That's where seat time will come in handy. Swap it, try it, if ya' don't like it then re-gear.
CK5
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one ton axle build up-lookin for advice
- Thread starter gotblazers
- Start date
That's where seat time will come in handy. Swap it, try it, if ya' don't like it then re-gear.
That is a very good setup.
As for your other parts, shop around on many of them. Steer away from the Durasolid stuff, they used to be the supplier for Randy's (they ditched them for various reasons) and now they are selling the same Randy's designs for cheap. The problem is they no longer have any US design input or US quality control, I know one KOH racer that was shipped a shaft that was cracked in the box, uninstalled.
Overseas stuff isn't all bad if they are given good designs and someone here is checking that it is cast, machined and heat treated correctly.
Once it is up to someone in India to make an axle shaft that they have never seen or know anything about, let alone know much about metallurgy...
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
Im gettin detroits soon and im pretty sure the 4.10 version wont fit a 5.13
Glad to hear that, Just out of curiosity since you probably deal with alot of racers. In your experience do most of em run auto's or manuals?
Im a little leary of a stickshift for extreme use due to a accident i had. I was in the hollister secondary mini playground on a set of 5 consecutive humps that got steeper and steeper and on the 2nd one i came down trying to hit the brake but my foot got thrown right and floored the gas and launched me over the next steeper hill and then the same thing happend on the next 2 until my front end slammed down so hard after flying off the last super steep hump full throttle that the engine stalled. Broke one of my exhaust welds there too
.I was only wearing a conventional 2 strap seat belt so maybe the full 5 point harness in the buggy would make it much easier to safely control the pedals.
Come to think of it im pretty sure i read a thread about the poor quality of there chromoly shafts a while ago. Guess ill have to look for my stubs elsewhere.
Thick 5.13 gears will fit a 4.10 and down carrier
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
How does that work?
I went to the hammers 3 weeks ago, with 4 buggies, a toyota, and a jeep. All the buggies had 6.0l's w/ automatics (th350 or 400) and an Atlas. Either spider 9's or built 60/14 combos, and 42" Iroks or tsl...
In the 14 bolt, you can do that, but in the front 60, you need the proper Detroit carrier to run 5.13 as there are no 'thick' gears for the 60. Thick gears are just that, thick ring gear to allow for the extra space on a 4.10 carrier vs a 4.56 and up carrier that mounts the ring gear closer to the pinion (those ratios have a small pinion). There is a ring gear spacer you can purchase to achieve the same thing with standard gears.
In the 14 bolt, you can do that, but in the front 60, you need the proper Detroit carrier to run 5.13 as there are no 'thick' gears for the 60. Thick gears are just that, thick ring gear to allow for the extra space on a 4.10 carrier vs a 4.56 and up carrier that mounts the ring gear closer to the pinion (those ratios have a small pinion). There is a ring gear spacer you can purchase to achieve the same thing with standard gears.
DO NOT use a ring gear spacer. In most applications the spacer doesn't leave enough of the carrier to properly locate the ring gear and then you have all kinds of troubles.
for a rock crawler we made one from a stop sign for a 70HD. works good.
just sayin. MY OWN rig, never in a million years would i do it.
just sayin. MY OWN rig, never in a million years would i do it.
I wouldn't use a spacer either, but ive seen them machined and work in the past.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
I found a deal on a 90 k5 i might be pickin up with a fresh tbi 350/sm465/203/205 doubler on tons w/ 4.56s. Thats the only reason im even considering a sm465/203/205 doubler combo and the insane crawl ratio id get from the 465's granny low would be nice in the rocks probably especially with a pair of stickys but i'd hate to not be able to shift if the clutch linkage got bound in the rocks and i think having to shift would really slow me down but theres something to be said for the 465's durability, Chances of tranny failure would be pretty unlikely at a very low cost. I already got a th400 ill mate to a atlas if that deal doesnt go through, Just would save alot of money in parts off that deal which is always appreciated at my pay rate.
Well after all these comments looks like i definitley dont want to go the ring gear spacer or thick cut gear way. Think ill just make a decision on gearing before i buy the locker.
