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ORD swaybar correction disconnect

Ideally it would not be tubing. Just flat plate.
If you do use 1"x2" rectangle tubing it should be as thick or thicker than the frame rail itself.
 
obijuank5 said:
Ideally it would not be tubing. Just flat plate.
If you do use 1"x2" rectangle tubing it should be as thick or thicker than the frame rail itself.
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Can I buy a strip of flat metal from Lowe's and just cut it with a flywheel then stack them to the height of the cylinder spacers, and drill holes for the bolts to go through?

or is a solid one piece more ideal?

is that lame? Jusy trying to figure how I can do this
 
I had mine shimmed @ 1/4" came that way. 4" lift blocks done in 83. My engine mounts were bad so the engine was low at front. Anyway when I replaced the sagged out engine mounts with the Diy4x comp mounts, I put the t case back to stock, the angles where better after.
You really need to measure your drive line angles, and shim the rear axle to match your t case, if you can with out exceeding the u joint limits.
 
Wes Harden said:
I had mine shimmed @ 1/4" came that way. 4" lift blocks done in 83. My engine mounts were bad so the engine was low at front. Anyway when I replaced the sagged out engine mounts with the Diy4x comp mounts, I put the t case back to stock, the angles where better after.
You really need to measure your drive line angles, and shim the rear axle to match your t case, if you can with out exceeding the u joint limits.
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I've read write ups on this and honestly I don't understand it. The truck as is, has run this way for the years I've had it and untold years prior to me owning it.

I'd have to have the exhaust redone in order to have the crossmember flush to the frame. I can't afford that all.


i will do as @obijuank5 suggested and go from there.
 
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Cheavyk10 said:
ORD has that new sway bar out that works with crossover steering.
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I wonder if ORD has one that works with 10-inches of lift on a 1-Ton crew cab? :thinking:
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Only one problem...I have Kurts from DIY4X U-bolt spring plates that would not connect to Steve at ORD sway bar disconnect sytem.
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I guess that is enough of jacking someone elses thread,
 
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1-ton said:
Only one problem...I have Kurts from DIY4X U-bolt spring plates that wpould not connect to Steve at ORD sway bar disconnect sytem.
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I guess that is enough off jacking someone elses thread,
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I believe they have a weld on bung you could use. Haha, at least it’s on the same topic!
 
TJ1978 said:
I've read write ups on this and honestly I don't understand it. The truck as is, has run this way for the years I've had it and untold years prior to me owning it.

I'd have to have the exhaust redone in order to have the crossmember flush to the frame. I can't afford that all.


i will do as @obijuank5 suggested and go from there.
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I think you aren't quite understanding the issue caused by the spacers being on the bottom of the frame rather than on top of it. Keep in mind nobody is saying you don't need to drop the t-case for better shaft angles, but the method on how to drop it could be better.

Look at it this way, if you have the spacers between the cross-member and the frame you are not distributing the weight of the rear of the transmission and t-case to the frame in an ideal way. Using the spacers focuses all the strain in two small points on the frame instead of the entire section of the frame where the cross-member would be in contact with it. Also, think about the twisting force that is going to happen under acceleration. Again, that force is getting focused into a small area of the frame, even if you added a larger washer.

The way the factory installs the cross-member has it directly flush to the frame to maximize contact and limit localized stress to the bolt holes directly. Now that's not to say you can't adjust the driveshaft angles by dropping it down some. How you do it should resemble how the factory did it to make sure there is more contact between the cross-member and the frame. I ended up using some 3/8" flat stock that was just as wide as the bottom of the frame. Add holes to match the frame and bolted in with the spacers on top of the inside of the frame to get the correct clamp load.

There are other ways to do it as others have noted. Does yours need that much drop for the shaft angles? I don't know. I'd measure them now before moving anything and see if they might improve or not by reducing the amount the t-case is dropped.

As far as your exhaust goes, if you end up needing to keep the same amount of drop but done using a better type of shim the clearance to the exhaust shouldn't change since the cross-member still isn't flush to the frame.
 
@ZooMad75
I understand now but even better after your explanation, thanks for writing it out. I want to keep it where it is. I will do what @obijuank5 has suggested to fix this up a bit.

I'm going to Lowe's tomorrow and getting a flat piece of metal and will cut it as needed to have the same space the cylinders are creating presently by stacking them. I don't have a way or know a source to get a solid piece.

I'll drill holes for the bolts to go through. And if needed I will get longer bolts to use the cylinder spacer on there now inside the frame rail.

Keeping the space it has now but done better is my goal. If I move the cross member flush to the frame it will be right against the exhaust if not pushing it up slightly.
 
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I don't know if the angle is bad, good or whatever. There is no vibration or other signs it's not adequate.
I can take a few pics and post them if that helps?
 
TJ1978 said:
I don't know if the angle is bad, good or whatever. There is no vibration or other signs it's not adequate.
I can take a few pics and post them if that helps?
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Actual shaft angle measurements really tell the tale. However, if your shaft angles were out of whack you'd have symptoms in the form of vibrations as you drive. Depending on how bad the angles are you could have vibration under load while accelerating or offload decelerating.

A bad driveshaft vibration is pretty noticeable. If you don't have any in any modes, the shaft angle on the rear may be ok.
 
So are the spacers always required on the bolts on the inside of the frame? Last time I took mine apart the spacers were seized to the bolts, which meant the grinder came out, and so I replaced everything with grade 8 hardware, no spacers. The original hardware was grade 5.
 
Cheavyk10 said:
So are the spacers always required on the bolts on the inside of the frame? Last time I took mine apart the spacers were seized to the bolts, which meant the grinder came out, and so I replaced everything with grade 8 hardware, no spacers. The original hardware was grade 5.
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The factory had them there for a reason. Clamp load with the factory bolts was the reason I was always made aware of. Can shorter bolts be used without them? Sure it's been done by many. Upgrading to grade 8 vs 5 is certainly an upgrade. I'm no engineer to quantify what the difference of clamp load with a longer bolt with a spacer is vs a shorter bolt without a spacer is.

In the scope of the discussion, I'd belive that running short bolts with no spacer is probably less of an issue than running longer bolts with the spacers between the frame and the cross-member.
 
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