CK5
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- Thread starter Mark1968
- Start date
IIRC, the hole is drilled/tapped all the way through, not blind, which can come in handy. Look at the back side, see if the hole comes through.
How close to the surface is the break (i.e. is it flush?)
If it's not down inside the hole, you might be able to grind or Dremel a slot through, essentially making it a flathead set screw. Then you clean out the back side with a tap and some WD40 or tapping fluid, and just screw the thing out (all the way "down") with a flathead screwdriver.
You could veeeery carefully drill down the center, then get an appropriately-sized extractor ("EZ-Out") and try to back it out. This is your "tap" idea, but the thing you need isn't a tap, per se, it's ... eh, like these:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc...p-00966202000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
Alternately, if it's not flush and you have a welder, put an appropriately sized nut (1/4" or 5/16" fine thread?) on the remaining heads, weld the center, and use the nut to back it off -- once it's cooled. The welding heat will expand it and make it a b!tch to get out.
Oh, and is the axle in the truck?
-- A
How close to the surface is the break (i.e. is it flush?)
If it's not down inside the hole, you might be able to grind or Dremel a slot through, essentially making it a flathead set screw. Then you clean out the back side with a tap and some WD40 or tapping fluid, and just screw the thing out (all the way "down") with a flathead screwdriver.
You could veeeery carefully drill down the center, then get an appropriately-sized extractor ("EZ-Out") and try to back it out. This is your "tap" idea, but the thing you need isn't a tap, per se, it's ... eh, like these:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc...p-00966202000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
Alternately, if it's not flush and you have a welder, put an appropriately sized nut (1/4" or 5/16" fine thread?) on the remaining heads, weld the center, and use the nut to back it off -- once it's cooled. The welding heat will expand it and make it a b!tch to get out.
Oh, and is the axle in the truck?
-- A
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
The "safest" course of action, assuming the bolt was seized and that's why it broke,
Is to center punch the bolt, then drill it out.
Start with a small bit, and work yer way up.
Then chase and re-tap it...
F*ck that welding sh*t.
If it ain't FLUSH don't do it.
Left-hand bits are great for this job, as they sometimes will grab the bolt and spin it out.
Is to center punch the bolt, then drill it out.
Start with a small bit, and work yer way up.
Then chase and re-tap it...
F*ck that welding sh*t.
If it ain't FLUSH don't do it.
Left-hand bits are great for this job, as they sometimes will grab the bolt and spin it out.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I had to deal with a broken header bolt.
Snapped an EZ-Out off, in the bolt...You will NEVER get passed that.
Tried the weld trick, same depth as yours, all I did was f*ck up the bolt bore.
Just drill it.
That's what Ryoken told me to do, first... I shoulda listened.
Snapped an EZ-Out off, in the bolt...You will NEVER get passed that.
Tried the weld trick, same depth as yours, all I did was f*ck up the bolt bore.
Just drill it.
That's what Ryoken told me to do, first... I shoulda listened.
Mike's right on all counts. I will add that I have had success with the welding method IF the shaft is accessible, IF you let it cool, etc. Lots of if's, I know, which is why I asked all those questions.
I would also spray the hell out of both ends with penetrating oil and let it soak. Other than making a bloody great mess, it can't hurt and should help the shaft come out, whichever direction it ends up going.
And yeah, center punch it good, and drill once. Go easy and don't be in a rush. Once you bust off a drill bit or an extractor, you are basically fscked as they are *harder* than the steel around them.
-- A
I would also spray the hell out of both ends with penetrating oil and let it soak. Other than making a bloody great mess, it can't hurt and should help the shaft come out, whichever direction it ends up going.
And yeah, center punch it good, and drill once. Go easy and don't be in a rush. Once you bust off a drill bit or an extractor, you are basically fscked as they are *harder* than the steel around them.
-- A
you can remove the yoke and work in a vice,or bring yoke to a shop where they have right tools. if you give it a try, a round pipe that fits in the broken bolt hole like maybe 5(16 will help you too center your drill bit. i have and extractor set with different adapters,it really help too have a center hole.
I recall that the yoke on a 14bff has the single-use crush sleeve, so removing it suddenly turns into a giant project of its own. I'd leave it in place unless absolutely necessary to remove.
The pipe down the threads is a great idea though, as I've often bunged them with the drill. I'll hafta remember that for next time (and there will be a next time 
)
The pipe down the threads is a great idea though, as I've often bunged them with the drill. I'll hafta remember that for next time (and there will be a next time
)
drilling from the back would turn it right out the front if you can reach it...
