
I was told the vent lines are for disapating heat rene. Im not sure if they came from the factory for that reason.. but you have all your components running out a 1/4 inch lines... if i were to do it id do 1/2 inch, although after thinkin about it... id keep them all seperatelet me know why ya decided to route them like that and maybe I will do the same..
btw, love those shifters
Hossbaby50 said:
That could be, but from what i read it was still unclear and after the time and money I spent rebuilding it I wasn't about to take the chance...
Rene
chevyguybc said:
let me know why ya decided to route them like that and maybe I will do the same..
btw, love those shifters
The vent lines are for thermal expansion. As the tranny, T-case, diff or whatever heat up the air inside expands. Without a vent it would build up pressure and puke lube out through the seals. 1/8" line would be enough to be honest...in fact the vent hole for the 205 is probably closer to 1/16" diameter. No need for a massive line like 1/2".
I ran them together so I could use one common venting location as high up the firewall as possible. This will keep the water out of everything if I do any deep water fording. 5 separate lines would be a bit messy IMO.
Rene
NoReGrEtS said:
Not really, Thanksgiving here today so we had family over and a big dinner. I am relocating the front shackle hangers tomorrow though, then probably onto the sheet metal work inside the truck. After that...not sure. I'm waiting for parts.
Rene
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
I was going to make the same suggestion about using Amsoil also, but guess I am too late.
Also, is the GM Synromesh fluid a GL4 or GL5 rated fluid? I've heard good stuff about it.... Althought it is too late now.
Also, is the GM Synromesh fluid a GL4 or GL5 rated fluid? I've heard good stuff about it.... Althought it is too late now.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Thats tight. I like the combined vent too.
Emmettology 101 said:I was going to make the same suggestion about using Amsoil also, but guess I am too late.
Also, is the GM Synromesh fluid a GL4 or GL5 rated fluid? I've heard good stuff about it.... Althought it is too late now.
The GM gear lube is GL4. Re-badged Castrol Syntorq. From what I've read the EP additives in GL5 are corrosive to the metals in the NV4500's synchro's and could damage the wierd lining stuff on the synchro's.
Rene
I guess I never posted anymore about this. If anyone cares i did get all the parts I needed in, most important was the drivelines from South Bay. the 1410/1410 long travel front worked beautifully, the shorter 1410/1410 rear vibed like crazy.
I ended up rotating the pinion up on the 14 which decreased the angles a fair bit and at least made it driveable...but I still had some vibe issues. I ended up buying a CV head from NWF but never got around to getting swapped.
The alcan springs rode really nice, but the truck handled like a complete pig. It had the most horrible body sway/lean i've ever dealt with. Brake dive was another big issue. It honestly felt like I was driving a linked monster truck...and as if that wasn't bad enough the lateral instability of springs that soft triggered some major death wobble.
the NV4500 I was pretty happy with, but it appears that the one synchro that looked awesome and didn't get replaced wasn't as good as it looked. I had to shift a little slower on the 2-3 shift than any other shift, or you could feel a very slight grind. Maybe it just needs to wear in a bit...I only got to put about 400 miles on it before I parked the truck.
I still have the entire drivetrain in my shed. Still contemplating how much will get used in my '90 Blazer I have now.
Rene
I ended up rotating the pinion up on the 14 which decreased the angles a fair bit and at least made it driveable...but I still had some vibe issues. I ended up buying a CV head from NWF but never got around to getting swapped.
The alcan springs rode really nice, but the truck handled like a complete pig. It had the most horrible body sway/lean i've ever dealt with. Brake dive was another big issue. It honestly felt like I was driving a linked monster truck...and as if that wasn't bad enough the lateral instability of springs that soft triggered some major death wobble.
the NV4500 I was pretty happy with, but it appears that the one synchro that looked awesome and didn't get replaced wasn't as good as it looked. I had to shift a little slower on the 2-3 shift than any other shift, or you could feel a very slight grind.
Maybe it just needs to wear in a bit...I only got to put about 400 miles on it before I parked the truck. I still have the entire drivetrain in my shed. Still contemplating how much will get used in my '90 Blazer I have now.
Rene
72blazerguy
3/4 ton status
feeling a little nostalgic today?
LOL, Wes (ThatK30guy) was trying to find that thread earlier. So i found it for him. Then when I read through it i realized I never posted any follow up...
Rene
Rene
72blazerguy
3/4 ton status
I read the other thread after posting that. 
