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Pics of my Dana 60 14BFF Install

I was actually going to give you a hard time about removing the 2500 badge and still having auto hubs :D

When I got the burb painted I put on new moldings, the 2500 are in the shed right now. I need to put them back on.

That is still my 10bolt in there. I got the 14bff done and put in and I'm up in the air about buying of those D60 NOSs in the for sale forum, or just going through the one I have. At $1500 for the new one without a locker in it, I'm probably just going to go through the one I have and put the ARB in it.
 
Road Update!!

Ok...here is the scoop. After I got all the axle and suspension conversion dialed in, I went to work on the motor trying to firgure out why in the h e l l it has about 90 rwhp. I started out by changing the injectors (new gm). That helped tremendously down low. It used to stutter in reverse...eliminted that. I bought a new ignition module....went to put it in...opened the distributor and almost puked. Total ball of rust. Put the module in. Not any noticable difference. Got a new coil, plugs and plug wires. Old plugs were gapped at 50+ thousands. Old coil was flopping around in the epoxy its mounted in....couldnt be helping it. Replaced all that...installed new plugs gapped at 35 thousandths. Truck ran like a million dollars till you got it stretched out on the road in high gear and hit any type of incline. Then it would just fall on its face. I said...WTF. Might as well replace the distributor at this point. Ordered a 40006 from Jegs for $150.00 and put it in last night. Took the truck for a drive and HOLY CHIT! It runs like a bat out of hell! It will bark the tires if you smack it off the line. It will set up there and cadillac at 70mph with the cruise on on 37's with the 4:56's. It is a totally different truck. My wife and Wyllis (my St. Beagladoor Retriever) hit the road at daylight this am headed for the mountains. Pulled into the campgound where my rv is 165 miles from home about 2.5 hours later. Truck drives like a dream. The 37" claws ride like michelins. So far...it is doing EXACTLY what I wanted it to do for us. I am going to hit the trails tomorrow. Here are a few pics up at the camper....and Wyllis dreaming of Cheeseburger on the way over. It rides so smooth...everybody went to sleep. The speedometer is 5mph off. I took a pic of the GPS and the speedo to get an idea.

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Few Pics in front of the Toy Hauler. The pics are all poor resolution....they are all cell phone pics.

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Here are a few more. The last one is a pic of my (Mini Crawler). It is my Rhino that I spent literally years (its a 2004) building in various stages. It currently has +6" longtravel, beadlocks, and a 1000CC V twin EFI rotax. It has power steering, billet rack and various other upgrades. It has about 5,500 miles of trail riding on it and has been on just about every trail in the southeast US. It was the first UTV to conquer the "Widow Maker" in Harlan County Ky.

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truck looks good out and about... stance looks good...

throw some headers and a couple TBI mods at her and she'll love ya... glad she ran good...
 
Ok, here is a pic of my better half....she got pissed that I posted a picture of Wyllis and not of her. I told her if she had been in the back seat asleep with a cheesburger by her head.....I would have posted it!:D

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truck looks good out and about... stance looks good...

throw some headers and a couple TBI mods at her and she'll love ya... glad she ran good...

Thanks Man! A couple of people online have recommended zero rates in the rear. But, when you see it in person, I just don't think it needs it. It is dead level. It looks alot better in person than it does in pictures. I just don't want it any taller than it is now.

What do you recommend for headers and throttle body mods? I saw a Jet adjustable fuel pressure regulator in Jegs. I haven't had a chance to hook my wideband o2 up to it too see if it is lean anywhere. What are you running on yours?
 
I've got the full CFM Tech setup right now.... tbi and injector spacer,adj reg, tb, power charger and my old injectors (didn't want to splurge when I knew I'd be changing em out when I went 383)

about 15 psi....


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believe it or not, I saw the biggest improvement, other than pres, from the dang salad bowl! that powercharger really wakes up the tbi..

as for headers, eh, lots of opinions on that... also dependent on if you need emmisions..

I'm a fan of a tri-y, or a long tube if you can get away with it.... personally, I'm thinking of going with some stainless Hookers.... they don't have the A.I.R setup I want, but I'm in the marine biz and have a friend who can add the bungs.. then I'll do a heated O2 down in the collector....

if i decide to not go with the long tubes, I'll go with some Thorley's.... the tri-y is a nice setup, quality header....
 
Good info RY. I need to do some reading on your parts. Are you still 350ci displacement with stock internals? What fuel pressure does the stk setup make? I dont need the A.I.R. stuff. I just need an 02 bung and I can put it in even in stainless. We do it in CMI marine headers all the time.
 
yeah, i'm just running the stock 100,000 mile 350 mill.... i'll be reworking and swapping over the tbi stuff to the roller 383 I'm doing in a year or 2...

are you in the marine biz?
 
No. I went broke blowing up motors that I built myself. I finally gave up and went to someone that could do it. He was in the New Orleans area and lost his home and business when Katrina hit. Me and the rest of my boating buddies convinced him to move to TN (he had built all of our motors at this point) and now he lives right down the street from me. With the economy kickin it the last few years, we all did some pretty big powerplants. I have an OL with 1100 quadrotors. I have learned so much from him and also figured out what I was doing wrong. I can buid one now thanks to his guidance and showing me where I went wrong. I never have any issues other than routine maintence with my boat engines now. As a result, I am DYING to do a naturally aspirated 598 for the burb. I need to sell some crap and see how much I am going to have to write a ck for to the IRS before I get into the motor project. I figure I have 3 or 4 mths before I get rolling on it. That's why I was trying so hard to get the 350 to run good even if it is for a short time. I have the best welder....so he comes to my shop to weld bungs all the time. How about you?

On a side note, I have the capability to program MEFI 3 and 4 series ECM's.....so I think I am going to do a mefi 4 with a 4500 style TB and use basically the same setup my buddy does on his marine stuff.
 
i'm a full service marine mechanic.. motors, gel, electronics, diesels, glass, yada, yada.... I use to work on a fair amount of killer offshore stuff back in the day, 46 skaters, alot of Fountains, etc... haven't played with the hotrods in quite awhile now... but there's a ton of it at the Joysey shore here..

I mostly work on 30' to 60' pleasure and fishing rigs type stuff these days... alot of express cruisers, sportfishes, etc... Sea Rays, Hateras's and such...

my hotrod boat days are what made me decide to do a cogged belt setup on the 383 I'm doing... don't see much of that running around on the streets! :crazy::wink1:
 
Ok, here is a pic of my better half....she got pissed that I posted a picture of Wyllis and not of her. I told her if she had been in the back seat asleep with a cheesburger by her head.....I would have posted it!:D

/hi5 the misses for letting you build nice rigs! :D


And the burb does look pretty level, you may not need the zero rates.
 
I'm blown away by your power descriptions from your 350. My crate 350 (unknown age) with 33's and 3.73's is a dog. No way it would chirp the tires EVER.

Wonder if one of the things you changed on yours would help mine. And mine has been recently tuned up with new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, etc.
 
There are different 'crate' 350's out there... and a lot of time, perceived power loss isn't as much a function of the engine but more in the way the tranny is performing or set up.
 

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