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Only one thing stopping my front end now this tie rod!

trav0302

trav0302

1/2 ton status
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Aug 6, 2010
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lafayette colorado
So heres the issue axle is 3/4 ton 81 and knuckle is off the stock 72 blazer dana that i had machined for my crossover steering. So the issue is the 72's tie wont fit in the 3/4 tons sleeve. I do have the linkage off the 72 but I'm pretty sure I can't get it to open up big enough for the 81's tie rod either.

IMG_20120504_052720.jpg
 
Check this issue too....

81 knuckle accepts the tie rod from the bottom, under the steering arm.

72 knuckle... doesn't the tie rod go on top of the steering arm? :dunno: You may have to drill out the taper on the end of the steering arm on the old Dana knuckle and use an insert to flip the tie rod under the arm, like the 81 knuckle.

After that I think you'll need 3/4 ton TREs. OK, wait a minute, my memory is digging. My 1/2 ton TREs are the same as the 3/4 ton TREs. Maybe it's a later year thing where they changed the thread size? Personally, I don't recommend the stock tie rod and adjuster sleeve, they bend pretty easily. Specifically the adjuster sleeve.

But, to make what you have work, use the long drivers side tie rod and adjuster sleeve and just get the short side TRE that goes with it. This would be sourced from an 80s vintage 3/4 or maybe even a 1 ton. It's either a 7/8" diameter or 1" diameter where the threads go into the sleeve.

This is all by memory so I may be a little off. YMMV.
 
I knowist the top mount thing thought that was kinda weird. So heres another one can you mount it pass up and drive down. Might sound dumb but looks possible.:doah:
 
No. You will be putting the tie rod joints into an angle they are not designed to operate at. May work for a while but will wear quickly and if unnoticed the stud could pop out of the joint resulting in the loss of steering control.

Don't end up on the scary steering site, ot the fail blog, or the news. Do it right the first time.
 
OK sounds like a plan thus far. Top mount. I have a new tie rod laying around for the 81 3/4 ton axle that i order on accident that i use on the 72 knuckle with that insert.

On a side not I never thought that using a 72 and 81 knuckle would be an issue. Everything bolted up nicely and seemed to match up pretty well in size too. Is this going to cause me problems in the future?
 
trav0302 said:
OK sounds like a plan thus far. Top mount. I have a new tie rod laying around for the 81 3/4 ton axle that i order on accident that i use on the 72 knuckle with that insert.

On a side not I never thought that using a 72 and 81 knuckle would be an issue. Everything bolted up nicely and seemed to match up pretty well in size too. Is this going to cause me problems in the future?
Click to expand...


It depends. The train of thought it that not all knuckles have the same length tie rod arm. Even a minute difference between two knuckles can alter your ackerman angle at full steering lock.

This is part of the reason that high steer knuckle drilling is bad when they exchange them rather than drill yours.
 
Stomis said:
All square body GM TREs are the same size and taper regardless of tonage rating.

Theyre 7/8 fine thread. Heres an excellent reference for length and part number 7/8th GM "One ton" TRE's.

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/cr/Chevy-Dodge-7-8-18-Threads/3163/3204/3241

My guess is you either need an ES2010R or ES2010L depending on the thread direction in that sleeve.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. I just remember there being 2 styles, one with short TREs on each end connected by a tube tie rod of which I had 2 of them (one original to the K5 and one from the donor 3/4 ton). And the other style was one long tie rod and one short one connected by the adjuster sleeve like in the above pic (which the parts places listed as 1 ton or 2nd design). And I thought the 2nd style was larger diameter but didn't have one to compare to and didn't want that style anyway cause of the adjuster sleeve. Anyways, I bought 2 new short TREs and the HD tie rod tube from ORD.

And x3 on using the other Dana knuckle. Had I known you had that in the parts bin I would have suggested that before. Simple solution and no need to buy anything. :woot:
 
72 knuckle tie rod goes up top and out of the way.i dont know why the decided to change that and get it lower and easier to smash on rocks on the later axles.the two different tre's on the earlier one are passenger side clockwise thread and drivers side counterclockwise thread i believe.but all are the same 7/8 size.if i were you id use the 72 knuckles and it will be almost as good as high steer compared to the 82 setup.just have to redo the balljoints which is a pain but will be work better.i dont think there is a real strength difference in the 2 either.just ones 10 years older.im still running my stock 72s 40 years later and still runnin good.plus later on the are already flat top if you want to run crossover.
 
