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options other than a doubler..

supersize75k5

supersize75k5

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this is not really for me, but throwing it out ther for other folks,


found on pirate that a dana 300 will bolt up to a 700r4..


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=569010



I see this having some benifits,

1. one t-case rather than two
2. less driveline size change
3. easier to mount
4. cost? a case should be a hundred or two hundred and the 4 to 1 kit is around 600 or so,


hell it might even work out that the front drive line would stay the same? for guys with a 205 already that might happen with the rear?? or maybe for the 241 or 208 guys they would only have to change the rear or have it coverted to fixed yoke?


seems like alot less hassel.
 
SM465/NP241 with SYE...81:1 with 4.56's.

Why complicate things?

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
SM465/NP241 with SYE...81:1 with 4.56's.

Why complicate things?

Rene
Click to expand...

Auto trans won't match that on paper , but real world at crawling rpms , will perform just the same if not better with the finesse :D
 
tRustyK5 said:
SM465/NP241 with SYE...81:1 with 4.56's.

Why complicate things?

Rene
Click to expand...

if you already have a 700r4, and want to ditch your slip yoke as well as your aluminum case that keeps you on the fritz..this would be a sweet set up.

I have had both an auto and manual many different times, the auto wins out here in az,
 
Outside of Harley who grenaded a 208 , and Marvs mounting arangement with TWO cases ( since rectified ) . How many guys are really destroying their aluminum cases anyway ?

I don't read about it often enough here . Its really just stories about worn out , decades old aluminum cases losing the shift fork most often . Occasionally someone blows a planetary with a truck that has everything but the case rebuilt . And once in a really great while someone kills a tailshousing .

Thats just my opinion based on scanning threads and titles everyday for six years here .
 
pauly383 said:
Outside of Harley who grenaded a 208 , and Marvs mounting arangement with TWO cases ( since rectified ) . How many guys are really destroying their aluminum cases anyway ?

I don't read about it often enough here . Its really just stories about worn out , decades old aluminum cases losing the shift fork most often . Occasionally someone blows a planetary with a truck that has everything but the case rebuilt . And once in a really great while someone kills a tailshousing .

Thats just my opinion based on scanning threads and titles everyday for six years here .
Click to expand...


paul,

simply put removing a slip yoke solves issues and concerns, a shorter drivtrain is a plus when looking at reduction options, less wight is a plus, and a case you can land on or drag is a plus.

last trip out brian was worried about his t-case, so was the guy in the white balzer. land on that case and your having a bad day if it breaks, plain and simple.

blow a rear driveline witha slip yoke..you have a mess, loose fluid, not to mention the 208/241 seals can be a pita with any real amount of lift.. then theri is the list of people who have had to rebuild their 208 or 241 because the foks, guides, yada yada yada..

im not knockin what works, im just talking about another options with some benifits or a nice option if you have a dead or dieing 208/241
 
Im interested in this thread considering I have a 700r4 and a 208. I dont plan on smacking my 208 on a rock anytime soon seeing as I have a skidplate that I use to drag over rocks.:doah: But I do know that the aluminum case is weak (I broke a piece off of my tailshaft housing just trying to get the seal out). And I dont like the slip yoke. Everyone likes lower gears and after many times out, I want lower gear options other than going 5.13's...or a doubler which would require 2 different t-cases and a different tranny. The D300 option looks much cheaper. I briefly read the thread on pirate, but does anyone know what all is necessary to do this swap? Looks like not much and if I can find a D300 case on the cheap I may be able to do this swap and report back (in the near future). What is the best way to convert the u-joint up there to a 1350 like I am running in the rear? I can say that I will be keeping my eye on this thread.
-Harrison
 
BTW- Does anyone know what applications would equip a D300? Seeing as how I am not familiar with this case, what is the gearing as opposed to my 208 with a 2.62:1 low range. What about the shift linkage?
-Harrison
 
Luckily the front output is on the side it belongs on , the pass side . It has a round six bolt flange like a np208 or slip yoke np205 . You can find them in early 80's CJ's . My friend has one behind his 350/350 chev powered jeep .


You are going to spend some cash changing the 23 spline input , and the 26 spline 1310 outputs <------
 
pauly383 said:
Luckily the front output is on the side it belongs on , the pass side . It has a round six bolt flange like a np208 or slip yoke np205 . You can find them in early 80's CJ's . My friend has one behind his 350/350 chev powered jeep .


You are going to spend some cash changing the 23 spline input , and the 26 spline 1310 outputs <------
Click to expand...


where are you getting your spline figures?


from the pirate thread..

