CK5
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picked up a 1960 studebaker

Good work! Looks nice.

Are those engine`s any good?
I guess they must be ok or you wouldn't bother with it.
 
Good work! Looks nice.

Are those engine`s any good?
I guess they must be ok or you wouldn't bother with it.
Thanks and from what I've read so far they are good little motors where they lack in power (90hp) they make up for in simplicity and all around toughness. People say they're built like a tractor motor and have strong bottom ends. When I first looked at the car the owner started it up from dead cold and it barely cranked before it fired up and not a puff of smoke from the exhaust, it idled and revved extremely smooth, the v6 in my 2008 dodge charger with 160k miles bucks around like crazy compared to it. And it runs this well without ever having an oil filter which I'm going to add on.

Also I've never had anything with a flathead motor and by not doing a swap I can focus more on the suspension and interior which is in the most need of attention. I am also planning on swapping in a factory OD trans to make it better for cruising.
 
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Thanks and from what I've read so far they are good little motors where they lack in power (90hp) they make up for in simplicity and all around toughness. People say they're built like a tractor motor and have strong bottom ends. When I first looked at the car the owner started it up from dead cold and it barely cranked before it fired up and not a puff of smoke from the exhaust, it idled and revved extremely smooth, the v6 in my 2008 dodge charger with 160k miles bucks around like crazy compared to it. And it runs this well without ever having an oil filter which I'm going to add on.

Also I've never had anything with a flathead motor and by not doing a swap I can focus more on the suspension and interior which is in the most need of attention. I am also planning on swapping in a factory OD trans to make it better for cruising.
Inline flatheads are cool little motors and will definitely grab peoples attention when they see them
 
My brother found an overdrive 3 speed for his '41 Champion in AZ for 75 bucks,I think it costed that go ship it to MA!...it was a good upgrade,he could use the car on the highway without winding it out..

I recall the '55 Packard the boss had at the junkyard had a 327 c.i.d. engine,that was a straight 8 flathead..it had a 4 bbl carb and it could screech the tires at 35 mph when you floored it,and it went into second gear...car weighed 3 tons too!..those straight 8's had some good low end torque...Buick had one in the 40's with factory dual carbs,I have an Audel's manual showing how to adjust the "secondary" carb,so it kicks in a 75 mph!...:eek:..most cars then could not even hit 70 wide open!..
 
Making progress, picked up a very clean T96 transmission with the R10 overdrive unit, my cartridge style oil filter canister came in, and I put the car up in the air to begin the suspension work.

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Might be better to not add an oil filter, and just change the oil more often. A lot of those early engines don't have strong enough oil pumps to deal with pumping through a filter. Adding one can starve the rest of the engine of oil pressure/volume and lead to bearing failure.
 
Might be better to not add an oil filter, and just change the oil more often. A lot of those early engines don't have strong enough oil pumps to deal with pumping through a filter. Adding one can starve the rest of the engine of oil pressure/volume and lead to bearing failure.

From what I've read so far about these older cartridge filters is they're considered partial flow systems and they are supposed to have a flow restrictor on the inlet side for the very reasons you mentioned, basically a metal insert with a smaller diameter hole than the line itself through it.

This keeps pressure in the system and oil saturates the filter element at a fairly slow rate and gravity feeds back down via the oil filler tube on the block.

I'm probably still going to add it on but keep an eye on the oil and pressure until I can verify it's all working properly.

I have seen full flow systems added on as well but requires some machine work on the pump housing.
 
I ordered wheels about a week ago and have been watching the shipping progress like a hawk and today they finally arrived so I went straight to the tire store after work and had them mounted up.

May not be everybody's style but I'm very happy with them and it didn't cost a small fortune either.

17x7 dorman steelies wrapped in 215/50r17 they're about 1.5-2" shorter than the factory size so will drop it a bit but not affect the speedometer greatly.

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front at full bump

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but the rear is where it's at

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I'm not saying I think you should, I was just curious your intention. I'd like to see a full profile shot once you get it back on the ground and outside.
 
So due to the lack of space to run a typical 4 link setup in the rear and my unwillingness to carve up the Stude, I've been designing a parallel 2 link system with maybe a pan hard bar (if it needs it) that consists of poly bushings at the original front leaf spring mount with a section of tube running to a plate with holes for u bolts welded to a wristed tapered bearing spindle that runs perpendicular to the axle tube.
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Wait what the hell am I talking about, it might sound confusing but it's really no different than those pivoting leaf spring mounts used to gain articulation.

This was an early drawing before I realized I wasn't go to need the bend in the tube. I have all the parts ordered so just waiting until they arrive.
The crosshatch area is threads for adjustability. At my projected ride height the links will be nearly parallel to the ground so it should give good road manners.

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I also put it back on the ground for a couple pictures

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