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
14bff uses a crush sleeve, to set pinion bearing preload.
I wouldn't take it out.
Edit: DRemu was faster...
I wouldn't take it out.
Edit: DRemu was faster...
ALWAYS HEAT THE YOKE FIRST if your working on crusty ones . and don't use power tools on them . hand tools slow and steady to feel it move or not.
and newer mopar stuff with tiny headed bolts have loctight on them .
that's a fine thread bolt also so watch drilling it out .
the 14ff yoke is pressed on the pinion shaft .
and newer mopar stuff with tiny headed bolts have loctight on them .
that's a fine thread bolt also so watch drilling it out .
the 14ff yoke is pressed on the pinion shaft .
Fine threads have more surface area to rust together.
and if you drill big enought ,fine tread is a different size bit than a corse tread. in a press drill you can center better,and drill a hole big enought to remove bolt like a spring. only the treads come out. you have too be perfectly center. heat with a cold water bath right after,makes wonders! did the bolt move before braking,or is it seized.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Personally I would weld a nut to it. Build small tack welds on it until its above the surface and then burn a nut on it really hot. Should loosen it up at the same time.
It moved a touch, soaked the hell out of it with pb. worked it back and forth with a wrench. Got mad after getting a face full of rust and put the impact to it. When it broke loose stuff went flying.
Hadn't thought about trying to build up small tacks to get it above the surface. I'll try that first if I have the patience today.
I've had more luck woth the welding trick than using an e-z out or drilling busted bolts,I always seem to end up breaking a bit or e-z out off in the dam bolt and have to either use a punch to chip it out or blow it out with the cutting torch..sometimes when its a thru-hole a cutting torch can blow the broken bolt right thru and out the other side,but it takes a good amount of skill to do it sucessfully..
Welding is difficult when the bolt is in cast iron or steel though,because its very easy to weld it right to the casting instead of the bolt alone...holding a nut over the broken bolt helps sheild the weld from sticking to the casting and helps you focus on getting the weld on just the bolt,then you can fill the nut in and let it cool,and hopefully have it come off with the bolt attached..this is much easier and more often successfull when the bolt is in an aluminum casting ,because you cant weld it to the aluminum,so its the prefered method on aluminum heads with busted exhaust manifold bolts ..
Drilling is difficult because its dam near impossible to get the drill dead center and keep it from wandering off center,especially if the bolt threads into aluminum..I often start off with a bit the same diameter as the bolt was,and use a dremel or carbide cone tipped burr to make the broken bolt square first,then use a center puch or the burr to make a center point to get the larger drill to start cutting centered--then go down to a 3/16" bit and drill thru,and then go up in size until hopefully the remains of the bolt comes out..usually the heat from drilling it will eventually break it free,and once you have a hole thru it it will tend to shink as it cools which will help out come free..
Good luck,I hate getting busted bolts out "in the truck"..it sucks bad enough when you can bring the part to a drill press or milling machine to drill it out..the MIG welder has saved my friend a lot of greif with broken bolts at his shop,once he got the hang of using it to remove them ..
Welding is difficult when the bolt is in cast iron or steel though,because its very easy to weld it right to the casting instead of the bolt alone...holding a nut over the broken bolt helps sheild the weld from sticking to the casting and helps you focus on getting the weld on just the bolt,then you can fill the nut in and let it cool,and hopefully have it come off with the bolt attached..this is much easier and more often successfull when the bolt is in an aluminum casting ,because you cant weld it to the aluminum,so its the prefered method on aluminum heads with busted exhaust manifold bolts ..
Drilling is difficult because its dam near impossible to get the drill dead center and keep it from wandering off center,especially if the bolt threads into aluminum..I often start off with a bit the same diameter as the bolt was,and use a dremel or carbide cone tipped burr to make the broken bolt square first,then use a center puch or the burr to make a center point to get the larger drill to start cutting centered--then go down to a 3/16" bit and drill thru,and then go up in size until hopefully the remains of the bolt comes out..usually the heat from drilling it will eventually break it free,and once you have a hole thru it it will tend to shink as it cools which will help out come free..
Good luck,I hate getting busted bolts out "in the truck"..it sucks bad enough when you can bring the part to a drill press or milling machine to drill it out..the MIG welder has saved my friend a lot of greif with broken bolts at his shop,once he got the hang of using it to remove them ..
