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Ol’ Smokey

84 K10 wildfire survivor
Overview Gallery Discussion
k5blazerguy said:
Apparently auto parts stores don’t carry them. I may just take it apart and clean it and leave it be. Banks obviously added the port on their air box for a reason. lol. Just have to live with some oil getting back into the intake.
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Last time I got a CDR I had to buy one for something else and the hose fitting was the wrong angle but I was able to make it work.
I will try and take pictures.
I don't remember what vehicle it was for but my napa guy helped find it.
I will see if I can find a part number on it
 
Have you ever looked inside the intake port holes when the plenum is off? You can see the valve stems in the ports. Personally I feel it is necessary to keep those valve stems lubricated with the venting of the CDR valve into the intake. I know some guys don’t like to have that oily mess going inside their intake, but in reality it actually does some good with a little tiny bit of blow by. That is just my opinion as a builder. I’m sure some guys will argue with me.
 
2INSANE said:
Have you ever looked inside the intake port holes when the plenum is off? You can see the valve stems in the ports. Personally I feel it is necessary to keep those valve stems lubricated with the venting of the CDR valve into the intake. I know some guys don’t like to have that oily mess going inside their intake, but in reality it actually does some good with a little tiny bit of blow by. That is just my opinion as a builder. I’m sure some guys will argue with me.
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Yes, actually I dropped the little pin that holds the throttle shaft down the port and got to see all around it to fish out that pin yesterday. Haha.
I’ll take your word for it and try not to let it bother me anymore. Every oil change we’ll just make sure to clean the intake tubes and filter.
 
k5blazerguy said:
Yes, actually I dropped the little pin that holds the throttle shaft down the port and got to see all around it to fish out that pin yesterday. Haha.
I’ll take your word for it and try not to let it bother me anymore. Every oil change we’ll just make sure to clean the intake tubes and filter.
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10-4!

Something else I would like to share. During my many intake experiments, I once installed an enclosed filter box on my 6.5 turbo that was about the same diameter as the Banks filter box. I noticed a 300 degree increase in egts with it. So I think the banks intake box is not really big enough for these motors with a turbo. My best egt results is a wide open filter with no box and big tubing going into the mouth of the turbo. I only use the enclosed box during winter or rain storms. Just some food for thought.

Also the K&N filters do not filter the particles enough and could cause more build up in the plumbing. Potentially leading to motor damage. Spectre brand air filters are a lot better with filtering the air IMO.
 
2INSANE said:
10-4!

Something else I would like to share. During my many intake experiments, I once installed an enclosed filter box on my 6.5 turbo that was about the same diameter as the Banks filter box. I noticed a 300 degree increase in egts with it. So I think the banks intake box is not really big enough for these motors with a turbo. My best egt results is a wide open filter with no box and big tubing going into the mouth of the turbo. I only use the enclosed box during winter or rain storms. Just some food for thought.

Also the K&N filters do not filter the particles enough and could cause more build up in the plumbing. Potentially leading to motor damage. Spectre brand air filters are a lot better with filtering the air IMO.
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K&N filters work better when they're a little dirty.
I just knock of the big chunks tap it a few times and put it back
 
2INSANE said:
10-4!

Something else I would like to share. During my many intake experiments, I once installed an enclosed filter box on my 6.5 turbo that was about the same diameter as the Banks filter box. I noticed a 300 degree increase in egts with it. So I think the banks intake box is not really big enough for these motors with a turbo. My best egt results is a wide open filter with no box and big tubing going into the mouth of the turbo. I only use the enclosed box during winter or rain storms. Just some food for thought.

Also the K&N filters do not filter the particles enough and could cause more build up in the plumbing. Potentially leading to motor damage. Spectre brand air filters are a lot better with filtering the air IMO.
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I’m using the filter I got with the kit. I don’t think it’s k&n it’s a blue filter. I don’t even know what brand it is. I haven’t even researched what the part number is to get a new filter. I was such in a rush to get this truck running that I just used the one it had and cleaned it. Prob wouldn’t hurt to change it.
When you run the filter wide open, do you just put the filter by the battery tray and run the tube from there?
 
So you would want to try and keep it routed from the elements with a massive air filter and wider elbows/plumbing. A 6.5 rubber elbow might work mated to a big Spectre filter as seen in pics. An S&B filter kit would be nice too. Notice how the S&B pipe goes from small to wide? That design really helps it breath. Your Banks intake box is still good and has been proven to be very effective over the years. However new technology and testing reveals that turbos need more air by using bigger and wider filters /plumbing which reduces the EGTs 100-300 degrees which is nice.

