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options on 1984 GMC jimmy

From what I've read,only the '82's had coarse thread injectors...those engines were painted red supposedly..of course anyone could have swapped heads from an '82 on a 6.2 or 6.5,so I suppose the only real way to be sure would be to take one out and look...(which I wouldn't bother doing unless you are 100% sure it needs replacing,it might go 100K with no issues)..
 
New glow plugs and it started in about .5 seconds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you for your advice!

6 out of the 8 old glow plugs read infinite resistance and the other 2 read 1.2. How could they almost all be bad? Did i check them wrong(plug to housing). All the new (60g) ones were between 1.0 and 0.8.

sm 465 to 205 seals.
out put from the sm465 to adaptor. Napa did not have a match.
http://www.quad4x4.com/qu30034.html
qu30034sj.jpg


Made my own.
2014-04-10%2020.07.05.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fras1wmizrrc9uc/2014-04-10 20.07.05.jpg

napa part for the power sleeve at the adaptor to the 205 is 13676. OEM was National 3968050
2014-04-10%2020.07.33.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tn44vjxjutpg39/2014-04-10 20.07.33.jpg

adaptor to 205 seal 0.99 $ plus 8$ shipping.
http://cobratransmission.com/index....014033&zenid=cdf51e5e3f80ef3d86a8368f23d2e954

best price i found for the 205 seal kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370674359722?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 
gird123 said:
6 out of the 8 old glow plugs read infinite resistance and the other 2 read 1.2. How could they almost all be bad?
Click to expand...

Starting fluid is a glow plugs worst enemy.
95% chance that's what killed them.
 
That is what i was worried about. Hopefully the p.o. did not destroy the engine.

Oh well. I will drive it until the wheels fall of then replace the wheels.
 
If the glow plugs were still hooked up to the factory controller system,they may have suffered from a malfunction in the controller--sometimes they stayed on too long or came on after it was warmed up enough not to need them...over-cycling them if used with manual push button also can render them useless..and yes,Ether will ruin them too,and if one happens to break off and land in the cylinder like one Autolite one I had in my truck did,it can do nasty things to the valves,piston and head..my engine now has a clatter till it warms up every time I start it cold after it inhaled that glow plug..I think it kissed a valve,and the push rod may have bent some..sounds like a bad lifter..:doah:

I have had 3 sets of them go south in my pickup,but I do have to use them a lot,doing mostly short trips and many cold starts--but more of them failed from the tab where the wires plug onto them rotting away more than the element not working..in fact I'm still running two glow plugs with alligator clips clamped onto the stud the little tabs fell off of,because they still "glow" ok,you just cant slip the wires back on them..I'll need another complete set soon,the salt eats away the hex portion and whittles them away so bad you wont be able to remove them,long before they stop "glowing"..
 
So, yesterday the batteries were completely dead. Tried to charge, would not charge. Dawned on me that I had just replaced the glow plugs and 6 were infinity ohms. So removed power cable to glow plug starter
solenoid​
and charged batteries, the batteries appear to be fully charged. I think the solenoid for the glow plugs is bad. Could it be stuck on? Hopefully I did not kill a new set of glow plugs.
 
Any relay or solenoid can stick in the "on" position...especially the style that look like a Ford starter relay,they have a piston thats gets moved by the electromagnetic field coil thats wound around it ,to make the connection..it can corrode in there and make the piston stick "on"..

You should make sure the glow plugs dont get power unless your holding the manual button on or after a minute or two if the stock glow plug controller is still intact..

If you bought AC 60G glow plugs,they probably will survive,they are supposed to be "self limiting" to prevent them from getting too hot and melting or mushrooming and making removal a real pain in the butt..it would probably take not that long to kill the 2 batteries if they were left "on" ,I'd guess less than an hour probably..hopefully the glow plugs didn't get fried..there are two fusible links in the glow plug wiring harness ,one for each bank of cylinders,its doubtfull they would melt unless there was a dead short in the wiring though..
 
running great

Everything is running great and the 60gs are working awesome. Had to replace the starter solenoid. Water pump was quite a job and the power steering pump got replaced too. Thank you.

Now I'm trying to do a cross over steering set up. A friend gave me a steering box from a two wheel drive chevy (stamped 7802644) I think it is from a 1976. How can I tell if it is a?
‘67-‘76 (flare fitting, 36 spline input)
‘77-‘79 (flare fitting, 30 spline input)
‘80-‘91 (o-ring, 30 spline input)


Then if I have a 76 I believe the fittings on the hoses (84) need to be changed to match the box (76?) if you could point me in the right direction for that I would really appreciate it.
 
You'll have to count the splines,I dont know if GM ever put date codes on steering boxes,probably not..--as far as the hoses for the pump to box go,that can be tricky...you might be able to use the hose designed for the truck the steering box came off,if its a '76 box it'll have flared fittings,but the diesel's P/S pump will likely have a o-ring metric thread fitting,and you'll have to find the old flared style hose fitting "bung" for the P/S pump,the old flared style bung should screw right in place of the o-ring one....junkyard is the best place to get one..

