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Overkillz Dune Truggy Build

One thing I did find out today is that a 2wd th350 only has about 4" of slip on the slip yoke :eek1:

Pretty sure my 208 has about 6....


Do you guys think if we center the slip yoke at 2" engaged that will be enough slip up and down??? Or should it be closer to one side (in or out) :dunno:
 
You are planning on beating that thing in the sand, suspension will be compressing just as much as expanding. You want as much of the yoke possible in the end of the trans with the suspension unloaded. You don't want that yoke coming out at speed during a jump or whatever. It'll totally ruin your day. A driveshaft loop isn't a bad idea under this circumstance.

You can use bumpstops to control the compression side of the suspension which will also limit yoke travel into the trans.

Ideally, a longer yoke would be best.
 
The yokes a good 6" long. Its the tranny that only allows it to go in about 4".
 
I see. Set the suspension at full compression, put the yoke in all the way then pull it back out 1/2 inch, then measure for driveshaft length. Mark the slip yoke with a sharpie. That should give it some breathing room for axle wrap, bumpstop compression, other variables.

From there you can then unload the suspension (frame supported, axle/tires hanging), then slide the yoke out to meet the measurement you took earlier. Mark the slip yoke again with a sharpie. That will tell you how much the yoke will pull out when the suspension is unloaded. If you still have some room to slide the yoke out safely you can shorten the driveshaft measurement as needed for additional breathing room.
 
Deuling said:
One thing I did find out today is that a 2wd th350 only has about 4" of slip on the slip yoke :eek1:

Pretty sure my 208 has about 6....


Do you guys think if we center the slip yoke at 2" engaged that will be enough slip up and down??? Or should it be closer to one side (in or out) :dunno:
Click to expand...

Look at the end of the output shaft coming out of the trans, many truck trans had a bolt on yoke with the slip in the driveshaft. Look for a hole at the end with a thread in it. You may be able to get a bolt on yoke from the junkyard and convert it. You may need the tailshaft housing too, check for differences there, it could leak out the splines too. For what you are doing I would want the bolt on yoke.
 
I think it's a stronger setup, as far as breaking trans tailhousing, to have the slip in the shaft and bolt the front yoke onto the output shaft. The vertical force is rough on the tailhousing when you land from a jump. You can also get more slipyoke length that way.
 
The shaft that was on it was a slip yoke in the shaft style. But that was for a th400 which had the flanged yokes. the th350s dont from what i hear, and they have them in the tailshaft.

We would use the other one but the a$$hat PO chopped the shaft in half when he pulled the motor, instead of disconnecting it :eek1:... :doah:
 
I realize they didn't offer that style on the TH350, but it's easy enough to do yourself, unless some as$hat cut the driveshaft in half to remove it.:rolleyes:
 
throttleissues said:
unless some as$hat cut the driveshaft in half to remove it.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...


Pretty much... I mean come on, its a freekin slip yoke for gawd sakes, just pull on the tranny a little when removing if you were too dammed lazy to take the 2 straps off the axle :doah::doah::doah:

Dumba$$ :rolleyes:
 
I went to look at an early 70's Camaro rolling chassis years ago that was for sale. It was a solid, pretty rust free body, I look down in the empty engine bay and see the subframe is all hacked up where the motor mounts would be... The guy who was selling it had torched the subframe around the motor mounts to pull the engine out!!! It had to be more work than taking the bolts out... It's amazing sometimes what people will do.
 
Got the gas tank done. Was an old miramax fuel cell or something. Welded some patches on, seam sealed the tops just to make sure it was sealed. Also welded the old fill neck to the plate after hole sawing it out, and welded 4 90*s on the corners to hold it down. Then put some rubber underneath the tank on the frame rails and sucked it down. Its nice and tight.

Painted it and my buddy made a stencil for the Overkill Kustomz thing. He spelled it wrong but still looks badass :thumb::haha:

truggy 1.jpg

truggy 6.jpg

truggy 2.jpg
 
Moar :D

If you didnt already guess the color scheme, well this is it lol.

We will do the frame and cab in a silver, and do all the cage in lime green. Should look pretty bitchin.

truggy 3.jpg

truggy 4.jpg

truggy 5.jpg
 
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