I tried looking for a replacement filter for you but it looks like they are all currently sold out since I last bought a few in 2024.

Edit: There is another Banks intake that could work. I don’t know much about them since I’ve never owned one or researched it. It looks similar to a stock 6.5 intake but the 6.5 intake elbow expands wider at the filter box base so I would assume this other 6.2 intake still would not be as effective. Pic for details.

Something else to think about is cold air versus larger piping sucking engine bay air. My snorkel that I have on my blazer is about as wide as the banks sidewinder intake tubing. I assumed the cooler outside air would reduce the egts when using the snorkel in the winter/summer. I definitely assumed wrong. It increase the temperatures by 300°. My snorkel is just a display piece now not being used. I think larger piping with cold air would probably be the best option.

Heck I think even a OEM 6.5 intake box/elbow would be better then the Banks intake box. It would be a pita to get it work probably. Lol!

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2INSANE said:
So you would want to try and keep it routed from the elements with a massive air filter and wider elbows/plumbing. A 6.5 rubber elbow might work mated to a big Spectre filter as seen in pics. An S&B filter kit would be nice too. Notice how the S&B pipe goes from small to wide? That design really helps it breath. Your Banks intake box is still good and has been proven to be very effective over the years. However new technology and testing reveals that turbos need more air by using bigger and wider filters /plumbing which reduces the EGTs 100-300 degrees which is nice.

I tried looking for a replacement filter for you but it looks like they are all currently sold out since I last bought a few in 2024.

Edit: There is another Banks intake that could work. I don’t know much about them since I’ve never owned one or researched it. It looks similar to a stock 6.5 intake but the 6.5 intake elbow expands wider at the filter box base so I would assume this other 6.2 intake still would not be as effective. Pic for details.

Something else to think about is cold air versus larger piping sucking engine bay air. My snorkel that I have on my blazer is about as wide as the banks sidewinder intake tubing. I assumed the cooler outside air would reduce the egts when using the snorkel in the winter/summer. I definitely assumed wrong. It increase the temperatures by 300°. My snorkel is just a display piece now not being used. I think larger piping with cold air would probably be the best option.

Heck I think even a OEM 6.5 intake box/elbow would be better then the Banks intake box. It would be a pita to get it work probably. Lol!

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Thanks for the info! It’s similar to how I did the intake on my 12valve crew cab. A heat shield between the turbo and filter may help a little.

Dealing with non charging issue from alternator today almost left us stuck at the gas station. Good thing we had a hill to roll on and it’s a 4speed! Drove home watching the headlights drain the battery. Haha. Gonna check the alternator wires today and hopefully get it resolved
 
Figured it out, charging line from alternator was cut inside the wire loom. Gosh. Maybe now all the wiring in this truck is fixed? Hahahaha.

Made it to the tire shop today before they closed to get the wheels balanced. Gonna take it on a little hour long road trip to check out a 73 crew cab dodge and see how she does on the highway.

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Boost line came in the mail today so I made a bracket and finally mounted the gauges. Little needle on boost gauge looks floppy and isn’t workin may have to take it apart and see what’s up. Gonna get some black screws. The silver screws bother me. lol.

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Boost gauge fixed. Was easy, pulled face off popped needle back in and was set to zero and sprung back into place.
So next question for you guys,
Now that I can see boost, what are normal numbers everyone is getting? Normal driving maybe 2-3psi when rpm’s get high enough to shift, maybe 1 psi low rpm cruising. Mashing the pedal and giving her hell, about 7 psi. Is that normal? I thought I should be getting 10?

If turning up the fuel increases boost. I may just leave it alone. It runs pretty good and we’re not trying to make a hot rod or put more stress on the motor if we don’t have to. It would be nice to get every ounce of power but at the same time making it as reliable as possible. Just wondering what people normally get with this setup and what are the “safe” limits. Whole point of the turbo was to make more efficient to drive around our mountain town. It does sound pretty cool though. Haha.

