handloader90
Building!
I need to find a dust shield/ inspection plate for the SM465.
CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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- smashed a$$
You should be able to buy a larger bleeder if that bothers you.
As for the arm, the hydro and mechanical arms are different. Yours looks roughly like my hydraulic arm. Though it's worth noting that I wound up needing more offset than I got from the stock hydro arm.
As for the arm, the hydro and mechanical arms are different. Yours looks roughly like my hydraulic arm. Though it's worth noting that I wound up needing more offset than I got from the stock hydro arm.
Is that arm unique to the Novak kit, or are they using standard parts?
I shied away from the Novak kit because it looked like I would never be able to find replacement parts while road tripping.
I shied away from the Novak kit because it looked like I would never be able to find replacement parts while road tripping.
handloader90
Building!
Cleaned up all the NP205 shifter and linkage stuff with a wire wheel and shot it with some rustoleum last weekend.
Ordered a bling shifter for the 4 Speed earlier this week from DIY4X. Waiting for that to arrive.
Ordered a bling shifter for the 4 Speed earlier this week from DIY4X. Waiting for that to arrive.
handloader90
Building!
It looks unique to their kit, I'm guessing they bent it up themselves (or someone did it for them) and the geometry of the fork is specific to their slave sylinder and bracket
I believe @bent72 and myslef had spoke about staying away from the Novak kit in a thread before due to it not being something that you can pick up at the parts store.
The guy I spoke to at Novak said that it's a one off kinda deal, I asked if the slave was based off of anything like a Toyota or something and he just told me that it was their own design... I'm sure it's very similar to something out there but I have no clue what.
The do offer a rebuild kit for the slave but it's just a small parts kit.
Hopefully it's built well enough where I don't have issues out of it, maybe in the future I'll buy another one from them and throw it in an ammo can with other repair parts and just keep it in the K5... just in case.
As long as it's going to experience longevity like a stock one, shouldn't be an issue
handloader90
Building!
What did you do to fix this?
handloader90
Building!
I was thinking about putting in a 90° elbow (to point it away from the exhaust manifold) on there with a larger bleeder.
Not sure yet, it's honestly not a big deal to me, if I find something better I'll post it up.
Tony Vickers
1/2 ton status
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Yea you should do something to preventing the exhaust from over heating your slave cylinder. It does seem a bit too close.
Well, so far I have done this. When I again have a functioning welder I plan to weld an extension on the rod. If I ever replace the S/C I'll just bring the rod to the new one.
You can also see how my pivot arm is right at the rear end of the rubber piece. And this is with the pedal up. It's quite possible that my arm has the wrong bend to it, but it matched the factory hydro arm that I replaced. So my only other possible error would be too short of a pivot (unlikely) or maybe the 6.2 flywheel has a slightly different offset?
The factory S/C had a heat shield attached (you can kinda see it in my picture above). Good idea, IMO.
handloader90
Building!
I'm still thinking about what I'm gonna do, a heat shield wrap around the whole body of the slave cylinder or some bent aluminum sheet bolted on somewhere. I jave to be mindful of the little amount of space that I have to work with.
Yeah, it does look tight. But the factory piece was able to fit a heat shield in there, so it should work. Unless your new exhaust is different enough.
handloader90
Building!
Got the engine and transmission mated yesterday, rigged the clutch up with a ratchet strap and disengaging the clutch was a no go. I'm going to need an adjustable ball pivot (pic attached of the one I ordered).
Really glad that I didn't get ahead of myself and install the engine because I caught a mistake that I made that probably would have caused a clutch failure and everything would have had to come back out again which would reallt suck because the front clip and everything else would be back on there if this would have happened.
I had the throwout bearing installed wrong. The throwout bearing has to fully seat into the fork AND the spring clip, I had it seatet BETWEEN the fork body and clip so it kind of just dangling there asking for trouble. Pics below, first two pics is the wrong way, second 2 pics is the proper way. Video explanation linked too.
Took some pics of the engine and trans mated, looks pretty cool to me... old and new mixed together.
