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Paging Boat guys.....transom r&r tips/help

does the transom "plane" where the motor mounts extend thru the side areas to the hullsides on the inside?
 
should be like this:

fetch
 
that's a much much more involved job than a flat transom.. fair amount of surgery there... and glasswork... plus you need to carry your glasswork/finish over into the well, etc..

after pulling the motor, you need to access the inside in the back thru whatever hatches/openings are available and check the extent of the rot on that main transom, and the construction jointing where the transom extends out the back...

in reality, the correct repair is to replace the whole transom plane of the motor, from hullside to hullside.. than retab the rear extensions to it where needed..

when you can get a chance to investigate more, take any pics you can of the inside, and I can explain what tabs to cut, etc... I hope it's got a couple reasonable access's in the back, doing that all externally is gonna be tough...
 
you may very well need to pull the deck depending on your access... :doah:

Yeah I might end up doing that.

It won't be a fun job from the looks of it. But it should be doable with the top cap on.

Yeah I've got to get inside and poke around and see how far the rot goes. In a week or two I'm gonna start on it hopefully.
 
Got er in the garage. Did some quick poking around. Looks like roughly the center half the transom is soaked most of the way down.

In the worst of it I can jam a small screwdriver through both layers of wood. And the fiberglass is letting go from ghe rotted wood.

Didn't look behind the pump for the tilt/trim to much. But I'd assume it will be the same.

It looks less intimidating now that I've looked at the inside.

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Got the motor off, drilled a couple holes in the deck to check the stringers. The center one is badly rotted. So did a quick removal of the floor to look at the rest. Looks like itll be getting stringers as well.

We built a little jig same height as the trailer, worked slick sliding the boat off. Its resting on the 2 outboard stringers.

Also bought a west systems fiberglass repair book, lots of good reading/pictures/diagrams to go with it.

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Also bought a west systems fiberglass repair book, lots of good reading/pictures/diagrams to go with it.

I run all Gougeon Bro's fillers (West) when I'm making mud, my own blends of hi/low density, etc.....

I haven't run epoxy in yr's tho... it's real nice for beginners cuz it's very user-friendly, and not nearly as finicky or volatile as poly.... not super viable in a repair business tho with it's long cure times... 5 times stronger than poly tho.. 3 x's vinylester..

but it's also way expensive, about 5x's the cost of poly...
 
Undecided what I will use yet.

Just figured for the couple bucks the book was it would give a guy an idea.

Looks like $110 a sheet roughly for marine grade fir ply up here. Haven't priced and other plies out yet.

Also one of my buddies from our local 4x4 club used to build crab boats. So he's got some good tips to help me out with as well.
 
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