CK5
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Db Electrical Snk0002 Chevy Gmc... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004E2X3KE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I believe they are all the same
I got this one and lasted me a total of 50 starts and started skipping really bad.
I got a used one from my junkyard 6.5 and it's been great.
I would have returned it under warranty except I started it a couple of times then it went into storage, came out 2 years later, and after a few weeks it fell apart
The starter on the motor now is a 24v setup out of a CUCV. Will it work with 12v?
Idk. I’ve never tried to use a 24v starter on a 12v power source. I would imagine it will work but it would be slow. Guess you could convert your system to 24v/12v or keep it 24v. The perks of having a 24v/12v starting/battery system are more beneficial then having just a 12v. I always kept mine 24/12 because you can weld and jump start fast if needed. Also more options for electronics and spot lights. You could get the dual alternator brackets from Hillbilly Wizard.
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So, I may have a problem but I don’t care I’m happy. Lol. Bought a CUCV with D60/14B 4.56s, 6.2/400, ORD shackle flip……had to, was a good deal and he threw in a GM goodwrench 6.2 out of another truck with a banks turbo already on it!! Just got delivered from Idaho today!! I’ll have to start another thread on it, but now I have 3 motors to choose from to put in my sons truck….and I’m gonna go with this one since it already has the Banks kit on it. I’m gonna power wash and change all the gaskets since it’s out. But looking at the crossover pipe, looks like it’s been welded before and pipe is kinda rusty…..what are options for replacement crossover? I found a couple on summit racing but idk if they are the right ones. Also read that the Banks crossover is only a 2” pipe? Seems small with the stock exhaust and flange is 2 1/4”.
I wasn’t planning on replacing all the gaskets, I kinda wanna just get the motor in and drive the truck, but I can’t allow myself to drop the motor in when everything is so accessible now. lol. May end up painting the block Detroit green. I already know this is gonna hold me up a while.
Oh, and what do you guys think of the white H1 wheels. Need to find some chrome dually caps now.
Pardon Our Interruption
www.summitracing.com
Pardon Our Interruption
www.summitracing.com
I wasn’t planning on replacing all the gaskets, I kinda wanna just get the motor in and drive the truck, but I can’t allow myself to drop the motor in when everything is so accessible now. lol. May end up painting the block Detroit green. I already know this is gonna hold me up a while.
Oh, and what do you guys think of the white H1 wheels. Need to find some chrome dually caps now.
The white wheels look good on it!
This is my inspiration @78SWB,
Would be pretty cool if the dog dish caps would fit on them. But with the spacers, I don’t think the front hubs would clear the caps
started tearing down the motor today. And looks like the timing cover is leaking too. So may as well change the timing chain.
But could this still be a goodwrench block? As I pulled the HB pulley I’m seeing red paint. And around the edges of valve covers and on block. Like it was painted black over the red. Maybe it’s a red block?
Now I’m torn. I bought alpine green paint, but what do you guys think, paint it red?
But could this still be a goodwrench block? As I pulled the HB pulley I’m seeing red paint. And around the edges of valve covers and on block. Like it was painted black over the red. Maybe it’s a red block?
Now I’m torn. I bought alpine green paint, but what do you guys think, paint it red?
Well the red blocks were the first year and they also had the 1 year short injectors.
Compare to the other engine.
If they are the same then someone just painted the engine red and then someone didn't like that and painted over it black.
Definitely Detroit green!
I think so too! I decided not to paint the block. I really didn’t wanna unbolt the manifolds. After busting 2 bolts on the turbo, I decided the block looks pretty good little greasy. Kinda nostalgic. Hahaha. It’s not a show truck, just want it to be as reliable as possible.
After I get all this put back together I’ll change the oil pan gasket and install the clutch and start the install process. There’s a guy about an hour from me that made my business signs outside and he said he could make me another turbo outlet flange on his plasma table and possibly cut some copper gaskets for me too. So if anyone else needs some flanges and gaskets for banks turbo, let me know!
Another rant……who TF designed the water pump mounting system and timing cover??!! That’s ridiculous. Haha.
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Yeah that timing setup and water pump backing plate is a pain in the butt.
And the bottom of that aluminum case makes the pan seal a pain as well.
I am having trouble sealing the front, I stripped one of the bolts and I have a constant drip when it's running.
So the intake on the motor I got with the banks is an EGR. I was gonna take the J code off the old motor and use that one, but on the crank case vent tube, what do you guys usually do to block that hole? The EGR intake has a screw in plug. Do I need to try and find a rubber cap to clamp on it? Or is there a better way?
Also, does the vent tube have to go back into the banks air box to create a vacuum for the crank case? Or can I just route the hose to the bottom of the truck?
Also, does the vent tube have to go back into the banks air box to create a vacuum for the crank case? Or can I just route the hose to the bottom of the truck?
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You can buy heater hose block off caps but from my experience they just dry rot and dont last.
It doesnt look great but you could hose clamp on a short piece of heater hose and clamp a pipe plug inside it to plug it.
It doesnt look great but you could hose clamp on a short piece of heater hose and clamp a pipe plug inside it to plug it.
Hoping to get this motor in the truck tomorrow. Work has been kicking my butt. Maybe get an hour after work to mess with it everyday. But progress is better than none at all. Most of it is taking time to power wash and scrub all the parts and bolts.
Today, hoping to cleanup old bellhousing and install the new clutch and flywheel. Get the motor lifted to change the oil pan gasket and put a LP block off plate. Adding pics of the old hack job exhaust that was on it. Starts at 3” then goes down to 2.5” then idk what then back to 3”. You can see in the pics the booger welds that someone did on the crossover and the kink where the pipes connect. I may just use the crossover from the other banks kit I have and just have the exhaust shop make a new one for the CUCV when I get that one installed. I wanna get it on so I can go to O’reillys and figure out a lower radiator hose that will clear.
Today, hoping to cleanup old bellhousing and install the new clutch and flywheel. Get the motor lifted to change the oil pan gasket and put a LP block off plate. Adding pics of the old hack job exhaust that was on it. Starts at 3” then goes down to 2.5” then idk what then back to 3”. You can see in the pics the booger welds that someone did on the crossover and the kink where the pipes connect. I may just use the crossover from the other banks kit I have and just have the exhaust shop make a new one for the CUCV when I get that one installed. I wanna get it on so I can go to O’reillys and figure out a lower radiator hose that will clear.
On my old motor, I had this sensor behind the intake. Is this the same as the high idle sensor (2nd pic)? You guys think I should utilize this location to keep away from turbo exhaust?
I capped off the GP controller location with a plate. I’m assuming it’s not gonna matter to leave that unhooked if I have a manual GP switch.
I capped off the GP controller location with a plate. I’m assuming it’s not gonna matter to leave that unhooked if I have a manual GP switch.
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