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Permatex 26346....test results are in

readymix

3/4 ton status
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I have come face to face with another issue in the repair of my exhaust.
Money, and the lack of it. :doah:

With that said I was wondering if anyone has ever used this stuff with any success? I don't expect for it to be a permanent repair, but I would love for it to last at least a month.

The crack in my manifold is where the forward rivet is on the passenger side manifold heat shield is. Somehow the manifold broke in half. The crack is about 1mm wide and does a complete 360 around the pipe.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ir/Permatex_Hi-Temp_Metal_Repair_Compound.htm

I could not find anything stories through Google about a success or failure story. Hopefully somebody here has a little good news for me.
 
I've seen the "normal" orange stuff work on the exhaust. No idea how it doesn't burn, but it hasn't.

Permatex isn't a fly-by-night company, but how a ceramic based compund can handle expansion and contraction of the base material (which is why they crack in the first place) is beyond me.
 
If the manifold is cracked all the way around (cracked in half?), I personally don't believe anything will really fix it well. But what have you got to lose? It sounds like it could "help" for a while.
 
The manifolds do that -- note that your local GM dealer has them in stock, to the tune of two or three hundred bucks mind you. (At least that was the case a few years ago.)

Oddly, the local junkyards didn't have any good ones ... they all break under the heat shield... but they did have an aftermarket replacement part, for a hundred and change. Which still hurt, but it's better than two or three times that for one you know will break.

Anyway, won't help you now, but when you do replace it, for once, don't use a GM part =))

-- A
 
I replaced these a few days shy of a year ago. They were aftermarket ones from 1aauto.com.

They will warranty them out, but I am way to busy at work to be dealing with the shipping and all that other crap. My last one did not break under the heat shield. It was where the #8 cylinder pipe heads forward. Cracked in half right there.
 
I wonder if the bolt holes aren't drilled out a bit more, if the cracking wouldn't stop. A little late now of course. :)
 
It might have helped. That is a good idea.

I am going to get the Hedman 69830's but money is just to scarce right now. Living away from my family is putting me in the financial hurt locker. Hopefully I can have some saved and get them next month. I don't want to put anything on the credit card.
 
I hear ya. Not sure if you saw it or not, but hedman is starting to release stainless versions of their headers, hopefully there will be some truck ones in the near future. So far selection is non-existent, but they ARE showing a couple sets on their website, albeit for Dodge's.

I may snag a set of these if/when they come out in a set that fits our trucks. They even list coated stainless. :)
 
Quick update here....

No one around here carries the permatex stuff I listed above, but one of the parts counter guys sold me some stuff that he said he used before, with success.

I had no suck luck.
It went on pretty well, but while I was driving it back to the barracks (5 miles) I smelled the worts rotting fish smell ever. Now it is all flaking off the manifold, but at least it is back here where no one can break into it.
 
Here are a few phone pics of what I found today. Since the epoxy was crap, anyone think I can pull of welding this with my MIG (ER70S6)?

Manifold.jpg

manifold end.jpg
 
Heat it with your map torch and try it. I would wrap it in some weld blanket if you can snag some from the yard to let it cool nice and slow. It is already broken what is it gonna hurt other than your loss of time which I know is quite scarce right now.

Dik
 
You could get some of that high temp steam pipe rubber used in sound mounts. You know the orange stuff. That stuff and a hose clamp should get ya home:D

Dik
 
Beer is happening now that I am done.

I think the root cause was the extremely thin part of the casting. Anyone know if that is normal? I would think not.
 
Beer is happening now that I am done.

I think the root cause was the extremely thin part of the casting. Anyone know if that is normal? I would think not.

I thought that was odd, maybe that is the price difference with the aftermarket ones. But, then again, the factory ones cracked also just in a different spot.

Doing a little internet searching leads me to believe to Mig cast you need big preheat, special nickel wire (just like stick welding cast), and a slow cooldown to prevent cracking.

If you have access to a stick machine or a TIG you can use nickel rod and burn it right in.

Dik
 

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