ORD swaybar correction disconnect

[onetonbb74]

I don't run any spacers on the inside of the frame on mine, I did however weld a 12 inch piece of 1/8 inch angle iron to the outside of the framerail on both sides where the crossmember bolts up and drilled the holes to 1/2 inch. I used 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts and stover nuts instead of the 3/8 bolts the factory used. I also mark them with torque seal (paint pen) and check them periodically.

 

[82355]

On later model trucks they combined the nut and spacer, so they can only be assembled one way.



Martin

 

[82355]

Looking back at that picture, it looks like you have plenty of clearance between your exhaust and your crossmember. Why not just jack it up, pull the spacers, and see if you can put it back together the correct way? You can then take it for a test drive, and see if there are driveline vibrations.

Martin

 

[centexk5]

Since replacing the springs, engine mounts, transmission mounts, and trans to t-case adapter, I can’t believe how much this rig sways and rolls now. I’m looking forward to putting the sway bar back on.

 

[TJ1978]

Looking back at that picture, it looks like you have plenty of clearance between your exhaust and your crossmember. Why not just jack it up, pull the spacers, and see if you can put it back together the correct way? You can then take it for a test drive, and see if there are driveline vibrations.

Martin

It may look that way in the picture. But by putting the cross member flush to the frame it will rub or even push up the exhaust running through that area up. The exhaust runs through that space between the crossmember and the cab.
but I'll check again.

Edit: if anything if I stack metal plates as a spacer I may be able to raise it an 1/8 to 1/4 before the crossmember and exhaust become an issue.
There is no way to get the crossmember flush without redoing the exhaust. And I'm not doing this exhaust a 3rd time. I have no $$$ for that.

I've been reading countless posts and even emailed rough country and sky jacker as they sell kits to drop the Tcase. The vast majority of posts from other forums and the companies themselves have reported no issue in the spacers.

some even posting as having the spacers from GM factory being below the frame rail or on top but not between.

so it leaves me confused. I will try to get it flush but I'm still going to try a more stable spacer. I already went and bought the metal and cut it. But no drill press makes this a bitch.

I understand what you and zoo and obijaun are saying and with your posts I understand better, however. I just see very few posts across chevy or even jeep forums reporting negatives.

The spacers have been on this and others trucks for years. Not saying it's right but it is what it is.

just flashing back to the bitch of a nightmare installing this np203 was has me really reluctant to adjust anything.
but I'll give it a go.

 

[ZooMad75]

It may look that way in the picture. But by putting the cross member flush to the frame it will rub or even push up the exhaust running through that area up. The exhaust runs through that space between the crossmember and the cab.

I've been reading countless posts and even emailed rough country and sky jacker as they sell kits to drop the Tcase. The vast majority of posts from other forums and the companies themselves have reported no issue in the spacers.

some even posts having the spacers from GM factory being below the frame rail or on top but not between.

so it leaves me confused. I will try to get it flush but I'm still going to try a more stable spacer. I already went a bought the metal and cut it. But no drill press makes this a bitch.

Just because rough country or anyone sells the spacers as a t-case drop kit does not make it correct. Rough county thinks the spring rate on their 4" springs is ok for a K5 too. Speaking from experience, they are really stiff. Does that mean they are right?

I know you got the concept of why the spacers are wrong. You have a good plan to do it right. Execute the plan and move on to the next project.

 

[TJ1978]

Just because rough country or anyone sells the spacers as a t-case drop kit does not make it correct. Rough county thinks the spring rate on their 4" springs is ok for a K5 too. Speaking from experience, they are really stiff. Does that mean they are right?

I know you got the concept of why the spacers are wrong. You have a good plan to do it right. Execute the plan and move on to the next project.

That is my plan.

And yes, just because a kit is sold doesn't means it's correct. I understand that.

 

[TJ1978]

Well, I wasn't searching for what I want. I'm not opposed to removing the spacers. I wanted other opinions from users and manufactures of the product. I trust the guys here but I still want other opinions. And what others on the net were saying in regards to using the spacers or drop kits was just as convincing as what was being said here.

So, for me and my truck putting the cross member back flush isn't an option. I do have some wiggle room to bring it up a tad. The spacers presently are 1" and if I use the metal plates and I can make that possibly 3/4 to 1/2 space before the exhaust will prevent anymore raising of the Tcase.

but yes ultimately you're right. It's my truck to do with how I want. I just like a lot of opinions on matters especially on topics I'm new to in regards to these trucks.

 

[Wes Harden]

So no matter what you do with the spacers, I would like to know what your t case yoke and pinion yoke angles are. You might need to change the spacer thickness.

 

[TJ1978]

Update, with some DM guidance (thanks @Wes Harden ) I fixed the cylinder spacer situation, hopefully it works out.

yes I should have the bolts the other way but the passenger side exhaust makes it a bit of a pain so to keep both sides looking the same I put them thread down, for now.

 

[ZooMad75]

Much better. Good work!