CK5
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Overheated my 4L80E on the way to Moab.

I thought you had it in the bag at 2 checks.
Pretty rough weeks, I hope you and Christy found some way to at least enjoy Moab
 
My new trans got up over 200 heading up the hill from rifle. I am going to order a aluminum trans pan and see what that does. Your covers dot com has a late model pan that should clear the xmember no problems. Really happy to see Daisy back to rolling again!
 
This is a main reason why I bypass the radiator cooler if you haven't already.

All that does is preheat your fluid to 190, then your aux cooler is struggling to bring it back down.

Large aux cooler with no radiator in the system and it probably won't get hot.
 
Where did they order the trans from? Curious because I'm in the market for a 4l80.
 
This is a main reason why I bypass the radiator cooler if you haven't already.

All that does is preheat your fluid to 190, then your aux cooler is struggling to bring it back down.

Large aux cooler with no radiator in the system and it probably won't get hot.

and trans guys and fluid experts will tell you to cold can be just as bad .

gm looks for 140* to let you get lockup on there electric trans vehicles .

if your this concerned with temps get a thero flow switch to help get it warm and then if to hot makes it go cooler only . https://www.summitracing.com/search...emote-oil-thermostats?N=4294950709+4294882595
 
I came from a family of trans experts.


Which is why I bypassed the radiator. There is no need for it, especially in the south where it's hot. Canada sure, Moab not so much.

The tranny without the radiator cooler will warm up at roughly the same speed as the engine does if your driving. So drive easy until your engine is warmed up, and your fine. Ideal tranny temp is 175-185*. Anything hotter than that is doing damage.
 
The tranny without the radiator cooler will warm up at roughly the same speed as the engine does if your driving.

No sir, that is not the case. At least not with my fat block truck. (700R4)
I have the sender for my trans temp gauge in the pan. It takes a while to get the transmission anywhere close to engine temps. And it only has the cooler in the radiator. The only time in its life that I have ever gotten the trans over 200* was screwing around climbing Imogene Pass, 4-lo with too much 2nd gear action and speed up/ slow down stuff.....
I do have a manual switch for lock-up.
 
I'm pretty sure I'll be looping my radiator cooler in as well. The fluid takes far too long to warm up and when it's hot it's not cooling well enough IMO.
 
I am a huge fan of the radiator cooler, the water pulls heat away much better than just air ever will, our testing has confirmed this. Best way to cool is radiator first, then air cooler and back to trans.
Do you ship trannys?
 
On my new engine install, I elected not to go through the radiator on my trans cooler because I put one of those brand new cheap Chines OEM plastic radiators from a parts store in my truck. I do not trust those to not to spring a leak in the trans fluid tub, and put trans fluid all in my engine coolant passages.
 
On my new engine install, I elected not to go through the radiator on my trans cooler because I put one of those brand new cheap Chines OEM plastic radiators from a parts store in my truck. I do not trust those to not to spring a leak in the trans fluid tub, and put trans fluid all in my engine coolant passages.
But atf is such a good rust preventative...
 
true, its getting antifreeze in the trans that's a killer.
I also agree with using the engine radiator first, then an auxiliary cooler after.
My 99 4L80E has to be driven for 25-30 miles before then temp gets up to 150*. Without the engine radiator I don't know how long it would take to get up to 150?? This is in the summer months.
I've gotten up to 200* a couple times, but if it gets any higher I pull over and let it cool down for a while (only happened one time in CO. pulling 10-11000 lbs.) I have almost 240K on this truck, and if treated right the 4L80E is a very good trans.
 

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