CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

ORD Extended Brake Lines

Thanks for all the input. I'll go ahead and make a little room in the hole and pull it up tight to the snap ring.

As was mentioned, these are the brakes, so I definitely don't want to half@$$ it. I came here to make sure it wasn't, because you all are infinitely more knowledgeable than me at this point.

Going to have the wife and little boy in it, plus everyone else on the road, so half@$$ is definitely not on my menu.

Thanks again everybody. I'll post up a couple of pics when I get it buttoned up.
 
Received my ORD extended lines last night, getting ready to install them today.

Just to clarify - the little copper washers go on either side of the banjo? (haven't left the house yet to compare to the factor setup)

stainless-brk-rear2.jpg
 
That's the way I did it. I know absolutely nothing about brakes, but my understanding is they are supposed to act like crush washers to seal the banjo. Hopefully somebody will chime in and confirm. I'd like to be sure also.
 
Right, one washer on each side of the brake line. So you install one washer on the banjo bolt, put the bolt through the brake line, put the other washer on, then screw it into the caliper.
 
Ok, so to drag this back to the top. I finally had a few minutes to work on the Blazer today. I hogged out the metal on the driver side bracket, shot a little black paint and waited about 30 minutes for it to dry. Went back out there and tried to snug the big nut up to the bracket-no good.

Ran out of thread before the nut could pull up tight to the bracket. Now the lines can wiggle around. The only way I can see to make it tight now is to get a new bracket from LMC and go back to the way it was, like my earlier pic, or maybe add another snap ring on the other side to take up the slack. What did I do wrong?
 
take the line off the truck .

hit the hardware store .

grab 1-2 thick fat washers to take up the space and make it tight.

its not structural but need to be tight so the hard line dont wobble around is all as over time it will fatige/crack the hard line.

it great your so up on making sure you have safe brakes . as i have seen some scary stuff over the years as a mechanic . i give you :waytogo::waytogo: for making your rig safe.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I definitely don't want to take a chance with the brakes. Aside from liability issues if something went wrong and I hit someone else, I will have my family in there, so even if it was just us and something failed, it's not a chance I can take.

Looking back, I'm wondering if I shouldn't have just left it like it was in the first pic I posted. It was tight, the nut was tight to the bracket on the frame side, and the hub side was also tight. It just wasn't resting against the snap ring, but rather on the shoulder of that "barrel". I thought about re-using the OEM clip, but I'd have to open it up a little in order to get it to fit the new piece. That just seemed too cobbled to be reliable.

If I can't find a washer with enough ID to fit, I guess if worse comes to worse I could get another bracket and put it back like it was. Does LMC or somebody sell those or is that a rivet grinding endeavor at the pick-a-part?
 
Just make a spacer out of any kind of metal, or hog out a washer to fit. No need to replace the bracket, it won't be doing anything unsafe to put a metal spacer in there, or if theres a groove cut in the ord line for the factory spring clips, use them if they work, neither is better or worse for that particular task as long as its snug in the bracket.
 
the clips work fine... not as sexy as the nuts but good enough for GM...
 
Thanks for all the replies.:bow: I'll get it snugged back up with one method or the other and move on to the next project--crossover steering. Time to drop some more coin on this thing.:doah:
 
Top Bottom