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Performance water pumps and radiators

J

joshkbomb

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My water pump has started leaking coolant all over the place (hopefully it lasts until next week when I'm off work!) so I'm in the market for a new one and figured I would replace the radiator while I'm at it.

I noticed that Napa has the regular water pump (pn 43099) and a performance version (pn 43099p). Is it worth the upgrade?

Same question on radiators. I don't want to get a universal one, just something that will drop in the stock location. Oreilly has three all are aluminum/plastic: 1 core radiator (pn 433716), 2 core (pn 433730), and a 3 core (pn 436016).
 
Only they can tell you if there's a difference in those water pumps. My guess would be reman vs new or 1 yr vs lifetime warranty. I doubt there's a difference in flow.

As for the radiator, get a 3 or 4 core but hold out for an all metal unit. Modine is an excellent brand.
 
nvrenuf said:
Only they can tell you if there's a difference in those water pumps. My guess would be reman vs new or 1 yr vs lifetime warranty. I doubt there's a difference in flow.

As for the radiator, get a 3 or 4 core but hold out for an all metal unit. Modine is an excellent brand.
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Both pumps are new and have a limited lifetime warranty. I just noticed the performance pump says it's impeller is cast iron and the regular one doesn't say. That might mean the regular one is one of those crappy stamped steel impellers.

All aluminum direct fit radiators are all $600. The most expensive O'reilly one is $270 (which I'm not sure is worth it).
 
Champion radiators are not $600, right around $200. All aluminum.

They are, of course, Chinese. But I don't think even griffin direct fit radiators are "that" expensive. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-8-70013/overview/year/1986/make/chevrolet/model/k5-blazer Although the pic shows an angled inlet, not sure thats right, or even matters.

True copper/brass radiators are through the roof on price last I checked.

Water pumps, who the heck knows anymore. The rebuilders cut so many corners anymore that you can't be certain what they are until you take them apart.

If I were looking for a water pump for Christmas I'd probably ask for a Stewart. Edelbrock also makes "performance" water pumps, however their tech support failed to answer a question I posed to them about a water pump they made, so not sure you'd get much help. But it did use a cast impeller with the plate on it to keep flow up.
 
The cheapo parts store one has the stamped impellar. Still seems to cool my 400sbc just fine. The cast impeller would be better balanced im sure and i bet the bearings last longer.
 
dyeager535 said:
Champion radiators are not $600, right around $200. All aluminum.

They are, of course, Chinese. But I don't think even griffin direct fit radiators are "that" expensive. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-8-70013/overview/year/1986/make/chevrolet/model/k5-blazer Although the pic shows an angled inlet, not sure thats right, or even matters.

True copper/brass radiators are through the roof on price last I checked.

Water pumps, who the heck knows anymore. The rebuilders cut so many corners anymore that you can't be certain what they are until you take them apart.

If I were looking for a water pump for Christmas I'd probably ask for a Stewart. Edelbrock also makes "performance" water pumps, however their tech support failed to answer a question I posed to them about a water pump they made, so not sure you'd get much help. But it did use a cast impeller with the plate on it to keep flow up.
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I sent Champion an email to find out if it really is drop in. They say it needs to be "saddle mounted" and I'm not sure what that means.

I also sent Stewart an email to find out what kind of impeller they use and which one I would need. I think because my truck has V belts, I have to get a standard (clockwise?) rotation pump. According to Stewart at least that stopped in '86. I'll have to be careful to make sure I get the right rotation whichever brand I get.
 
If Stewart screws up, that would be a shock, all they were doing for awhile was pumps lol.

Saddle mounts are how our radiators are mounted. Champion was installed on this build: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299819&highlight=champion I'd PM him and ask about fit, or do a search and see if others had luck about mounting. On my Dads (big block radiator) the Chamption was a bit short for the mounts, but it was a pretty easy fix. For the price it was worth the work.
 
After reading all of the stuff about after market radiators, I am so glad I found a decent, original 4 row. Had it rodded and rebuilt by old school radiator guy. Truck has never been above 180 degrees. Don't know what I will do if it dies.
 
38377k5 said:
Why replace the radiator if it's not bad?
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I was having lots of overheating issues this summer which left me less than confident in my radiator (which is several years old and has been repaired a couple times). Basically it works, but just barely. Since the water pump is over 60k miles I was planning on replacing it next summer with the radiator as peace-of-mind, but the water pump forced my hand.
 
Hey Josh,

Summit has direct replacement water pumps made by a company called Flowkooler. They cover the back of the impeller with a disc which improves the flow quite a bit(20-30%) Ive used them for several years and noticed about a 10 to 20 degree drop on my big block.

Also check out Alumorad, www.alumorad.com They make all aluminum radiators that work pretty well and are reasonably priced.
 
One thing I remember on the champion is that the heater hose fitting has a really small diameter hole. Forgot to mention that earlier. There are ways around that (drill/tap, use water pump fitting as heater hose outlet), but it is something to consider. I want my heater to be hot. :)
 
Flowkooler uses "anticavatation" disks or spelled similar. Its not so much that it improves flow, but reduces bubbling. Basically the same thing but not exactly. I have one in my BB with a 4core copper radiator and windstar fans. Mine will idle for an hr with neither fan on and only reach 220 or so on the gauge and sit. Fans take it down to 180 where it stays.

Your overheating could be your fan clutch or if you dont have a shroud as well. I ran a 14 and 12in separate elec fans on mine before I switched to the Windstar fans and it would overheat, now its all good.
 
I was in the engine bay taking measurements for the radiator and I noticed I still have the A/C condenser in there. My A/C died 6 or 7 years ago, so I should probably take it out to improve air flow. But then there will be nothing between the new radiator and the bugs/dirt/snow coming in through the front grill. Is this an issue, or should I just leave it in there?
 
454Sub said:
Flowkooler uses "anticavatation" disks or spelled similar. Its not so much that it improves flow, but reduces bubbling. Basically the same thing but not exactly. I have one in my BB with a 4core copper radiator and windstar fans. Mine will idle for an hr with neither fan on and only reach 220 or so on the gauge and sit. Fans take it down to 180 where it stays.

Your overheating could be your fan clutch or if you dont have a shroud as well. I ran a 14 and 12in separate elec fans on mine before I switched to the Windstar fans and it would overheat, now its all good.
Click to expand...

I decided to go with the NAPA performance water pump. It has a cast iron impeller and mentions that it has less cavitation, so I think the design includes the disk. But, it also has a lifetime warranty and I can just go down the street to get a new one.

I already have an HD fan clutch, five blade solid fan, and a fan shroud.
 
I have the Stewart aluminum Stage II and the Orielly 3 row aluminum/plastic radiator in my 1988 small block Burb. It has a 180 degree thermostat and factory clutch type fan. Being in Texas and loving my A/C I have become something of a needle watcher on the temp gauge. This is the coolest running square body truck I have ever owned, and even in line at the bank or other drive thru in 110 degree heat with the air blowing this truck never ran over 200 degrees. You can say what you will about these types of radiators, but I figure if every OE manufacturer is using them in every vehicle built today, they have to be worth a look.
 
My go to choice:
57688.jpg
 
I always left the condenser in, for fear of something puncturing the radiator from the grill. And even though the AC died, it can always be fixed. And it does add value when it goes up for resale.
 
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