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ORD or DIY shakle flip

Thats great that it works for you guys. Im just saying it didnt work for me. No need to piss and mone about it. Cant we all just get along. The guy just wanted some info so i put my 2cent in that what the sites for wright or wrong.
 
nothin wrong. you must of had a weak set of shackles.

but all info is good info.

this is how i have tested and made a informed choice here before even ever spending any cash . :thumb:
 
Im running a set of belltech lowering shackles and havent had any problems with them. they seem much beefier than the stock ones IMO. I dont think i would have ever broken the stock ones, i just figured id give these a shot.

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Mine never really broke it just folded over almost flat i wish i had a pic of it. Now i run ORD shackles I think they are a little longer than stock and way beefier.
 
the stock shackle isn"t as strong as Kert's and ORD's aftermarket internal... so obviously there was room for improvement...
 
So for the basic ord 3" lift its gonna be like $800. Wouldnt new leafs be about the same with everything?? Why not just get new springs??
 
Deuling said:
So for the basic ord 3" lift its gonna be like $800. Wouldnt new leafs be about the same with everything?? Why not just get new springs??
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New rear leaves are significantly more expensive than a shackle flip.

And it doesn't need to be $800. You could spend roughly $300 on a pair of new front springs, $30 on u-bolts, and $189 on a shackle flip. It's possible to re-route the stock brake lines to help them reach, you'd still need to do something with shocks. The stock draglink will still bolt up but you'll have bump steer without some kind of steering correction.
 
38377k5 said:
New rear leaves are significantly more expensive than a shackle flip.

And it doesn't need to be $800. You could spend roughly $300 on a pair of new front springs, $30 on u-bolts, and $189 on a shackle flip. It's possible to re-route the stock brake lines to help them reach, you'd still need to do something with shocks. The stock draglink will still bolt up but you'll have bump steer without some kind of steering correction.
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Oh so i dont need the pitman arm thing?? I guess i should just call, but i figured id ask. Once again haha i dont know anything about lifting, and what needs to be changed as far as steering.
 
Deuling said:
Oh so i dont need the pitman arm thing?? I guess i should just call, but i figured id ask. Once again haha i dont know anything about lifting, and what needs to be changed as far as steering.
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You don't absolutely need it, but it will be much nicer to drive with a 2" drop pitman arm :thumb:
 
38377k5 said:
You don't absolutely need it, but it will be much nicer to drive with a 2" drop pitman arm :thumb:
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oh yah its gotta drive nice for sure. Ill get it haha
Will the the shackle flip not give it that nasty clunk noise when put in gear that every lifted truck ive ever been in makes??? or is that with any lift??
 
Deuling said:
oh yah its gotta drive nice for sure. Ill get it haha
Will the the shackle flip not give it that nasty clunk noise when put in gear that every lifted truck ive ever been in makes??? or is that with any lift??
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The lift should not be causing a noise like that, that is caused by something else.
 
38377k5 said:
The lift should not be causing a noise like that, that is caused by something else.
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One K5 i saw had blocks and the whole axle housing would move twist forward when put in forward, then back in reverse, not a ton but some. I thought maybe thats why.
 
38377k5 said:
New rear leaves are significantly more expensive than a shackle flip.

And it doesn't need to be $800. You could spend roughly $300 on a pair of new front springs, $30 on u-bolts, and $189 on a shackle flip. It's possible to re-route the stock brake lines to help them reach, you'd still need to do something with shocks. The stock draglink will still bolt up but you'll have bump steer without some kind of steering correction.
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Well that still comes out to 673, and 778 with the pitman arm. And im sure shipping isnt cheap
 
Holy crap this is completely perfect to the T of exactly what i want.
He says 33 mickeys with no lift but looks like he has about the same space up front as mine and a little more in the back than mine, but i have 32's could i just do like a one inch block in front and back to make wide 33's fit and look like this without needing new shocks and steering parts??? Like those zero rate add a leaf things from ORD???

This thing is just so gorgeous.
My dads 91 suburban had the exact same paint job and its my favorite.
Ill post a pic of mine to compare wheel space. any thoughts?

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Deuling said:
oh yah its gotta drive nice for sure. Ill get it haha
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I'm not so sure you do. With a 3" lift, your truck may have an issue with bumpsteer, or it may not, or it could be that you don't mind the bumpsteer and just get used to it.
I, for one, did mind the bumpsteer that my truck developed with the 3" front springs. Installing the drop pitman arm addressed that issue on my truck. Never looked back until I changed the whole axle and the steering.

Lift a Chevy truck with its push-pull steering, and you're gonna make the steering geometry worse. Your options are: do nothing; wait and figure out if you want to do something; install a drop pitman arm; install a raised steering arm; install crossover steering.
 
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drop pitman arm = more cash than raised steering arm.

but 2 good things. better resale value by far and much easyer to install. 1 nut and 1 bolt/nut . not 3 nuts/frozen washers/and frozen arm to knuckle.


and flip kit will make it ride better than blocks or stock setup.

and no ubolts in the rear if flip kit done.

shocks buy local parts store brand with little lookin and get better than lift kit cheep shaocks for basicly the same price. look here for ideas on how to do it. . http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255835&highlight=super+duty
 
With a 3" lift he wouldn't want a 4" raised steering arm, the 2" drop pitman arm is better.

It's better to not quite correct enough rather than have too much steering correction. Our shop Suburban drives great with a 2" drop pitman arm and a 3" lift.
 
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