Some guys resort to buying two pressure hoses ,one that matches the box's flared fitting and one for the o-ring style for the pump bung,and they cut off the end off each one and splice the desired fitting back on by flaring the steel tube section ,or cutting the rubber hose, and have 2 NPT pipe thread fittings (male nipple,female coupling) put on the hose so it can be screwed back together...a shop that makes hydraulic hoses can do that..

I think by changing the bung in the pump you can use a stock hose for whatever year truck the box came from,and not have to resort to doing that..
 
Who might carry the bung replacements For the pump.

And when did they change the steering column? Might just have to buy the right year steering box.
 
I dont know if GM would still list a P/S pump bung,its a junkyard item really--I've never had to go too far to find one,I have a bunch of leftover P/S pumps from engine swaps hanging around..you can also cut off the o-ring fitting from your original P/S hose's end that goes into the pump and put a regular flare nut fitting on the tube and re-flare it...

If you go looking for the correct year steering box,be aware some 4x4's had a splined steering colum shaft end, instead of the "D" shaped one at that rubber bootie flex joint,you'll need that to match up with your steering colum..
 
Wow, the motor mounts suck. Hard to get too. Bought stock replacements but decided to go with ord so I won't have to do them again soon.
 
Yeah,they do,the best time to replace them is with the engine out!..

When I swapped a V8 into my 81 G-10 van that had a 250 six,I had to fab up a plate to move the mount to the right spot on the passenger side,I failed to find the correct bracket in a junkyard search--I had to take the mount off and put it back in about 5 times before I got all the holes drilled in the right place on the adapter plate,it was torture!..
 
fuel filter heater?

Thank you diesel4me for all the advice. I ended up returning the older steering box and getting the 1984 model. Crossover / High steer went very well. Not such a great deal after all the parts I have had to replace, but I have learned a lot.

Ok so I'm back with a question hopefully some one can steer me in the right direction. My gauge idle fuse was popping immediately after replacement. I started removing things from the circuit. When I unpluged the fuel filter heater it stopped popping the fuses? Is there a way to test to see if it is still good? I can't find them anywhere on the web? Would napa carry it?

Thank you,

Nate
 
Both of my trucks no longer have a fuel heater,if they ever did,someone "deleted" them long before I bought them...(same goes for the "secondary" fuel filter)..

In my searches and poking around the internet I dont recall ever seeing any new ones for sale,except maybe one military surplus site that had a few,and I'm not sure which place it was--but I've never gone looking for one either--maybe Rock Auto or some other large stocking warehouse will still list one and have a few..I imagine they aren't cheap,if you do find one...

My trucks always started and ran OK in winter without one,I dont think one is a must to have unless your closer to the north pole,really--just keep good glow plugs in it and the fuel free of water with fuel treatment and anti-gel,it should be OK..if its really cold like below 20,a block heater is the way to go..
 
Cool. Not going to hook it back up.

One more question. I'm planning on removing the oil pressure switch and replacing with a mechanical one. I can remove the sending unit, gauge, and wires right? Looks like on the 6.2 it serves no other purpose than oil pressure. Confused because it appears to do more on the 6.5?
 
As far as I know the oil pressure sender only operates the gauge on my trucks-they have only one wire-maybe the later 6.5's had electric fuel pump(s) and were tied in with the sensor like most gas powered rigs?...

If there is enough space behind the engine you may be able to use a "T" fitting and retain your original gauge or idiot light ,and also hook up a mechanical gauge..I liked having both,because with an idiot light it gets your attention right away,or looking at the dash is easier than an aftermarket gauge mounted elsewhere is...(the oil pressure sensor is different for an idiot light than one for a gauge,and I think there are 2 different ones for factory gauges,they have to "match" the gauge--one goes to 60 psi,the other tops out at 80 psi I think..
 
dash fuse

Ok. So I thought i had the gauge fuse figured out(thought it was the fuel heater) Does any one have the wiring that is feed by this fuse? I removed the coolant level sensor and unplugged the gauges. Removed the fuel heater and it did not blow for an hour. just realized i should check the bundle of wires going to the fuel heater to see if there is a bare wire.

Any other suggestions.

Did my first little rock crawling today and it did great.
 
Ok so i think i found the problem. on the passenger side last cylinder there is a sensor/switch that is shorting both terminals to ground. Fast Idle and Timing Advance switch that is located on the passenger's side rear cylinder head near the firewall?
 
Not sure how I've managed to miss this thread. :dunno:

Welcome to the diesel club :) Don't worry about unplugging the fuel heater, should it turn out to be a problem in the end. It simply allows you to run #2 diesel fuel at lower temperatures than otherwise possible (preventing gelling). '82 and '83 trucks didn't come with them (so they end up running #1 diesel in the wintertime). FWIW, my '83 has been just fine without one (at 20 below zero, even). Where you're located, I doubt you'll have any problems with fuel gelling. Glowplugs (and block heaters if cold enough) are a different story...but it looks like you've already figured that out. :waytogo:

Yes, the fast idle switch is in the location you've described. I don't remember off-hand if it's a grounding or a power supplying switch (leaning toward grounding), but I can go out and measure mine if that would be helpful.
 
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