"I test a Dana 300 on my NP241 adapter to tell if what I had heard was true. Sure enough it fit with the exception of one bolt hole. That hole was very close to being in line and clearly could be elongated with a rat tail file and work fine. Even the alignment boss is the right size. After getting it cleaned up, I bolted my t-case up to it to check spline engagement. The factory NP241 engages 1.5" of the 4L60E output shaft and the new t-case engages ~1.125". The 27 spline shaft is around 1" in diameter, so I feel confident that this is enough "

ill go digging to find ou what spline the 300, is, bummer if its not a 27 spline, im sure someone makes inputs shaft though
 
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/index.html

http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/dana300/inputgears.html

"Three versions of a 27 spline version are produced. Each of these 3 inputs are made with different overall lengths and internal spline depths. "








The Dana 300 is a heavy duty gear driven transfer case that takes a 23 spline input shaft. The case is cast iron with a number C300-15 and the tail housing is aluminum. The output for the front driveshaft on the Dana 300 is on the passenger side and the rear output is centered. Low range is 2.62:1 and high is 1.00:1. The bolt pattern is the same as many New Process transfer cases, but the drop is on the opposite side. Most New Process transfer cases used on Jeeps have the round bolt pattern and 23 spline input so it is compatible to some extent. The difference is all the New Process transfer cases are drivers drop and the Dana 300 is passenger drop. Some drilling and or tapping may be necessary may be necessary in the transfer case or the adapter to "clock" the transfer case. One bolt hole in the pattern is offset to allow the transfer cases to only be bolted on one way. The other option is to not use the bolt that clocks the transfer case.
One way people modify the Dana 300 is by adding oil paddles to the main shaft. The oil paddles prevent oil starvation of the rear bearing when flat towing. Another possible modification to the Dana 300 is converting it to u-bolt yokes rather than strap yokes. Usage

The Dana 300 was used only in CJs from 1980 until 1986. The first year the Dana 300 was available there was a slight difference from transfercases used in '81-'86 CJs. The 1980 Dana 300 features a shorter tail housing which allows a slightly longer rear driveshaft.
​

still doable..


and this would be fun to put in my 2wd 07 chevy along with a S.A.S. hehe

"Our custom 32 spline input is available to match with the popular GM 32 spline output shaft common to transmissions such as the TH400 and 4L80. "
 
supersize75k5 said:
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/index.html

http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/dana300/inputgears.html

"Three versions of a 27 spline version are produced. Each of these 3 inputs are made with different overall lengths and internal spline depths. "

still doable..
Click to expand...
Yup still doable , with aftermarket parts and a little work . Then you still need to change the output shafts too , 175 dollar front 390 dollar rear .

So some of the working stiffs get to stay with what they got , and guys with really good jobs , or no mortgages etc ( you have both a good job and no mortgage ) can do a dana 300 conversion :laugh:
 
pauly383 said:
Yup still doable , with aftermarket parts and a little work . Then you still need to change the output shafts too , 175 dollar front 390 dollar rear .

So some of the working stiffs get to stay with what they got , and guys with really good jobs , or no mortgages etc ( you have both a good job and no mortgage ) can do a dana 300 conversion :laugh:
Click to expand...

nope not for me..im staying doubler since I have it..

paul your killin me, nope I dont have a morgage, kids, wife, credit cards bills and the like, with the current market and when you purchased you home, my rent should be more than your morgage, my rent weighs in just under a grand and less than 25 percent of my income a month, that keeps me from being strapped and leaves me a buffer, alows me to save, blow money on my work truck and the buggy and what not.

assuming you have not or had never refinaced and had a fixed rate on a 30 year loan you would be spending less than I. which means for the average home owner "funny they word it that way" they dont actually own their home at all, the bank does and owns the majority of it, and they pay more a month than i do renting! Ill wait to buy a house when I find one I can afford that meets my current needs, future needs, ones that has decent garage and a shop or large garage seperate from it. this way I dont sit there for 3 years trying to save up to build a shop..also if it turns out the market takes a crap I will still be locked in with a good rate and have a home that meets my needs so im not screwed. Home ownership is great but not if it makes you a prisoner, also some banks now are doing 40 year fixed from what I hear.

as for the good job, no one gave me my business or handed me anything I went and got it. kind of like people thinking we should feel sorry for the homeless and those in poverty, who made those choices?
 
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blah blah blah ...... you didn't have to write a whole essay about it . I just said its expensive enough some of us won't , and some like you will :rolleyes:





oh and BTW , rent is rent , its still money thrown out each month , you don't get to eventually own the place you rent .
 
Pssst Shawn...you might want to brush that chip off of your shoulder. :p:

FWIW I'll stick with my NV4500/203/205. (married, 2 kids, mortgage if it matters to you.) :D

Rene
 
I have heard from my jeep buddies that the weak links on the D300 are the stock front and rear out put shafts. One friend of mine was going to go with the 300 but opted out because of the cost involved with the 4:1 kit and upgrading the outputs.
 
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