496truck said:
Gotcha. I just remember there being 2 styles, one with short TREs on each end connected by a tube tie rod of which I had 2 of them (one original to the K5 and one from the donor 3/4 ton). And the other style was one long tie rod and one short one connected by the adjuster sleeve like in the above pic (which the parts places listed as 1 ton or 2nd design). And I thought the 2nd style was larger diameter but didn't have one to compare to and didn't want that style anyway cause of the adjuster sleeve. Anyways, I bought 2 new short TREs and the HD tie rod tube from ORD.

And x3 on using the other Dana knuckle. Had I known you had that in the parts bin I would have suggested that before. Simple solution and no need to buy anything. :woot:
Click to expand...

Sounds like I got some extra work ahead of me then.



chulisohombre said:
72 knuckle tie rod goes up top and out of the way.i dont know why the decided to change that and get it lower and easier to smash on rocks on the later axles.the two different tre's on the earlier one are passenger side clockwise thread and drivers side counterclockwise thread i believe.but all are the same 7/8 size.if i were you id use the 72 knuckles and it will be almost as good as high steer compared to the 82 setup.just have to redo the balljoints which is a pain but will be work better.i dont think there is a real strength difference in the 2 either.just ones 10 years older.im still running my stock 72s 40 years later and still runnin good.plus later on the are already flat top if you want to run crossover.
Click to expand...

Thats why I ran into this problem to start with I had the 72 knuckle machined for the crossover but left the 81 knuckle on the driver side.:doah:
 
trav0302 said:
Thats why I ran into this problem to start with I had the 72 knuckle machined for the crossover but left the 81 knuckle on the driver side.:doah:
Click to expand...


I wouldnt worry about two different knuckles causing problems, I mix and match them all the time and havent noticed any ill effects. You do however need the tie rod going in both knuckles from the same direction, either by using matching knuckles or drilling and using the bushing whichever is cheaper/easier.

I try to get both knuckles to come in from the top and use the later model straight tie rod. Its a bit of a pain getting it in because of spring clearance but you gain something like 3 inches of tie rod clearance for free without putting the stresses of high steer on your knuckles:waytogo:.
 
I don't know the thread direction (LH or RH). Heck the thread diameter may be too small, but the 73 to 76 tie rod have bigger threads than the 72 down tie rod. The 72 is 3/4", the 73/76 is 7/8" and the 77 up with the long tie rod (if I remember correctly) is 1".

When I built my tie rod, I used the 72 ends since that is the style with the short ends. The 73/76 had the long tie rod end.

I think the 77 up tie rods with the short ends may still be 7/8. You probably mix a 73/76 end with a (short) 77 up end. You have to make new center.
 
JDNobodi said:
I don't know the thread direction (LH or RH). Heck the thread diameter may be too small, but the 73 to 76 tie rod have bigger threads than the 72 down tie rod. The 72 is 3/4", the 73/76 is 7/8" and the 77 up with the long tie rod (if I remember correctly) is 1".

When I built my tie rod, I used the 72 ends since that is the style with the short ends. The 73/76 had the long tie rod end.

I think the 77 up tie rods with the short ends may still be 7/8. You probably mix a 73/76 end with a (short) 77 up end. You have to make new center.
Click to expand...


The 73+ stuff should all be standard GM truck steering commonly referred to as "1 ton gm TRE's" and is all 7/8ths
 
Yes, but it has the drop because it mounts to the top of the steering arm.
 
JD is correct. The giant long TRE has 1" threads. This is the setup with one TRE 52" long, an adjusting sleeve on the passenger side (bigger than the drag link one) and a short TRE. As far as I can tell, they only came on 3/4 tons 1987-1991 and also some trucks in the mid 70's. The bar seems to be solid, so it's probably stronger than the hollow tie rod with threads in each end. But it's hard to say how strong the adjuster sleeve is if you smack the tie rod. Most sites state that you can swap the two designs, possibly because they don't sell the tie rod itself, but by buying 2 ends and adjuster in the 1" style makes a knuckle to knuckle solution.

It seems kind of ridiculous to replace basically the whole tie rod just because the end is bad, but you can still find them as cheap as $30 (Moog is currently $52) and you can get a lifetime warranty because it's a TRE. So every time you bash your tie rod and bend it or if the threads get all rusted together, just warranty the thing out and have a whole brand new tie rod.

4
 
Holy three year old thread bump.
How did you find this one?
It seems no one was posted till now.
 
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