Yep, pull the cross pin, push in shaft. Pull clips
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CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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handloader90
Building!
Thanks!
handloader90
Building!
Thanks!
handloader90
Building!
Got a little bit done this morning.
Pulled the axle shafts and backing plates off of the bad 12 bolt.
Gonna try to get the brake stuff off of the other axle during lunch.
Pulled the axle shafts and backing plates off of the bad 12 bolt.
Gonna try to get the brake stuff off of the other axle during lunch.
Did you see what the gear ratio was on the old one?
handloader90
Building!
Not yet, I had a helluva time getting that big pin out of the carrier with the pinion and ring gear being locked up... had to beat the snot out of the pinion yoke with a sledge hammer to get things to turn.
I'm gonna check when I get back to the truck.
Oh yeah I bet that was fun!
Is that a gun rack I see in the window!? Nice!
And what is that badge on the tail gate? Looks like a 6.2 diesel badge.
handloader90
Building!
Yep, old gun rack in there.
Pic of the badge is attached, idk if it's original to the truck or if someone just threw it on there...
handloader90
Building!
Didn't get the truck wrapped up today as planned.
Long story short the retaining bolt for the cross pin sheared off where it necks down from threads to the pin portion.
I tried a super strong magnet, a few different picks (neither worked) then I commenced to beating the ever living sh*t out of the cross pin in hopes that it would shear the rest of the retaining pin allowing me to get the cross pin out, then use a magnet and/or a punch to get the left behind bits.
I pounded on that cross pin for a combined time of at least two hours. Heavy blows with a sledge and a big punch and not a thing happened.
This was all going down in the bed of the truck.
Got fed up with it, loaded the axle into the back of my Jeep. It's sitting on some saw horses in the garage while I try and figure out a way to extract the pin.
Long story short the retaining bolt for the cross pin sheared off where it necks down from threads to the pin portion.
I tried a super strong magnet, a few different picks (neither worked) then I commenced to beating the ever living sh*t out of the cross pin in hopes that it would shear the rest of the retaining pin allowing me to get the cross pin out, then use a magnet and/or a punch to get the left behind bits.
I pounded on that cross pin for a combined time of at least two hours. Heavy blows with a sledge and a big punch and not a thing happened.
This was all going down in the bed of the truck.
Got fed up with it, loaded the axle into the back of my Jeep. It's sitting on some saw horses in the garage while I try and figure out a way to extract the pin.
Seen your other thread about that....
That sucks.
That sucks.
handloader90
Building!
This morning I ordered a kit specifically for removing a sheared cross pin lock bolt. Cost a little over $30 and seems to be pretty legit. http://www.fabbriassociates.com/index.html
I also ordered a full rebuild kit for the carb, new diaphragm (vac secondaries) for the carb, filter, pan gasket and 27" long bell housing mounted dipstick for the TH350.
Popped the hood during lunch and got to looking around, way more in depth than the day I bought it and found the following items that need attention:
PCV valve
Brake Booster Check Valve
Alternator wiring
Starter wiring
Barb fitting for brake vac line
Bypass heater (use one hose)
Fuel Filter
Replace all rubber fuel line
Replace brake vac line
Replace vac advance line
Fuel pump
Water Pump
Thermostat
Power Steering pump
Fan Clutch
Alternator belt
Power steering belt
Remove charcoal canister
New Grill (not priority)
Headlight bezel both sides (not priority)
HD headlight wiring kit (not priority)
Wiper reservoir (not priority)
Washer fluid motor (not priority)
Carb electric throttle wiring
Carb studs
Lower rad hose
Radiator overflow tank
Most of the stuff listed above is fairly cheap and I have all of the wiring, terminals and tools to do the wiring at home. Gonna buy about 30' of 3/8" hose which will take care of a lot of things on that list.
Looked for a tranny cooler and found the lines run into the radiator.
It has a Dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear (tranplanted from an older truck?). Thought they used 10 bolts front and rear at this point.
I don't think the TH350 and fixed yoke 205 are originally from this truck either, tranny tunnel looks like it was clearanced for the TH350 shifter.
Carburetor is a 600 CFM vacuum secondary 4160 Holley P/N: 80457
Some of the wiring was missing insulation (noticeable on the alternator wiring) so I unhooked the battery. Don't wanna come back to a burnt down truck...
