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Patina Baja Buggy

just make sure your transmission builder knows what the heck they are doing, and use good parts. most garage and yard mecahnics do not and should not attempt to rebuild those. special jigs and tools necessary.

also, Drive like the the reverse gear is made of glass and positioned right over the top of the main gear cluster and would rain down on the rest of the expensive internals should it shatter...

-because it is, and it will.
 
everybody talks about how light duty the parts are on VWs... but as a whole, the vehicle is a marvel of engineering. dont drive like a jughead and you will be amazed at the amount of abuse and use they will put up with offroad.
 
so the blue one was the parts car and the white one is being built?? what year is the white one- could see anything that gave away how the front end identifies...

ball joint?



also, might want to start keeping steering boxes off those parts cars... hard to find. expensive. even the chineknees ones.
 
the type 2 joints are an easy upgrade and worth while if you have stock parts to use... have 2 friends that have been abusing some nice German ones for many years now. i assume the drive flanges on the trans are already type 2??
The white car is a 1968 based on the serial number. I have rack and pinion with a 6" beam kingpin front suspension going on the white car. The blue car was also converted to rack and pinion but is ball joint.
 
The white car is a 1968 based on the serial number. I have rack and pinion with a 6" beam kingpin front suspension going on the white car. The blue car was also converted to rack and pinion but is ball joint.
nice- you ever seen the aluminum adapters that bolt to the frame head and changes the tubing spacing- allows you to bolt a link pin beam to a ball joint frame head??
i have a pair, and have always wanted to use them... but not as a singular mounting solution. looks like they would make an excellent jig to hold your beam in alignment a few inches further forward. Then get a cage and tubing connected to it, and completely remove the frame head - just chop off everything forward of the bulkhead hump. then you will have no clearance issues with the tie rods... aaaaaaaand being that your beam is a few inches further forward, you can now use 1-2" longer trailing arms on the beam, and not have issues rubbing tires on the fenders and frame head????

more travel, no ball joint nonsense, and more room to work on everything
 
Many of the Manx type buggies do that build cage to beam and eliminate the head.

Longer control arm is for front beam is on my list of future mods
 
A little bit of an update. Front suspension mounted with the aluminum adapters. Rear is mocked up but needs modifications to be mounted properly.
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And the old ball joint beam went into the parts car to make it a roller again. Motor was also pulled, note it can be resold.

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Had a 69 beetle with fenders cut like that and 225 75 15. stock width beam and trailing arms, tires were inside the fenders.
 
How many cages you doing ?? DOM, is spendy spendy, wouldn't hrew be just as good, providing the design and welding are top notch ?
 
And some progress on steering. Had to machine the input shaft on the rack from a keyway to a double D. It will get a support bracket to keep it aligned.

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This Manx Buggy rolled into a steep valley, at our 2019 Big Bear event. As I understand it just once. Dad and his teen age son walked away with nothing more then a minor bruises from the belts. The tow recovery broke the windshield and put the crack in the hood.

Bruce Meyers talking with Dad and son, made the statement "the windshield didn't break did it" I don't know for sure but I believe the single hoop is the same hoop the Manx Kit comes with.
 
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