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ORD swaybar correction disconnect

TJ1978

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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Just installed the ORD swaybar correction/quick disconnect on my truck plus their sway bar bushing kit.

I know most just do away with their swaybar. I figure this is a good way to have both options at hand without totally ditching the swaybar all together.

www.offroaddesign.com

Swaybar Correction and Disconnect System for '73-91 GM Trucks

Swaybar correction and disconnect system for '73 & up straight axle GM
www.offroaddesign.com www.offroaddesign.com

www.offroaddesign.com

Sway Bar Bushing Kit for 1973-1980 GM/Chevy Full Size

Sway Bar Bushing Kit for 1973-1980 GM/Chevy Full Size
www.offroaddesign.com www.offroaddesign.com


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obijuank5 said:
Believe it or dont it actually helps the swaybar work while not making the ride worse for springs that move different than the stock springs.
No reason not to have those for a road rig.
Click to expand...
keep it engaged for the street with the nonstock front springs and the ride won't be super stiff? I hope so, that's what their description says.
 
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82355 said:
Your crossmember spacers are in the wrong place.

Martin
Click to expand...
They are not correct for stock. Correct-ish for the lift and drive line angle.


I've read numerous posts on this. Some say at 4" lift which I have with 37's it is not necessary to move the spacers where I have them. Some say it's fine. When I bought the truck they were located where I have them so I put them back where they were.

I've read as you try to make the rear drive angle less drastic with moving the spacers thus lowering the Tcase angle it puts more stress on the front drive shaft by increasing its angle.

Also, it puts a potential of added stress to the motor mounts. I've read that the alleged stress isn't that much to raise concern. It does add an angle which puts the distributor Closer to the firewall.

so, others here have said much the same. So I keep them where they are as I've experienced no issue thusfar with their present location.

i read others posts that earlier lift kits called for moving the spacers where I have them in their instructions. So, I don't know. The previous owner(s) definitely did some off roading based on what I've found on the truck and the mods done.

but I'm not opposed to moving the spacers. In doing that won't that affect my drive live lengths?
 
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Put them back where they are suppose to be. Take it for a drive. If it drives fine, leave it the correct way. If it needs to be lowered, and you don't want to correct the issue the correct way, make spacers out of bar stock to lower the transfer case. Using those spacers like that is a good way to mess up your frame.

Martin
 
What is the correct way to fix this? It has had the spacers like this for a loooooong time, not saying that this is correct either or justifies it, but...


What is the best way to get them back up? Remove rear driveline or just use a tranny jack to push up the cross member? Will I have to remove that brace bar from Tcase to tranny as well?
@Bent77
@82355
 
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Secondly,
I've read it was for "clamping pressure"
So can someone explain why that clamping needs to be on top of the frame rail instead of where they are now? Seems to me it's the same pressure on the frame once tightened down. Not exactly as the tcase/tranny are on the frame more closely than the space then frame.

I have two grade 8 washers inside the frame rail on each bolt and one on the bottom with two nuts on the bolts.

Having that spacer on top of the frame rail adds that much of a difference in support? I get the weight of the Tcase and tranny are resting on that spacer and not just a washer then frame but if it made that much of a difference why would lift kits say to move them where mine are? And with all the pics I've posted of this truck nobody has really said anything about.
While searching online a lot of people just remove them altogether, or put them where they are on my truck.

I'd like to understand the reasoning behind
"The correct way" I get GM did it this way so you do it this way.... but that's not always the only way.
 
The spacer is for bolt stretch as you found out.
The spacer in between the crossmember and the leg of the frame places the entire load of that bolt on the surface area contacting the frame. It will create stress points within that circle. Those stress points will create cracks.
Cracks will not show up with the two flat surfaces clamped together in the oem position.
If you require that driveline position, use another wide flat surface as a spacer and not just the tiny cylinders.
 
obijuank5 said:
The spacer is for bolt stretch as you found out.
The spacer in between the crossmember and the leg of the frame places the entire load of that bolt on the surface area contacting the frame. It will create stress points within that circle. Those stress points will create cracks.
Cracks will not show up with the two flat surfaces clamped together in the oem position.
If you require that driveline position, use another wide flat surface as a spacer and not just the tiny cylinders.
Click to expand...
Ok I understand.
What can I use for a "wide flat spacer"
I have no ability to fab up anything.

would the wide flat spacer go inside the frame rail?

also I don't think I can even raise the crossmember up anyway because of my exhaust...
 
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I'd gladly pay if someone here as the ability to fab something like @obijuank5 is recommending I use.

Not even sure who I could tag that might be able to help...
 
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It would replace those spacers in between the crossmember and the frame rail. It would be a 2"x6" plate with those two holes in it.

Hell, even 1x2 rectangle tubing could probably suffice as well. Thats last resort though.
 
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