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nv4500 fifth gear nut(Paging Rene)

bronc3buster842001

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Pulled the fifth gear off to check the shaft. Looks pretty good. Does anyone know the torque spec for the nut.

Also made my own socket to fit.

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Repair manual calls for 270-280ft/lbs using the special tool #6743. Since you have created a lever arm that your torque wrench will have to work against I can't guarantee it is the same with your tool. Your tool looks similar and 270-280ft/lbs might be close enough.

Mike
 
yup, I recall the tq being in that neighborhood. I had to go and buy myself a 3/4" drive tq wrench specifically for that one nut tightening job. I ended up having to C-clamp the tranny to a door frame to keep it from flopping around while I was torquing the nut. I didn't have a yoke or anything for it...

See the shadow lines on the shaft where 5th gear normally sits? That's called fretting, and those are the marks that tell the tale left on the shaft. That gear has been working against the nut some, which is why it wasn't very tight anymore.

Rene
 
Technically you should replace the main shaft. It's not the nut nor the gear that really wears, it's the shaft itself. In '99 or so New Venture updated the shaft with longer threads. The problem is that the nut does not engage fully on the threads when tight. An updated shaft has threads all the way to the splines (no gap).

You can install a new gear and nut but due to the wear in the shaft it's really only a temporary fix and will eventually work it's way loose again. I haven't read your build thread so I don't know what you have for a motor in front of that thing. The 5th gear nut problem usually occurs in heavy towing applications and lugging in 5th gear. The cummins trucks had big issues with this because that motor can really lug away in 5th gear, especially with the common 3.54 gear set, not to mention the many ways to get more power out of them on the cheap. The issue was less problematic on GM's because gas motors really don't have that huge torque down low nor did the 6.5 so the user generally had to shift to a lower gear. SO, the correct thing to do would probably be replace the shaft, gear, and nut with the updated version. Since this is probably going in a K5 I might run it like it is and cross my fingers. You are way under the GVW of the NV4500, you most likely won't be towing 10k lb trailers, and that shaft is a pricey fix. one could argue big tires, incorrectly geared in 5th gear would have similar effects to a trailer though.

Hope that helps,

Mike
 
If it's going in that S10/15 I would most definitely run it as is.
 
Technically you should replace.

Going in an S10 I would probably run it. I have no experience do so of course and cannot guarantee it will work. My thinking is GVW is now 1/2 what it's rated for which equals less stress. No matter what you do to that thing I don't think you will ever achieve the stress a 500hp diesel gives it towing 10k lbs in 5th gear. Do you want to have to take it back out later down the road to repair? I guess that is what it really comes down to.

Maybe Rene has some insight.

My Nv4500 had 200k on it when I went through it. It came from behind a 2000 6.5 diesel. I had no wear on the shaft, nut nice and tight, but it also had the newer shaft.
 
Prob. just going to run it for now. Money is tight at the moment as I still have to buy a motor. Will just cross my fingers that it hold s up till I can replace the shaft. On a side note I prob wont use 5th gear much except for long distance drives.
 
That was my thought, how often do you really use 5th gear? If you buy the shaft from Quad4x4 you can practically buy another transmission for parts.....NOT CHEAP
 
That is a good price. I paid $400CAD for mine, but they wouldn't ship across border so I drove 500 miles into Canada to get it. Surprisingly the border patrol did not give me any issues. In all it probably cost $700 with fuel ($ conversion works in our favor).
 
Buddy of mine dad has a 3/4 drive torque wrench. Just have to take the tranny up there one evening.

Should I add a few ft/lbs to the setting to make up for the loss in the socket.
 
Not sure. It looks like yours is actually longer than the tool so I would think the opposite is true..you would want to subtract some due to a larger lever. the manual states that the nut was originally torqued to 300ft/lbs but lists 270-280ft/lbs to torque it. I would probably just torque to 275ft/lbs. If you found someone with the tool you could measure the difference and do the math. I'm not sure it's an exact science if you consider lack of oil on threads could change it drastically. I know the ARP head studs I ordered list torque specification for clean threads with oil? Just a thought. I think you would be ok at 275 as there is some factor of safety in there.
 

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