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Old Iron 2.0

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Good degreaser? This might sound odd, but go to the dollar store and get $1.00 oven cleaner. Get the engine warmed up, fog that crap all over and let it soak for about 10 minutes. Then power wash that the stuff off. It works better than you think.
 
I like the Foamy Engine Degreaser, I think it's the gunk one. Purple Power from Napa works really good too. Same as they said get it warm and let it soak then wash away. Heated pressure washers work the best but most don't have one of those.
 
Took the 10" air cleaner back this morning and swapped it out for an @82355 approved one.

Bolted the Chevy plate on and slapped the majestic Reagan sticker on the rear bumper. The sticker only stayed on long enough for me to take the pic... gonna pick up some spray adhesive and glue it on there real good.

Picked up some oil, a bottle of zinc and a Wix filter while I was at the parts store this morning too.

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Truckman4life said:
I like the Foamy Engine Degreaser, I think it's the gunk one. Purple Power from Napa works really good too. Same as they said get it warm and let it soak then wash away. Heated pressure washers work the best but most don't have one of those.
Click to expand...

I use purple power all of the time to clean my hands. Works great!

I don't have a heated pressure washer but one of the water hose hookups at work is is for hot water, it's hot enough that you definitely know when it touches your skin.
 
My Reagan sticker on the '76. I got it from an antique shop and after some accidental research I figured out it was from the Reagan primary campaign in '76. Cool I thought. Digging the truck! I'm building an 83 right now.

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Tossing around the idea of throwing my 14FF under the truck after having those brake issues the other day... I would hate to be flying down I-70 on my way through Kansas towing my Jeep and the rear brakes lockup or something. Sounds like a nightmare!

I've got a set of new RuffStuff perches for the 14FF sitting in the garage. All new disc brakes on the axle and it's 3.73 geared (which will be better than the 3.42 geared 12 Bolt that's currently under there).

The only bad thing is the spider gears are welded together where they mesh together. Last time I looked in that axle the spider gears looked like they were welded pretty good.

I have a set of spider gears sitting in my garage that I can swap in there. I just have to figure out how to get the welded spider gears out of there in order to replace them. Anyone have ideas? Is a torch the only way?

I would have to pickup an adjustable proportioning valve and two 8 lug wheels but other than that I could get it under the truck for no cost.

What are everyone's thoughts on this?
 
Did a little more research and found the answer to my question. Have to remove the carrier/ring gear. Gotta separate the ring gear from the carrier and the spiders and cross pin will just pull out.

I think I've got a line on some free 8 lug wheels with tires on them. Hopefully the tires aren't dry rotted or anything.
 
So I got up really early this morning and pressure washed the engine bay. Drove it around til it got to operating temperature then hosed the engine down with the Gunk degreaser gel. I sprayed some oven cleaner in there too.

Night and day difference!

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Gotta few updates on the truck.

I aquired some parts recently.

- Very nice leather bench seat
- 14FF No-Spin
- 14FF 4.56 Carrier, Ring gear, Pinion gear, pinion support. Grabbed the bearing caps, bolts and the spanner nut things that retain the carrier
- 14FF axle shafts.

Was gonna yank the hubs too but I didn't have the right stuff to support the truck while doing so.

14FF is going under the truck, gonna remove the stock combo/ prop valve, install a Wilwood prop valve and T off the front brake lines.

Wheels/Tires that I was gonna grab had dry rotted tires on them from sitting for so long. Gonna have to buy some wheels and have my 31's swapped over to them.

Gotta get this detroit swapped into my 14FF...

Do I need new ring gear bolts when I do this?

Also, I heard the detroit can explode and kill you dead when removing it. Do I just run some all thread down in it and throw some washers and wingnuts on there to keep it all contained?

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Got the 14FF broke down a little bit.

I stamped EVERYTHING. Bearing caps, bearing cap bolts, the housing next to the bearing caps, the bolts that hold the spanner nut retainer clip thing in place.

Marked the housing on both sides next to the spanner nuts, marked the spanner nuts in the same spot. 2 full spins on the drivers side, 3 full spins on the passenger side.

Don't have anything to check backlash so that didn't happen. I doubt the last guy who had it checked the backlash when he welded the spiders together either.

Gonna have to figure out how to get the ring gear bolts out of both of these things... I can't think of anything to keep the whole assembly still while I try to crank the bolts out. Gonna be a pain in the ass torquing them :unsure:

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Looks like the preferred method is holding the ring gear with your hand and using an impact wrench.

I need new ring gear bolts too.
 
Ordered new ring gear bolts from ECGS this morning. They're in NC so the bolts should arrive soon.

Ordered the wheels (15" wheel, 8x6.5 pattern). Coming out of Summit's GA warehouse so those should be here tomorrow.

Ordered the prop valve for the rear line.

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Got some U-Bolts, spring plates, brake line tabs and brake line clips in the mail today.

Wheels should be here tomorrow I think. Gonna have the 31's mounted and balanced on them this weekend hopefully.

Proportioning valve and the adapter fittings to use 1/4" brake line should be here soon too.

Just need to pick up some brake line and a flare tool.

Gonna see if this little shop near me will make some stainless lines for the calipers to the hardlines and a dropline with a T junction on it for cheap.

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