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one ton axle build up-lookin for advice

blazinzuk said:
Now this may not hold true and fast, but every one ton 14 bolt that I have seen does not have the cast perches like that one does.

I would bet money its a direct bolt in, other than the conversion u joint

congrats

I hate all of you with perfect dashes :D
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We'll it sounds like i got some bunch of luck having direct swap one tons. Im going to need to cut off that perch when i put these on the hendrix motor sports buggy with their 4 link. Will having the perch casted be any issue?

4X4HIGH said:
Like Wes said, those are the 11" composite drums and those were only used on 3/4 ton trucks, ALL of the 1 tons were the larger 13" drums.

Greg, knowing your going to do a rear disc swap you WILL have to replace the wheel studs with the longer ones that are used with the 13" drums.

You said you bought a rear disc conversion, who's kit is it? Once you mount the rotors to the hubs you need to machine the rotors so they are true to the hubs. I can do that for you here at the house, can even press all the wheel studs out and back in.
Click to expand...

The kit is from DIY according to indy4x4 fab and hes including
-jb6 calipers from a 79 3/4 ton,
And im not sure what he meant by this
the brakets r diy brackets but i didnt like the way they mounted so i made full circle spacer to replace the small chuncks of angle iron.
Click to expand...

They got a press and lathe at my work so i may be able to do it there but i definitley appreciate the offer and ill keep you updated on that. What would you charge me for such a service :D.
 
blazinzuk said:
Now this may not hold true and fast, but every one ton 14 bolt that I have seen does not have the cast perches like that one does.

I would bet money its a direct bolt in, other than the conversion u joint

congrats

I hate all of you with perfect dashes :D
Click to expand...
All 14FF's ran cast perches up to '84.

Beginning '85, they were all stamped steel.
 
OH MAN! i bet your excited. i cant wait to get my tonnage, ill be gettin mine here in about a month or so, ill definatly post up pics.
 
i LOOOOVE one tons that are clean pullouts. built up polished ones dont do it as much as stock tons do. i think its more of the thrill of pulling em. new tons. those were the days.
 
Well i dont have a buggy build thread yet (starting a build thread with no chassi's seems silly) so i figure ill do the axle build here. At the risk of sounding like a poser wannabe racer with his head in the clouds im trying to make a competitive race buggy (at the age of 18 makin 9.50 an hour) my only plus is that i currently dont have any expenses except hygiene products,dog food and gas so i usually have no problem gettin ahold of 800 bucks or so in expendable cash each month towards the project. Im planning on running 42'' tires so re-gearing is a must and lockers obviously are as well. After changing my mind about 40 times im planning on running detroits front and rear just because the benefits of ARB arent large enough IMO on my current income to justify the extra dollars involved in em. Instead im going to use the extra cash that woulda gone towards ARB on upgraded Shafts/u-joints.

So anyways heres my product list i got so far,Completely open to changes

dana 60 1410 yoke $120
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3580

dana 60 detroit locker $620
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3675

Need some help pickin out the u-joints
$456 chromoly u-joints
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=12
Im sure they are incredibly strong and all but is their any other cheaper alternatives to upgrade from OEM spec's.

Dedenbear knuckles (2) $520 planning on running full hydro-steer,Worth upgrading knuckles or no?
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-1558906-chevy-dana-60-ried-knuckels.html

dana 60 chromoly shafts
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-151991-10-factory-chromoly-upgrade-full-kit-dana-60.html

Thats as far as i could go with the list before the money im going to be spending started to make my head spin :doah: ,Anything on/in the axles that would be a good idea to replace to avoid future failure?
 
I wasnt aware the new rotors had to be machined to the hubs...thats new to me, I ran mine forever without doing that. Guess I should try that next time.
 
86chevyk10 said:
I wasnt aware the new rotors had to be machined to the hubs...thats new to me, I ran mine forever without doing that. Guess I should try that next time.
Click to expand...

The rotor is not true until it has been machined while it is attached to the hub. :deal:
 
4X4HIGH said:
The rotor is not true until it has been machined while it is attached to the hub. :deal:
Click to expand...

I thought rotors are hub centric, it doesn't make sense that everytime you put new rotors you have to machine them?
 
4X4HIGH said:
The rotor is not true until it has been machined while it is attached to the hub. :deal:
Click to expand...

Are you talking about turning them on an actual brake lathe? I agree with your statement, but I've never seen it done on the hub.

When I built my 60 I had to remove the rotor from the hub to have them turned, they wouldn't fit on the lathe.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Like Wes said, those are the 11" composite drums and those were only used on 3/4 ton trucks, ALL of the 1 tons were the larger 13" drums.

Greg, knowing your going to do a rear disc swap you WILL have to replace the wheel studs with the longer ones that are used with the 13" drums.

You said you bought a rear disc conversion, who's kit is it? Once you mount the rotors to the hubs you need to machine the rotors so they are true to the hubs. I can do that for you here at the house, can even press all the wheel studs out and back in.
Click to expand...

Two questions, first, why would he have to use different studs? I used the ones that were on my 1975 K20 14bff when I installed discs. Second, why would he have to have the rotors machined? Nobody does that kind of stuff. Brake lathes are a thing of the past.

Martin
 
I used the longer studs because newer wheels (I used h2 wheels) are thicker at the mounting surface. Brake lathes are still used around here, oreillys is where I get mine turned, 10 bucks each, of course I drive my truck like a race car sometimes, pretty hard on the brakes.
 
He has a brake lathe in his garage, you don't have to do it, but if its there why not turn the rotor to make everything perfectly true, I really don't trust the machining of a new chinese rotor anyhow so Id do it.

The longer studs will mount up to mag type lug nuts and the shorter studs have just enough room for steel rims and acorn lugs...
 
90'K5 said:
Are you talking about turning them on an actual brake lathe? I agree with your statement, but I've never seen it done on the hub.

When I built my 60 I had to remove the rotor from the hub to have them turned, they wouldn't fit on the lathe.
Click to expand...

Yes, once the rotor is mounted to the hub then it gets mounted on the brake lathe and machined.

The shop where you took your rotors must have only had a small bench top brake lathe. My lathe is a LARGE floor standing model that can do LARGE bobtail type truck drums even with the wheels on. :eek1:
 
there are brake lathes that can turn the rotors while they are on the car. we used one at the chevy dealership i worked at. you rolled it around on a transmission jack type of thing. you took the tire off, left the rotor on the car, bolted the lathe to the wheel studs, and turned it on. it spun the rotor and cut it on the car.
 
82355 said:
Two questions, first, why would he have to use different studs? I used the ones that were on my 1975 K20 14bff when I installed discs. Second, why would he have to have the rotors machined? Nobody does that kind of stuff. Brake lathes are a thing of the past.

Martin
Click to expand...

The studs that are used with the 11" drums are too short to mount a rotor to the backside of the hub then a wheel on the front side.

To make the rotors true to the new center which happens to be the hub in this case. :deal:

The people that don't machine brake drums or rotors aren't doing the job properly or they don't care if they have brake pulsation or they're just too damn lazy to do a job correctly.

If brake lathes are a thing of the past then why do you think brake lathes are still made? :rolleyes:
 
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