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Old Iron 2.0

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Update 16OCT17:

Gonna be parting out the truck soon.

EVERYTHING will be up for grabs minus the small block that is in the truck and the NV4500 that I recently acquired.

Laundry list of parts, new and used will be posted once I find someone to come haul this hacked up frame and rotted out cab away.

Sorry to disappoint fellas, this project will be ending like a lot of previous ones :doah:
 
nvrenuf said:
What happened?!?
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Honestly, nothing.

The frame on the truck is tweaked, cab floor is see through, the cab portion of the body mounts are rusted out and shot.

More things to be done than I feel like doing. Progress isn't really moving forward.

Another deciding factor is I have about 18 months left in the Army and I have some debt that I want to take care of so I have a clean slate when I get out... huge life transition waiting ahead of me and I want to be prepared for it.

I'll have another project but I don't think it will be for a few more years, and it most likely be some kind of buggy built from the ground up with new materials... tired of ending up with 30+ year old rusted out and tweaked trucks.
 
If any of you guys are interested in anything you've seen in this thread shoot me a PM and I'll give you a price.

Tear down won't happen until I have some one to haul the cab and frame away.
 
Little update on this.

So my current frame is tweaked pretty good, seems to be from just under the cab back. The truck was in an wreck it it hit something at some point... very evident on the drivers side where some of the sheet metal in the door, fender and cab was mangled a little bit.

I've found a CUCV cab and frame. The frame is noticeably more heavy duty than a 1/2 ton frame and in good shape. The cab looked to be rust free when I looked at it, floor is solid. Didn't get to see the bottom side of it yet.

That will solve my two issues... ****ered up frame and rotted out cab mounts/ see through floor pan.

I'm thinking really hard about buying it, it's priced to sell.

Then throw some springs and my axles under it so it's sitting on all 4 and go from there.

Looking for some persuasion to go through with it due to me picking up another project that I just couldn't pass up on.
 
Here is the new project mentioned in the previous post.

Running driving 1952 CJ3A. The ONLY rust on this thing is where the spare tire carrier was mounted on the passenger side quarter panel.

Believed to still have the original L134 flathead. Fires up like no one's business.

Since its pretty antique and it's currently in running order I don't plan on messing with it too much... I've already picked up axles for it though.

I had the P.O. remove the plow prior to me taking ownership of it, I've also pulled the hard top, doors and windshield frame off and I'm trying to sell them, very small market for These though.

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handloader90 said:
Little update on this.

So my current frame is tweaked pretty good, seems to be from just under the cab back. The truck was in an wreck it it hit something at some point... very evident on the drivers side where some of the sheet metal in the door, fender and cab was mangled a little bit.

I've found a CUCV cab and frame. The frame is noticeably more heavy duty than a 1/2 ton frame and in good shape. The cab looked to be rust free when I looked at it, floor is solid. Didn't get to see the bottom side of it yet.

That will solve my two issues... ****ered up frame and rotted out cab mounts/ see through floor pan.

I'm thinking really hard about buying it, it's priced to sell.

Then throw some springs and my axles under it so it's sitting on all 4 and go from there.

Looking for some persuasion to go through with it due to me picking up another project that I just couldn't pass up on.
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Get it.
 
max 02 said:
Buy the cab and frame!
Keep the doors roof and windshield frame for the Jeep!!! You will never find those again. That cj is so Cool!
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It's gonna take A LOT of work to get the top and doors even 85% good to go.

The windshield frame for it is of the stationary type, it's the wrong style for the model and it is specific to the hard top.

I'm working a CJ3A windshield frame with glass and wipers through a guy out east right now, should be getting it shipped via Fastenal for a few hundred dollars less than what a new reproduction costs.

Planning on doing a roll cage wish an aluminum skin on top as a roof for it.
 
handloader90 said:
It's gonna take A LOT of work to get the top and doors even 85% good to go.

The windshield frame for it is of the stationary type, it's the wrong style for the model and it is specific to the hard top.

I'm working a CJ3A windshield frame with glass and wipers through a guy out east right now, should be getting it shipped via Fastenal for a few hundred dollars less than what a new reproduction costs.

Planning on doing a roll cage wish an aluminum skin on top as a roof for it.
Click to expand...

Ok... That’s fair enough. I could just envision myself in that the way it is as a very cool hunting rig/ cow checker around the farm. That enclosed feature would be so nice in the winter.
Always wanted a flat fender! :waytogo:
 
Well I ordered some DOM tubing today to make my tie rod and drag link out of. 72" of 1.5"x.25 wall.

Ordered a 72" stick of 1.5"×.120 wall tube to make my two rear crossmember with, the rear most crossmember was removed and so was the one located between the rear spring hangers due to how rusted out they were.

I had a few pieces of 3/16" plate sitting in the garage so I cut out two plates that were 3.75x7.5 and those will be what the rear most tube gets welded into and made into a crossmember, it will be sandwiched between the shackle flips, ussing the same bolts that the shackle flip is mounted to the frame with. Should be pretty sturdy.

I think with the addition of the crossmember the rear frame rails will align properly and it won't be tweaked anymore.

I ordered a front bracket kit for a SBC (ICT Billet) for the alternator and p-pump. Thinking about ordering an Edelbrock intake for the 350 too, currently has a cast iron q-jet pattern intake on there with an spreadbore to square bore adapter. I'll probably end up getting a jet kit for the Holley that's on there to account for the huge elevation change from TN to CO.

Popped the lower rad hose off and drained all of the liquid out of the radiator and engine (mostly water from a creek with a little bit of anti-freeze). Don't want it getting to cold and my block gets cracked or pushes a freeze plug out.

Planning on keeping the cab that's on it for now due to me only having a one car garage and nowhere to store the frame and cab that I mentioned previously... I'll have to hole saw the floor and get the seized up shanks of the bolts that are still in there out and figure it out from there.

Also planning on dropping the rear shackle down from 7.5" or whatever it is back down to the 6" cross-tied shackles that I originally had on there.

Gonna pull the 4" lift 52's from up front and replace them with the stock height 52's that are sitting in the garage then sell off the 4" lift ones.

I just got back from a month in Cali and had time to reflect on the truck a bit and decided I have too much blood, sweat and money into this thing to part it out like I've done with trucks before.

It's been pretty nice in my part of CO too, it was 60ish on Saturday and really nice today too so I've gained a little motivation to start getting pieces ready to install.

Been scouring Craigslist for a decent set of cheap SBC header so I can ditch the stock manifolds.
 
Got the Rear crossmember made. It's sandwiched between the shackle flips, everything is held together with 1/2" hardware.

3/16" plate and 1.5"x.120 wall DOM. .35 mig on 110v with 1 pass on each side of the plate.

It's pretty sturdy and straight. Welds aren't beautimus but it's melted together good.

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How much did you chop off of your frame?

What's you wheelbase?

Nice progress.
 
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