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Phil's '88 Big Blue Build Thread
- Thread starter Phil513
- Start date
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Its always worthwhile to throw a pinion seal in. They usually wont leak until you get some miles on it lol. Easiest to do once its under the truck since its around 250ftlb torque. Nice score on the 14 bolt. Disc brakes ftw!
I'll probably go through the drums while it's off the truck. I'll think about disks later, the whole "no more emergency brake" thing is a bit confusing for me. You can only get one type of Caddy caliper for it?
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah drums are fine. I just prefer discs. Its a pretty simple and cheap swap. meh on the E brake. There are caddy calipers, which arent cheap and i dont hear many good things about them...as in they wont stay adjusted right. I did regular k20 front calipers on the rear....pretty much standard issue. I dont really miss the E brake myself, although id use it if i had it. Some people get the newer 14 bolts with the e brake but if im in a situation where i need an e brake i just keep a chalk with me. At some point ill add B&M's hill line lock but thats pretty much only for trail use and quick shopping stuff as it has a solenoid that will drain the batt.
Should I look for a used set of 16" or 16.5" wheels? Or, with tire selection dwindling, should I just get aftermarket 17" rims?
I'd like to stay with a factory style wheel, but I'm wondering long run if that's the smart way to go. Pretty sure I'm going to move up to 37" tires BTW.
I'd like to stay with a factory style wheel, but I'm wondering long run if that's the smart way to go. Pretty sure I'm going to move up to 37" tires BTW.
I like the 16.5" wheels with the cheap 37" military tires.
Don't you have some newer 15" tires?
Martin
Don't you have some newer 15" tires?
Martin
Yeah. But I was thinking I could probably sell them and that would offset the cost going to 37's.
I'm still thinking of just eventually springing for a Dana 60, and i don't want to deal with grinding calipers. lol.
I'm still thinking of just eventually springing for a Dana 60, and i don't want to deal with grinding calipers. lol.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
17s ftw. Or at least anything you dont have to grind with. I just dont like the idea of grinding down calipers.
I'm with you on that one.
If I haven't mentioned my logic yet, I got a quote here in Vegas to regear my 10 bolts for 1700 bucks.
I got my 14 bolt for $150. I figure that leaves me with $1550 to spend on a Dana 60. Then I have done my regear, and got tons as a bonus.
Most Chevy Dana 60's go for right at $1500 around here.
Make sense? lol.
I got my 14 bolt for $150. I figure that leaves me with $1550 to spend on a Dana 60. Then I have done my regear, and got tons as a bonus.
Most Chevy Dana 60's go for right at $1500 around here.
Make sense? lol.
There is nothing wrong with grinding calipers.
Martin
Martin
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Not at all. I just didnt want that kind of fit. If I had a small bend in a 17 it wouldnt cause an issue on a trail.
If you *ever* plan to buy newly manufactured tires, avoid 16.5" rims like the plague. That size has been obsolete for quite a while, and the cheap military tires comprise almost all of the replacement tire market. 16" is still common. I have seen folks re-welding 16.5" centers to 17" outer rims. So that is one way to get OEM-style 17" rims.
Or you could do like Ryoken and start stockpiling a lifetime supply of military tires.
Is there a reason that you suddenly wanna drop the coin on a D60 instead of rocking the 3/4-ton setup? Has the truck's intended usage changed? Or is this just overkill?
I think it's just cost.
Thus the "if I can swing it" qualifier. hahaha. We'll see. I might text the local K5 club guy if he knows of a Dana 44 available.
