CK5
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picked up a 1960 studebaker

Some new progress on the car, I had to modify the caliper brackets to correctly offset the Wilwood calipers but no big deal.

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Got some Taylor 10.4mm spark plug wires in blue to match the car and as you can see cleaned up the valve covers to paint them.

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Got a few more brackets from Dirty Dingo to mount 98-02 F body accessories to the truck block.
That's a camaro power steering and water pump and I'll also have a low mount camaro alternator just below it.

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And after a lot of thought as to how I was going to fit the rear tires under the car I decided to narrow the ford 8.8 axle approximately 3" and run a short side shaft. This is pretty common with these axles and really isn't too difficult.

I plan on sleeving the outside with tube once I have it welded back together for added strength but doing this will allow me to fit the 255 tires on 17x9 wheels completely under the original sheet metal. I really should have done this sooner before I welded on the new perches but carrying on.

I stuffed a rag inside the axle tube where it meets the housing to keep debris from getting in there as well.

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I know alot of guys drill out the rossett weld and press the long side out, chop it and press/weld it back in.. Any particular reason for not going that route with it?
 
I know alot of guys drill out the rossett weld and press the long side out, chop it and press/weld it back in.. Any particular reason for not going that route with it?

Didn't even occur to me actually, did some searching and found a good write up on this cut method. But also I'm not setup to press something this large as well as having to pull the carrier and all that. I'm going to sleeve it a full 6" on either side of the cut and also drill a few holes in the sleeve to plug weld it.
 
I think it'll be fine.

I think so too, obviously the most critical part is getting it as straight as possible to prevent binding at the bearing or splines. Along with the tubing for the sleeve I also ordered a 1 foot length of 3"x3"x.5" angle iron to clamp both piece to as a fixture.
 
It'll def be fine, f body guys have sleeved many 8.8 with 10 bolt outers. I was just wondering the reasoning on it.
 
Got more billet goodies for the motor, coil brackets and an oil pressure port to run the gauge sender.

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Picked up a shaft this morning from the pick n pull.

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And I have a cam package on the way so I decided to upgrade my rocker bearings with a summit trunion upgrade kit. Quality is nice and for $130 it's good piece of mind. I also bought their install tool, a HF arbor press and was able to get it all together without much trouble.

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And mocked up the rear with some blocks to get an idea how this thing will look.

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Spent today on the transmission, installed a corvette servo assembly and B&M shift kit. The servo is super easy the only scary thing about the shift kit is the check balls but all were accounted for.

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My camshaft kit came in on tuesday and I got right to work disassembling the motor to install it along with new valve springs and hardened pushrods. I posted over in the newer body style tech forum that I couldn't get the original cam out past about the 4th lobe due to some apparent obstruction. Well tonight my worst suspicions were realized when I pulled the rear cover off the motor in an attempt to maybe see what the hangup was or remove the cam from the rear. It turns out the 2nd to rear most camshaft bearing is seized on the camshaft preventing it from getting passed the other bearings.

I bought this motor from pacific fab which offer a one year warranty on the motors so I immediately sent off an email with pictures and an explanation so I will wait to see what their response is.

There's two open areas to see the camshaft beneath the valley cover so I was able to pull the shaft rearward far enough to see the seized bearing.

It's frustrating, unfortunate and a disappointment but these are used motors and I will wait to see how pacific fab handles the situation before I pass any judgement.

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Damn. I read your other thread and wondered if you could get an eye on the bearing somehow like an older gen engine. I'm not too familiar with the LS internally.

I hope pac fab stands behind it.
 
Sorry for the luck on the motor and hopefully they stand behind it for you. If not, be sure to let them know a lot of eyes are watching this come together:whistle:.
 
After some back and forth I was able to work out a resolution with pac fab on the motor and they exchanged me for a 5.3 short block in much better condition than the 4.8. I've already pulled the cam and it came out smooth and without hesitation...the way a camshaft in good condition should. While I was there picking up the motor I also grabbed a comp cams double roller timing set and pac fab's high volume oil pump as kind of a might as well since the motor is apart anyway.

I ended up spinning the motor upside down to allow the lifter to fully retract, one was still hanging low even with the dowels in place.

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The 5.3 did come with heads but one was damaged from the accident the donor vehicle was involved in. Basically it was T-boned and the exhaust manifold was struck which cracked the aluminum head. But here's the 4.8 head and the 5.3 head side by side to show how much dirtier the 4.8 was and down where the head bolts were there was some heavy carbon build up as well. Even if it passed all their tests I think they should've looked at that motor a bit more closely and any that appear to have been neglected as there was also some rust forming in the waterways whereas the 5.3 is spotless.

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All in all I am happy with Pacific Fab and would buy from them again, it was unfortunate but I don't believe anywhere near the norm for them or the motors they sell.
 
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