Im kinda thinkin i like the idea with stickin with 4.10s for top end speed. I did a little math with a
red-line of 4000 rpm- Im planning on a real lumpy low end cam
tire diameter of 42''
1:1 final gear since the sm465/th350/th400 all share that as their tallest gear
Th400 mated to 203/205 doubler
Top speed w/4.10's
high=115
low=87
crawl ratio w/4/10's
81.34
Top speed w/4.56's
high=104
low=78
crawl ratio w/4.56's
90.47
Top speed w/5.13's
high=92
low=69
crawl ratio w/5.13's
101.78
72blazerguy
3/4 ton status
Ring gear spacer and thick cut gears are different options. If you are really building a competition buggy, 4000 RPM seems a bit low to me. Any healthy SBC will run at least 5000.
What suspension are you planning so that you're rig can run about 100 mph through the desert?
I also think you should worry more about seat time. It's almost guaranteed that you will not find the complete perfect combination the first time.
What suspension are you planning so that you're rig can run about 100 mph through the desert?
I also think you should worry more about seat time. It's almost guaranteed that you will not find the complete perfect combination the first time.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
...ring gear spacer and thick cut gears are different options. If you are really building a competition buggy, 4000 rpm seems a bit low to me. Any healthy sbc will run at least 5000.
no real decisions on motor or gears atm,seeing as how i dont even have a chassis yet or a truss on the axles for the 4 link the motor is the least of my worrys.
what suspension are you planning so that you're rig can run about 100 mph through the desert?
probably copy everyone else with the coil overs and triple hyper super omega valve blah blah shocks thatll cost me 40 trillion dollars. In reality i have no idea atm, not really worried about it, taking it one step at a time or else its all too overwhelming. Right now im on step 2 with at least 40 more to go.
i also think you should worry more about seat time. It's almost guaranteed that you will not find the complete perfect combination the first time.
current plan is to get seat time in the 90 k5 if the loan comes through and swap the drivetrain out of it into the buggy with a few changes, if not then the 76 will be turned into my seat time vehicle and will get all the expensive mods the buggy will get and then completely gutted for the buggy once ive saved up enough money
'
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gotblazers
1/2 ton status
Talking to a ck5 retailer and apparently noone makes a spool for a 14 bolt except for in a 4.10 and down carrier so thinkin ill stick with 4.10s for now. Its a cheap way to get me wheelin ASAP. with spools at like 200 a piece if those gears suck balls for competition ill gear up and keep the 4.10+spool with me as spares.
That is because most aftermarket 5.13s and 5.38s are thick gears, designed to fit a 4.10 carrier
Weld it, even cheaper
true, my 14bff carrier is a 4.10 carrier and Im running 5.38 thick gears as they only come that way. You have to get the proper carrier on the d-60 though, there are no thick gears available.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
Ah you guys are right
, cant believe i forgot about the thick gear option when we were just talking about this on the last page. Thanks for your patience guys 
. So 5.38 thick cut gears,spool and master install should cover the rear. For the front i need to find a new carrier,5.38 gears,master install and then a spool again for the 5.38's. A carrier out of a CUCV dana 60 would probably work 
.With blazerfest less than 4 months away i may need to half ass the difs and throw in a rear spool as is, leave the front open and do a 203/205 triple stick and some bead locked 42''s. Still need to pick up a trailer to
. My goal is make it through tank trap at least once this year. Which should be interesting since i wont have funds for a cage or winch by then. I'll add good recovery points though.
Ah you guys are right
With blazerfest less than 4 months away i may need to half ass the difs and throw in a rear spool as is, leave the front open and do a 203/205 triple stick and some bead locked 42''s. Still need to pick up a trailer to
The spool replaces the carrier so you don't need to find a carrier if you're going to put a spool up front (I would recommend NOT running a spool up front though).
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
Thats what i thought after looking at a spool and looking back at the carrier in the ford 9'' i rebuilt in my truck mech. class i couldnt imagine how both would fit but he said i would need one so i figured
. Glad to hear you clear that up for me because i was really grinding the gears in my brain trying to figure out how those would fit together lol.
Thats what i thought after looking at a spool and looking back at the carrier in the ford 9'' i rebuilt in my truck mech. class i couldnt imagine how both would fit but he said i would need one so i figured
You might be thinking of a mini spool which goes inside of a factory open carrier (not nearly as strong as a full spool).
