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ok.. help me decide if it's a draw, and if so, maybe help me chase it??

Update

It was dead again today, so I decided the most logical thing to do was chase some wire that was running directly off the positive terminal. Why I did not do this earlier, I do not know. I'm a few beers short of a 6-pack sometimes. This wire ran through the firewall and then split in 2- yes, it's like a crappy walmart speaker wire :eek1: I removed it from the positive terminal and capped it off.

One branch ran to my radio, which obviously no longer works. What I don't understand is that if that wire ran straight to the positive terminal, shouldn't the radio have been working when the engine was off??? (it did not).

The other branch ran into a rat's nest of wires which I THINK powered the aftermarket tach mounted to the dash, which hasn't worked for a long time anyway- neither has the speedo. They used to work when I bought the truck but randomly crapped out on me like 3 weeks after I bought it and frankly, I don't really do any speeding the K5 and I know when to shift so... I was too lazy to try and fix it then.

Then I jumped it and drove it around for about an hour- runs great, actually maybe better since I replaced the alternator and belts. I'm really curious to see if that was the problem. Yes, I know there are ways to actually check it but I don't have the tools and I don't techically "need" it to run so I'm using the slow-kill method :whistle:

Mainly I am posting this as a timeline for myself so that I can count days til death of power (or no death) since disconnecting that wire, but if anyone has any thoughts, that would be great.

Additionally, I would like to have a radio.. I'm wondering why the PO ran it to the battery like that- any ideas???
 
Most radios require two 12 volt sources. A bigger 12 volt wires that is constantly a 12 volt feed. That is to keep the memory (radio presets, clock, settings), and then generally a smaller 12 volt keyed wire that turns the radio on with the ignition.

Martin
 
Ok.. To that point, is there any way to skip the radio all together- a conversion that allows my phone to plug directly into the truck??? I don't care about the actual radio, my phone has an fm radio built into it, and I was already running my phone through the radio for pandora and my personal collection... So... Can I bypass the radio???
 
Yeah, you can run an amp, and get an auxiliary cable that splits into RCA cables, but you are better off to just have a radio with an auxiliary input.

Martin
 
It's cheap enough to get a radio these days with a USB port in the front. It'll charge your phone and play music (stored or pandora) right through that port. No need to reinvent the wheel, just wire it in better than the PO. You can tap right into unused ports in the fuse block (constant and switched) if the original radio power wires can not be found.

Hopefully that wire you disco'd was the source of your problem. I would start sorting through the "rats nest" and start eliminating anything the PO installed that you don't need or is broken anyways.
 
You take a look at the link I posted? Time to go down that path. Any particular questions relating to that and we can help you out
 
ratlover said:
You take a look at the link I posted? Time to go down that path. Any particular questions relating to that and we can help you out
Click to expand...

Yes, read it. I understand it sort of but there are some things I really don't get. Electric really intimidates me.

I'm at the end of a 13 hour shift so my brain has its own draw in it right now. Off this weekend so I Will try to mentally process it then
 
DOUBLE UPDATE. Insult to Injury... the disappointment continues.

Jumped it again, had a pretty decent day driving it around town... engine seems to be running rather well after installation of new alternator and new belts.

BUT. because it's mine....

Gas pedal is sticking a little. Interesting... it's probably been going on for a while since I remember thinking a while back- damn, that idle is super high, and just chalking it up to a poorly turned carb or some other such gremlin to be addressed at a future date. But no. Gas pedal is sticking.

Anyway, today was my day to drive it to a guy my boss used to completely rewire her BMW after a squirrel chewed through everything. Let him look at it, put in a kill switch if necessary.

But now... I have a brake problem that I didn't have yesterday. SERIOUSLY? I drove it to the car wash- like a mile from my house- and the brakes felt a little soft. WTF, it wasn't like that yesterday.... Then on the way home... pedal to the floor. UGH.

I don't see leaking hoses anyway.

Needless to say, this does not impress me. It seems the K5 is suicidal.:dunno:
 
spray some wd40 on the carb linkage , cable and the pedal pivot up under the dash. sounds like its time for a new master cylinder , the plunger is made of rubber and goes bad = no more brakes. also since summer is coming , here's a to do list. replace cap and rotor , spark plugs and wires, fuel pump , water pump and hoses and have the radiator rodded out.change all the fluids hit every zerk fitting with a grease gun and service wheel and spindle bearings.
 
today's order of business is a new master cylinder- thanks for the advice. If it's not the problem then at least I'm not out like 2 zillion dollars :D
 
Line wrench or six point socket. Heat them up cherry red with a torch, let them cool down, they'll come right out (replace them).

Martin
 
No. My mom helped my bleed and my dissertations on how to press pedal to firewall were not explicit enough. Still air in system. Work too much!!!!! :banghead: hopefully this week...
 
you can also gravity bleed. just open all the bleeders and let it bleed. just dont press on the the pedal and keep the master cylinder full.when you think it been long enough close the bleeders and give the pedal try. did you put on a new master cylinder? if so did you bench bleed it first?
 
77_Jimmy said:
you can also gravity bleed. just open all the bleeders and let it bleed. just dont press on the the pedal and keep the master cylinder full.when you think it been long enough close the bleeders and give the pedal try. did you put on a new master cylinder? if so did you bench bleed it first?
Click to expand...

OMG this thing has been sitting for a MONTH. That is how bad my work schedule is....

It is still not braking properly, so I was going to get some "real" help and re-bleed today.

Also want to replace the bleeder screws in the front, but there is more than one size listed:
3/8-1 3/16
3/8-1 1/4

Any idea which one is correct????
 
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