I went from stiff springs with sway bar to ORD + crossover without. It's not terrible, but I take turns slowly. It leans a fair bit. Panic swerving might be problematic. Bump steer is also pretty huge now.
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ORD Crossover Swaybar
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
you have ORD custom springs ? with cross over your bump steer got worse, that doesn't seem right.
Here's an old post I participated in. Stephen from ORD weighs in:
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crossover and bumpsteer
Steering is only concerned with the attachment points. If point A and point B are seperated by 3 vertical inches and you replace a straight rod with a bent rod, there are still 3" of vertical separation. Only way to improve steering geometry is to reduce the amount of vertical seperation
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So no high steer on your rig?
That's not high-steer. High- steer is a tie rod that runs above the leaf springs, to the top of both knuckles
Oh yeah, I remember now. It's been about 10 years since I messed with that...
you could raise the steer arm on the passenger knuckle to help with bump steer
I was running 52's in the front of mine for a while and the lean was pretty fun around town. Different story going through curvy mountain highways heading to the trails 
. I put the ORD sway bar in and it helped a ton. It made the sway back and forth after hitting bumps barely noticeable. I would definitely recommend the sway bar for control on the street with soft springs. Good shocks help too.
I do not think it will help the lean at all. Not sure what would cause that. I am assuming you changed the frame side bushings when you swapped springs?
. I put the ORD sway bar in and it helped a ton. It made the sway back and forth after hitting bumps barely noticeable. I would definitely recommend the sway bar for control on the street with soft springs. Good shocks help too.I do not think it will help the lean at all. Not sure what would cause that. I am assuming you changed the frame side bushings when you swapped springs?
I think it would help with the lean because that's what a sway bar does. I used to have a lean from a bad spring or something (can't remember) and it was less noticeable with the swaybar hooked up. To re-attach, I had to drive the opposite side up on something so the disconnect would line up.
But that's not the right way to do it. You end up with more wheel travel on one side than the other and your steering wheel alignment will be a little different with/without the bar attached. I've always leveled things out by adding short leafs in the packs. You can cut them from junkyard springs or buy something like add-an-inch if it's off that far.
Why do they lean? Who knows, but the springs so close together and so soft magnifies any weirdness. I had never considered that the stiffness of square-body lift kit springs was intentional to prevent things from looking crooked, but that may be part of it. When I first put on ORD front springs, the front of the truck was leaning. Turned out to be a broken leaf in the rear spring. Corrected that and the truck sat level, so it's not always easy to figure out what's cause and what's effect.
But that's not the right way to do it. You end up with more wheel travel on one side than the other and your steering wheel alignment will be a little different with/without the bar attached. I've always leveled things out by adding short leafs in the packs. You can cut them from junkyard springs or buy something like add-an-inch if it's off that far.
Why do they lean? Who knows, but the springs so close together and so soft magnifies any weirdness. I had never considered that the stiffness of square-body lift kit springs was intentional to prevent things from looking crooked, but that may be part of it. When I first put on ORD front springs, the front of the truck was leaning. Turned out to be a broken leaf in the rear spring. Corrected that and the truck sat level, so it's not always easy to figure out what's cause and what's effect.
Idk man, a sway bar is meant to stabilize body roll. Sway bar rates are adjusted to change understeer and over steer characteristics while driving. To say a sway bar helps with lean while the truck is static (like @cheavyk10 asked about) is like saying a steering stabilizer fixes death wobble. Its a band aid.
There's not supposed to be force in the sway bar while sitting on level ground, but if the truck is naturally crooked, there will be. This means it's leaning less than it would without the bar. That's all I was saying.
But to play
. You could make the end links different lengths and tweak the front of the truck straight. If the initial crooked problem was from mismatched spring rates, you would kind of be equalizing them by doing this. However, the problem is more likely one of free arch differences (or bad bushings, etc.)
So when I did all four new springs I changed all the bushings and added a fush kit in the front. I think it would be interesting to weigh each corner of my truck and see if indeed the driver side front is heavier. I still am running the 20 gallon saddle tank on the driver side, which might add to it.
Might be hard to tell in the photos here but the driver side spring is definitely flatter than the passenger side. You can see the wfo spacer I added under the driver's side.
Might be hard to tell in the photos here but the driver side spring is definitely flatter than the passenger side. You can see the wfo spacer I added under the driver's side.
You also need to put 180 pounds (or whatever) of sandbags to the driver's seat to see how it looks to others when you are driving... 
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