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ORD weld-on steering box frame brace.

I wonder if cutting the bigger plate in half right though the center of that plug weld hole, would have allowed better shaping for fitment
ding ding ding ding ding!

from what i saw, would be the only way I could have used that plate. I tried to "deepen" and reform that area, and then so much collateral damage was done to the other areas, that there was no way to compensate and make the bolt hole areas useable again. The one I got looked like it needed a different stamping/form/die to make a useable piece.



-edit- at the time, I also looked at removing that center area, but it would have to be cut almost all the way to the mounting bolt area on either side... and then it looked like there would be no way to keep all the wonky stamped pieces aligned so the box had a good place to mount. easy to make a flat object mount to 3 points in space, but 4 points??? those bolts are under a lot of torque - if things don't mate up nicely, the frame/bolts/box will all be under stress in places they are not supposed to be under? -if that's the case, why did I bother doing all that work to end up with an inferior set up for such an important piece of the machine?
 
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@scouthead
So you just ended welding the cracks and scraped the weld on ORD thing completely? Has it held up?

In another thread I read people having to shave the steering box etc to get everything flush... seems a lot of work for a "weld-on" product.
 
I'm taking it to shop to fix the cracks, and also weld on the ORD steering box weld on product
Thought so, my welding isn't the best. Was going to say I could weld the cracks but it's not pretty enough to weld the brace. ( thanks instagram)
 
Thought so, my welding isn't the best. Was going to say I could weld the cracks but it's not pretty enough to weld the brace. ( thanks instagram)
Ha, yeah but probably cost me a lot less.. hahah. I'm not opposed to your offer.
Let me know
 
@scouthead
So you just ended welding the cracks and scraped the weld on ORD thing completely? Has it held up?

In another thread I read people having to shave the steering box etc to get everything flush... seems a lot of work for a "weld-on" product.
yeah, in my case it looked like a stronger /better option to repair the cracks with my best efforts... grind a V into the cracks... hit it with enough amperage to show a bit of pentation on the backside, and making sure the puddle filled the groove and lapped over just a bit - not removing all the weld bead, but making sure box contact places were flat, and doing some clean up with the flap disc to reduce anything that looked like stress risers... also weld the inside of the cracks where they could be reached. I believe I bolted in the diagonal brace and torqued it a bit without the box in place- left it there as long as I could work around it. thought maybe that would help keep post weld shrinking and stresses limited? maybe who knows.

end product was just the repaired cracks, and the diagonal brace on the inside. also, the diagonal brace bolted in tight to the frame, and did not fit up tight to the crossmember - this actually worked out ok as I used a washer between the brace and crossmember- everything tightened down well without putting a bunch of stress on things, and i kind felt like that might allow the brace and crossmember connection point to flex a little bit when things start twisting up? also don't know, but sounded good in theory.

as far as I'm concerned, once the cracks appear, the original frame material is fatigued to a point where the cracks will keep coming back if not reinforced somehow? but at the same time you don't want to stiffen that tiny area so much that everything around it is cracking?????



It has help up great to light use on 35 inch tires for 5-7 years now... and then last thanksgiving in the death valley area, I abused the heck out of that poor truck. Did things for hours on end that left me saddle sore and aren't exactly what I consider my preferred "bang for the buck" wheeling... unfortuenately until we go over the boulders and down the trail, and over the other boulders, and the other boulders, and the other boulders, and the others, and the others, and the others.... there was no way of knowing what was at the end. My k5 did everything the 4 door log arm Rubicon did, and did it with more flare and style... couple of tricked out v8 cherokees were less worried about damage, and as they passed me they dubbed big blue "THE BEAST"...

I was happy to get the thing home in one piece without a tow truck getting involved. as far as I know the frame is still fine, but it may be time to scrub it down for an inspection.
 
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@scouthead
Thanks for information. I'll see what the shop says and if it becomes a real pain to get brace on properly, I'll just ask them to weld the cracks.
 
Am I wrong in thinking some washers under the box mounting feet would alleviate the mounting issues? Surely, you'd still want to be close, but I don't think the box being 1/4" left of where it started would be a deal breaker. I think we've already discussed longer bolts.
 
this is the area that was worst. I could torch/ pound and weld things to the frame as needed, but this area... the steering box hit this before the box could get anywhere near to touching at the mounting pads where the bolts go through. tightening would have been futile. the box would have broken, or the bolts would not stay torqued, or the box would have broken in the future.
View attachment 441250
You can add me to the list too. Got mine 20+ yrs ago from ORD and never put it on my ‘89 because of this.
 
Am I wrong in thinking some washers under the box mounting feet would alleviate the mounting issues? Surely, you'd still want to be close, but I don't think the box being 1/4" left of where it started would be a deal breaker. I think we've already discussed longer bolts.
Maybe? thought about that too, but the one I had had some misalignments of the bolt holes and the areas that the bolts pass through were kind of domed shape. I did not like the hot mess it was about to create, and I aborted.

I'll just box the frame and pass sleeves through next time. correct order of operations might even make it a reasonably straight forward repair too.

I basically did the same thing to my old FJ55 when I put the power steering box from an FJ60 on it. Frame was already boxed, but needed the sleeves for the box to reach clamping force.
 
Every one i have done i use 4 bolts and nuts to clamp down the plate like the box is there . This lets you work it in to shape also .
There is no shaping it. With or without heat. The domes sit like 1/4” off of the dimples. I don’t know which manufactures version it is but it fits like crap. Somewhere I have a fiberglass impression I made of my frame. I was going to send it to ORD along with the weld-on plate but never got around to it.
 
Every one i have done i use 4 bolts and nuts to clamp down the plate like the box is there . This lets you work it in to shape also .
so how did you deal with the casting of the box hitting the steel patch before the mounting tabs were seated? washers between box and frame patch? torque and pray??
 
Am I wrong in thinking some washers under the box mounting feet would alleviate the mounting issues? Surely, you'd still want to be close, but I don't think the box being 1/4" left of where it started would be a deal breaker. I think we've already discussed longer bolts.
I welded washers on mine to space it enough to fit.
I forgot about that part.
I thought mine needed that because of how bad my frame was messed up.
I guess now I know it was the stamping
 
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