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Old Iron 2.0

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Also, ordering my steering stuff today. I plan on this ol girl moving within the next two weeks. Enough to hopefully flex it out and measure for some shocks so I can order those when the funds are available.

Doing a DIY4X Tie-Rod and crossover draglink. Gonna be using WFO Concepts springless crossover arm and springless kingpin cap.

I've already ordered TRE's and DLE's through O'Reillys. Bought some parts to freshen up the kingpins through ECGS. Got a D60 cover from RuffStuff on the way too.

Found out that I can use a blast cabinet here on post for $10 an hour. So I will be blasting the D60 knuckles, hubs and calipers.

They turn rotors at the skill center here too. I believe for $10 each, so I'll have those turned. Hopefully they aren't warped.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Yeah, that's a no brainer. How many gallons is it?
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The guy advertised it as a 20 gallon ATL fuel cell. I tried looking one up and ATL doesn't offer a 20 gallon. When we started texting he said he thinks it's an RCI 22 gallon. From the measurements in the pics that's what it looks to be.

He had some nice Bilstein 15" travel shocks with an external reservoir too. I wanted them but he wants about $100 each and I have other stuff to buy right now so it is what it is.
 
Man, that cheap for those shocks, but I totally under stand timing doesn't always work.

The 22 gallon cell should be good.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Man, that cheap for those shocks, but I totally under stand timing doesn't always work.

The 22 gallon cell should be good.
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Theses are the shocks.

I'll talk to him and see if he'll hold onto them them for a little while. Maybe I can get them when it's shock time.

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Those would be nice.

I have 12" Fox 2.0's to go on the front of mine, and 16" 2.0's to go on the rear. Some nice shock hoops up front would make use of those 5165's.
 
Got some front rear spring hangers in the mail today from @Babaganoosh. Thanks again bud!

The reason my current ones need replaced is because of bad nasty big chunky flaky rust. They are rusted to the point where there is holes in the hangers around the bolt hole area on both.

The ones I got today are a tad different, mainly the support piece that bolt to the bottom flange of the frame rail and the back side of the hanger. The ones on my truck have offset rivets on the bottom flange of the frame rail. The new ones holes are in a straight line. The two outer holes will bolt up, the two middle one will not.

Not a big deal to me. I'm not gonna elongate the two middle holes, I'll just run two bolts in the bottom flange. x6 7/16" Grade 8 bolts holding this thing onto the frame rail should be plenty nuff to get it from going anywhere.

Gonna remove all of the rivets, open all holes to 7/16" then sandbags and paint them black.

Hopefully they have a needle scaler at the shop I use, if so I'll be using it in quite a few areas to knock any loose stuff off.

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Why use a needle scaler when you have access to a blast cabinet?
 
skunked said:
Why use a needle scaler when you have access to a blast cabinet?
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I only have access to a blast cabinet.

All the small parts will go in the blast cabinet and for now the frame will get the needle scaler where needed.

If I find a rust free cab in the future then I will removed all bracketry from the frame and have each piece sandblasted and probably powdercoated a desert TAN color (I've put thought into this lol) but for now I'm not on the lookout for a new cab and most of the rust is nothing more than surface rust, one of the crossmembers has some structural rust going on and that crossmember will be removed and replaced with some 1/4" steel plates bolted to the web of the frame rails and connected together with some poo pipe.
 
ah, I thought you wanted to needle scale those hangers. btw those needle scalers are about $50 at HF if you have a compressor.
 
handloader90 said:
Got some front rear spring hangers in the mail today from @Babaganoosh. Thanks again bud!

The reason my current ones need replaced is because of bad nasty big chunky flaky rust. They are rusted to the point where there is holes in the hangers around the bolt hole area on both.

The ones I got today are a tad different, mainly the support piece that bolt to the bottom flange of the frame rail and the back side of the hanger. The ones on my truck have offset rivets on the bottom flange of the frame rail. The new ones holes are in a straight line. The two outer holes will bolt up, the two middle one will not.

Not a big deal to me. I'm not gonna elongate the two middle holes, I'll just run two bolts in the bottom flange. x6 7/16" Grade 8 bolts holding this thing onto the frame rail should be plenty nuff to get it from going anywhere.

Gonna remove all of the rivets, open all holes to 7/16" then sandbags and paint them black.

Hopefully they have a needle scaler at the shop I use, if so I'll be using it in quite a few areas to knock any loose stuff off.

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What's funny is I got those from @6872xtc And sent them in the same box and packaging he sent them to me like 5 years ago...
 
Are they the same width as yours from the frame to the spring opening? Not 1 ton or 2 WD or older 67-72 hangers are they?
 
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