Was the super soft springs the end of that rig? I only read the last few pages, but you mention that you only put a few hundred miles on the new new tranny/doubler set up.
With a TH350/203/205, my drive shafts ending up being within 3/4" of each other. 32.75" and 33.5", interesting....
Was the super soft springs the end of that rig? I only read the last few pages, but you mention that you only put a few hundred miles on the new new tranny/doubler set up.
With a TH350/203/205, my drive shafts ending up being within 3/4" of each other. 32.75" and 33.5", interesting....
The end came in 2001, it just took me til '07 to accept the fact. The timeline went like this:
Got rear ended really hard in '01 by a drunk driver in Oregon. Drove it home but it had a fair bit of damage.
Fixed it as best i could, but never put it on a frame machine. Seemed OK, but I didn't have a really good flat spot anywhere to do a good evaluation.
Added cage, and went full vert. This didn't help as the truck wasn't very 'true'.
The reallllly soft Alcan's made it pretty much unstreetable. i've never driven something so spooky before or since. parked/stored it out of frustration.
We bought a new house, and it has a wonderful carport that is very flat and level. I eventually brought home the Jimmy and on that very flat surface I could see exactly how twisted the truck really was. That was the last nail in the coffin. The frame was quite bent... I yanked all the drivetrain.
It would have made a great RTI ramp queen though. One thing I did get to do before it got parked was flex it out using a forklift at work. I got nervous when there was 51" under the rear tire with the other three still touching.
I still had a bit of shock travel left too.
Then last year I picked up my '90 Blazer. For obvious reasons I'm being a lot more conservative with this one.
Rene
Got rear ended really hard in '01 by a drunk driver in Oregon. Drove it home but it had a fair bit of damage.
Fixed it as best i could, but never put it on a frame machine. Seemed OK, but I didn't have a really good flat spot anywhere to do a good evaluation.
Added cage, and went full vert. This didn't help as the truck wasn't very 'true'.
The reallllly soft Alcan's made it pretty much unstreetable. i've never driven something so spooky before or since. parked/stored it out of frustration.
We bought a new house, and it has a wonderful carport that is very flat and level. I eventually brought home the Jimmy and on that very flat surface I could see exactly how twisted the truck really was. That was the last nail in the coffin. The frame was quite bent... I yanked all the drivetrain.
It would have made a great RTI ramp queen though. One thing I did get to do before it got parked was flex it out using a forklift at work. I got nervous when there was 51" under the rear tire with the other three still touching.
I still had a bit of shock travel left too.Then last year I picked up my '90 Blazer. For obvious reasons I'm being a lot more conservative with this one.
Rene
K5dreamer
1/2 ton status
rene - youre my hero... thank you for this thread.
the one thing that was a big eye opener for me was the info about the main shaft in the NV4500. Ive had my eye on a granny gear NV4500 for this exact same drivetrain setup (with lomax 3:1 gears in the 205) but never heard about the weaker shaft in the granny gear version of the transmission. Would you say the non-granny gear NV4500 is the better choice for reliability?
im kinda curious cuz im currently talking to a guy about a NV4500 granny gear out of a 93 gasser truck. Its 2wd but ive got the parts list to convert it to 4wd. it would suck to go through all that to get it out in the middle of nowhere and the main shaft breaks on the thing. id rather keep looking and find a non-granny gear 4wd trans if its the stronger of the two. with the doubler and the lomax gears, i think i could pass on the granny gear in favor of a stronger, more reliable transmission.
the one thing that was a big eye opener for me was the info about the main shaft in the NV4500. Ive had my eye on a granny gear NV4500 for this exact same drivetrain setup (with lomax 3:1 gears in the 205) but never heard about the weaker shaft in the granny gear version of the transmission. Would you say the non-granny gear NV4500 is the better choice for reliability?
im kinda curious cuz im currently talking to a guy about a NV4500 granny gear out of a 93 gasser truck. Its 2wd but ive got the parts list to convert it to 4wd. it would suck to go through all that to get it out in the middle of nowhere and the main shaft breaks on the thing. id rather keep looking and find a non-granny gear 4wd trans if its the stronger of the two. with the doubler and the lomax gears, i think i could pass on the granny gear in favor of a stronger, more reliable transmission.
Both versions have the "granny gear" as you call it. One is a little deeper than the other. The earlier two piece version has a 6.34:1 first gear. The later version with the one piece countershaft is 5.61:1. I doubt you would notice if you drove each version back to back...
Rene
Rene