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The banks kit does not produce big boost numbers. I usually see 7psi max when going up a 6%grade not loaded. I’ve seen videos of others getting short spikes from 10-12 psi boost which could be dangerous because of the back pressure.
 
k5blazerguy said:
Boost gauge fixed. Was easy, pulled face off popped needle back in and was set to zero and sprung back into place.
So next question for you guys,
Now that I can see boost, what are normal numbers everyone is getting? Normal driving maybe 2-3psi when rpm’s get high enough to shift, maybe 1 psi low rpm cruising. Mashing the pedal and giving her hell, about 7 psi. Is that normal? I thought I should be getting 10?

If turning up the fuel increases boost. I may just leave it alone. It runs pretty good and we’re not trying to make a hot rod or put more stress on the motor if we don’t have to. It would be nice to get every ounce of power but at the same time making it as reliable as possible. Just wondering what people normally get with this setup and what are the “safe” limits. Whole point of the turbo was to make more efficient to drive around our mountain town. It does sound pretty cool though. Haha.

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I like my ATS turbo, I get about 5psi once I am above 1200rpm and tops out at 8-9 flooring on flat. I see 10 if I push it uphill but I like good fuel mileage so I keep it gentle so I am mostly in the 5psi range
 
imiceman44 said:
I like my ATS turbo, I get about 5psi once I am above 1200rpm and tops out at 8-9 flooring on flat. I see 10 if I push it uphill but I like good fuel mileage so I keep it gentle so I am mostly in the 5psi range
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I have a 4” boost cap with a valve that I used on the Cummins to find all the leaks it used to have. I may try to make it fit sometime and see if I’m losing a lot through the intake.
 
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k5blazerguy said:
I have a 4” boost cap with a valve that I used on the Cummins to find all the leaks it used to have. I may try to make it fit sometime and see if I’m losing a lot through the intake.
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I did have a leak in my intake at first, the oring between the lower and upper intake was not in it's place and I was struggling to get 2-3 psi.
I had a little fuel leak at one of the lines coming out of the IP so I took the intake off I saw the oring off and I made sure to put it back right when I was done.
Now I have 4-5 all the time if I am not idle
 
imiceman44 said:
I did have a leak in my intake at first, the oring between the lower and upper intake was not in it's place and I was struggling to get 2-3 psi.
I had a little fuel leak at one of the lines coming out of the IP so I took the intake off I saw the oring off and I made sure to put it back right when I was done.
Now I have 4-5 all the time if I am not idle
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Dang. The ats turbo sounds like it’s a little more efficient. The needle doesn’t really move till Rpms start climbing when I’m gaining speed to shift. Even then I may get 2-3 right when I shift. I don’t see it get to 5 or higher unless I’m mashing the pedal or going up a grade. Gonna see if I have any boost leaks just to be sure. If not, all good. Truck definitely has little more power than a NA motor.
 
k5blazerguy said:
Dang. The ats turbo sounds like it’s a little more efficient. The needle doesn’t really move till Rpms start climbing when I’m gaining speed to shift. Even then I may get 2-3 right when I shift. I don’t see it get to 5 or higher unless I’m mashing the pedal or going up a grade. Gonna see if I have any boost leaks just to be sure. If not, all good. Truck definitely has little more power than a NA motor.
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I heard that the banks is the most efficient so I suspect either your intake is leaking or your turbo is not tight
 
Sunday, Got the ORD shock braces on, removed the zero rates and replaced with offset plates. Still about 1.5-2” rake but not so bad. I can always replace shackles, but I think looks good.IMG_2848.jpegIMG_2876.jpeg If he ever puts his motorcycle in the bed, then it will level out. (That was last years summer project, tearing this thing down to frame fixing almost everything and tryin to make a Vulcan 500 look as cool as possible for his 15th bday ).
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Today, she went to the shop for an alignment and 3” straight piped behind rear wheel. Didn’t wanna get diesel smoke all over the white wheels. Sounds pretty good. Much quieter. I didn’t think it would make that much of a difference being straight piped. But only thing is, can’t hear the turbo anymore! Bummer. Hahaha. Maybe if I did an intake like 2insane suggested, would help.
One thing I did notice today was the EGTs are lower. When climbing the 8% grade headed home, I was pushing the truck a little hard passing someone and before it would get to 1100 and I would back off a little. Today it was probably about 950 driving the same. Never got higher than 1000. Wondering if I should turn the fuel up just an 1/8 turn or so?

Next up on the To Do list is swap out the driven gear on the Tcase, wrap the down pipe, install a sweet bumper that I’ve been hoarding for a couple years, figure out brackets for Ebrake, get the dually center caps to fit, install some rear speakers….
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