The PCV valve was not hooked up and I'm sure this thing has multiple vacuum leaks lol... there's a lot of things that aren't hooked up or aren't hooked up in the right spot. Probably explains the throttle response being kinda laggy when I was driving it.
Pretty sure it has the original cast iron Q-Jet manifold on it, there is a spacer between it and the Holley. Thinking about getting a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake cause I've used/ liked them before.
Long post but figured if people are interested in this old truck that they might like to know this stuff.
I also ordered a full rebuild kit for the carb, new diaphragm (vac secondaries) for the carb, filter, pan gasket and 27" long bell housing mounted dipstick for the TH350.
Popped the hood during lunch and got to looking around, way more in depth than the day I bought it and found the following items that need attention:
PCV valve
Brake Booster Check Valve
Alternator wiring
Starter wiring
Barb fitting for brake vac line
Bypass heater (use one hose)
Fuel Filter
Replace all rubber fuel line
Replace brake vac line
Replace vac advance line
Fuel pump
Water Pump
Thermostat
Power Steering pump
Fan Clutch
Alternator belt
Power steering belt
Remove charcoal canister
New Grill (not priority)
Headlight bezel both sides (not priority)
HD headlight wiring kit (not priority)
Wiper reservoir (not priority)
Washer fluid motor (not priority)
Carb electric throttle wiring
Carb studs
Lower rad hose
Radiator overflow tank
Most of the stuff listed above is fairly cheap and I have all of the wiring, terminals and tools to do the wiring at home. Gonna buy about 30' of 3/8" hose which will take care of a lot of things on that list.
Looked for a tranny cooler and found the lines run into the radiator.
It has a Dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear (tranplanted from an older truck?). Thought they used 10 bolts front and rear at this point.
I don't think the TH350 and fixed yoke 205 are originally from this truck either, tranny tunnel looks like it was clearanced for the TH350 shifter.
Carburetor is a 600 CFM vacuum secondary 4160 Holley P/N: 80457
Some of the wiring was missing insulation (noticeable on the alternator wiring) so I unhooked the battery. Don't wanna come back to a burnt down truck...
The PCV valve was not hooked up and I'm sure this thing has multiple vacuum leaks lol... there's a lot of things that aren't hooked up or aren't hooked up in the right spot. Probably explains the throttle response being kinda laggy when I was driving it.
Pretty sure it has the original cast iron Q-Jet manifold on it, there is a spacer between it and the Holley. Thinking about getting a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake cause I've used/ liked them before.
Long post but figured if people are interested in this old truck that they might like to know this stuff.
Last edited:
handloader90
Building!
Also, trying to figure out what this metal tube protruding from the passenger side valve cover is... I've never had stock valve covers on a SBC and have no clue wtf it is.
Is it needed? What do I hook it up to? Can I pull the tube and plug it or throw another grommet and PCV valve in?
Maybe some kind of breather tube? Throw and aftermarket breather in there?
Is it needed? What do I hook it up to? Can I pull the tube and plug it or throw another grommet and PCV valve in?
Maybe some kind of breather tube? Throw and aftermarket breather in there?
handloader90
Building!
Shot of the engine bay.
Didn't have an air cleaner so I threw a $20 10" Edelbrock special on there.
Didn't have an air cleaner so I threw a $20 10" Edelbrock special on there.
your PCV is on the DS valve cover
Kinda a big PITA to return to stock. I just repaired one on a truck I flipped. The little hose that attaches to the breather in the air filter housing is originally a stepped hose and not easy to duplicate and the grommets in the valve covers were a biotch to find correct fitting ones. Mine had a taller air filter housing and a spacer to get it to fit the carb so I had to also weld an extension into that steel tube. I would change out the valve covers to aftermarket ones and put breathers in both and plug the pcv hose at the carb.
handloader90
Building!
Yea, I know the the PCV is on the DS. I was just trying to figure out what the hell that thing on the PS cover was. I've used the pop in style breathers before, like an Edelbrock, pop a grommet in the valve cover then push the breather in.
Neve had a tube just stick out of a valve cover like that though.
handloader90
Building!
Makes sense now.
That little Edelbrock air cleaner that I have has an opening on the bottom of it, about 5/8" or so in diameter. I'm guessing that's what it would hook up too.
Plan is to use a cheapo push-in breather.
