Or notch the webbing.
CK5
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Or notch the webbing.
Got the springs...
Installed the springs, took the truck to hollister yesterday and tested it out. Bumped into @Gibby56 out on the trail, nice rig! The springs work great on the road and even better off road. They need to break in a little, but that's ok. The rig is back the way it was before I snapped one, glad to get rid of those lift springs. Pretty smooth ride. Mounted a spare spring in the bed to assure I wont need it...Looks like my buddy is going out today instead of yesterday, might head back out there...
Been driving it around lately...Got the power windows working again, bad connector at the window crank motor. Added the cupholder piece to the center console next to the shifter.
Took it back out wheeling again...
Bolted down a spare 52" Alcan in the bed of the Blazer, arching over the wheel well. Also mounted the spare back there and removed the rear seat...
I ordered new u-bolts and 8 deg. steel shims with spare center pins. The center pins that were installed were bent when the springs arrived from Alcan, so I swapped them out. Once the new parts arrive, I'll get them installed.
Took it back out wheeling again...
Bolted down a spare 52" Alcan in the bed of the Blazer, arching over the wheel well. Also mounted the spare back there and removed the rear seat...
I ordered new u-bolts and 8 deg. steel shims with spare center pins. The center pins that were installed were bent when the springs arrived from Alcan, so I swapped them out. Once the new parts arrive, I'll get them installed.
I saw the trouble that you were having breaking the studs on your 60 and then this D60 trail repair kit from WFO popped up on my IG feed. Might be worth carrying?
Chevy Dana 60 Trail Repair U-Bolt Kit | WFOConcepts.com
Find Chevy Dana 60 Trail Repair U-Bolt Kit at WFOConcepts.com
www.wfoconcepts.com
Thanks!
I'll definitely order that for insurance and piece off mind on the trail.
Both times I broke the studs, it was a direct relation to breaking a front spring, which then twists the axle and snaps the studs. Both times I nervously drove out on 1 stud several miles in the rocks re-torquing as I went.
I'll definitely order that for insurance and piece off mind on the trail.
Both times I broke the studs, it was a direct relation to breaking a front spring, which then twists the axle and snaps the studs. Both times I nervously drove out on 1 stud several miles in the rocks re-torquing as I went.
Cellphone video, Hollister last weekend...
View attachment My movie 1.mp4
View attachment My movie 2.mp4
View attachment My movie 1.mp4
View attachment My movie 2.mp4
Swapped the passenger door with a better door I had.
My u-bolts and centerpins and steel shims came in...ended up swapping my u-bolts in the front and added the 8 deg. steel shims. Got new 1/2" thick spring plates too...Got rid of the offset bent drag link and made a straight one out of 1" DOM I had with intentions of running new drag link ends I had. When I was swapping the draglink, I noticed the pitman arm has play and the nut is fully torqued to 240 ft/lbs. I pulled the pitman arm nut and the pitman arm came off by hand, the splines are chunked/ broken in the opposite spots and is just worn out and I need a new one, the press fit is gone. The tierod ends were bottoming out and binding the pitman arm. The drag link ends must have a slightly larger diameter shaft/taper then the tierod ends, the cotter pin hole doesn't reach the castle nut all the way, so no cotter pin right now. Need to order more steering parts. Going to run heims on the draglink for more angle. Probably going to have to make another drag link again as the length will change with the heims.
My u-bolts and centerpins and steel shims came in...ended up swapping my u-bolts in the front and added the 8 deg. steel shims. Got new 1/2" thick spring plates too...Got rid of the offset bent drag link and made a straight one out of 1" DOM I had with intentions of running new drag link ends I had. When I was swapping the draglink, I noticed the pitman arm has play and the nut is fully torqued to 240 ft/lbs. I pulled the pitman arm nut and the pitman arm came off by hand, the splines are chunked/ broken in the opposite spots and is just worn out and I need a new one, the press fit is gone. The tierod ends were bottoming out and binding the pitman arm. The drag link ends must have a slightly larger diameter shaft/taper then the tierod ends, the cotter pin hole doesn't reach the castle nut all the way, so no cotter pin right now. Need to order more steering parts. Going to run heims on the draglink for more angle. Probably going to have to make another drag link again as the length will change with the heims.
Ended up ordering the metal on metal tierod ends from ORD. They have the angle of the draglink ends with the short body of a tierod end.
I got the new pitman arm mounted up and the draglink with the bend in it back on the rig. The heims are a different thread per inch then the tierod ends and I didn't want to weld new ends on the draglink, the .250 wall draglink tube is already threaded 7/8-18.
Ripped the soft top on the last trip wheeling, sewed it up from the inside. Need to re-work that corner once I pull the top completely off.
I got the new pitman arm mounted up and the draglink with the bend in it back on the rig. The heims are a different thread per inch then the tierod ends and I didn't want to weld new ends on the draglink, the .250 wall draglink tube is already threaded 7/8-18.
Ripped the soft top on the last trip wheeling, sewed it up from the inside. Need to re-work that corner once I pull the top completely off.
Took the rig wheeling last weekend...
Exhaust started rattling then got obnoxiously bad and I drove back to the trailer and called it a day...opened up the mufflers when I got home and all the baffles were broken and rattling around inside. Ordered some magnaflows and they should be here in a few days.
Noticed one of the crossmember bolts that goes into the transfercase adapter and sandwiches the mount was missing and it turns out it broke off. Need to pull the crossmember when I do the exhaust, I'll extract the bolt then...Hopefully the exhaust fixes the lack of power I've been experiencing lately too...
Exhaust started rattling then got obnoxiously bad and I drove back to the trailer and called it a day...opened up the mufflers when I got home and all the baffles were broken and rattling around inside. Ordered some magnaflows and they should be here in a few days.
Noticed one of the crossmember bolts that goes into the transfercase adapter and sandwiches the mount was missing and it turns out it broke off. Need to pull the crossmember when I do the exhaust, I'll extract the bolt then...Hopefully the exhaust fixes the lack of power I've been experiencing lately too...