Another thing to note about the Novak kit. I had to remove some material from the bellhousing for the slave cylinder bracket to sit flush on the bellhousing when bolted down, not a lot of material or anything structural.
Really glad that I didn't get ahead of myself and install the engine because I caught a mistake that I made that probably would have caused a clutch failure and everything would have had to come back out again which would reallt suck because the front clip and everything else would be back on there if this would have happened.
I had the throwout bearing installed wrong. The throwout bearing has to fully seat into the fork AND the spring clip, I had it seatet BETWEEN the fork body and clip so it kind of just dangling there asking for trouble. Pics below, first two pics is the wrong way, second 2 pics is the proper way. Video explanation linked too.
Took some pics of the engine and trans mated, looks pretty cool to me... old and new mixed together.
Another thing to note about the Novak kit. I had to remove some material from the bellhousing for the slave cylinder bracket to sit flush on the bellhousing when bolted down, not a lot of material or anything structural.
handloader90
Building!
Yeah, it does look tight. But the factory piece was able to fit a heat shield in there, so it should work. Unless your new exhaust is different enough.
I've got to get in there and check it all out, I think a piece of aluminum would be the best way to do it.
handloader90
Building!
Got some bling from DIY4X.
Adjustable pivot ball should be here tomorrow.
Adjustable pivot ball should be here tomorrow.
handloader90
Building!
So... I won't be bringing the K5 out to Colorado with me when I move in a few months. I've been telling my Wife about how I wanted to build a buggy for the last 2ish years or so and she made a good point of why I shouldn't put any more money into the K5 if I'm just gonna tear it apart when we get to Colorado and use the parts to build said buggy. She knows I love everything offroad so she's pretty supportive about it all which is nice, she didn't like the idea of me towing our jeep wrangler behind the K5 all the way out to Colorado though lol.
With our move timeline getting closer and closer and the Blazer not making much forward progress regardless of the money I dump into it I've decided to part it out.
I'm keeping the axle, engine and a few odds and ends. EVERYTHING else is going so if you saw something in the build that you may be interested in check out the for sale section, I have a looong ad in the General Parts for Sale section.
The buggy plan is:
Bent Fabrication Evo2 Chassis
4 link front
4 link rear
air shocks at all 4 corners
LQ4 6.0
TH400
NWF Eco Box
NP205
40" or 42" tires
Dana 60 -
Artec Truss
4.88 thick cut gears
Spool
Drive Flanges
14FF -
Artec Truss
4.88 thick cut gears
Spool
Possible TMR shave kit
and all the little stuff in between. Not trying to do any comp stuff with it, just a nice little 2 seater buggy with 1 tons and a little power to push it along.
With our move timeline getting closer and closer and the Blazer not making much forward progress regardless of the money I dump into it I've decided to part it out.
I'm keeping the axle, engine and a few odds and ends. EVERYTHING else is going so if you saw something in the build that you may be interested in check out the for sale section, I have a looong ad in the General Parts for Sale section.
The buggy plan is:
Bent Fabrication Evo2 Chassis
4 link front
4 link rear
air shocks at all 4 corners
LQ4 6.0
TH400
NWF Eco Box
NP205
40" or 42" tires
Dana 60 -
Artec Truss
4.88 thick cut gears
Spool
Drive Flanges
14FF -
Artec Truss
4.88 thick cut gears
Spool
Possible TMR shave kit
and all the little stuff in between. Not trying to do any comp stuff with it, just a nice little 2 seater buggy with 1 tons and a little power to push it along.
handloader90
Building!
Yea... sweet and sour at the same time.
If feels good not spending 85% of my paycheck after the bills are paid into the K5 anymore. Already got a few hits on some of the parts.
I called Novak, DIY4X, RockAuto, Summit and O'Reilly's today and all of my recent purchases can be returned and refunded so that was pretty good news.
If feels good not spending 85% of my paycheck after the bills are paid into the K5 anymore. Already got a few hits on some of the parts.
I called Novak, DIY4X, RockAuto, Summit and O'Reilly's today and all of my recent purchases can be returned and refunded so that was pretty good news.
handloader90
Building!
And when I get a nice parts stash built up I'll get the 3.0 going lol.
