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PLEASE LOOK!!!! TV Cable is Set! but need help still with idle in D AND R

BIGBLAZE433 said:
also can i use a piece of pipe...just cut it to the right length then put the bolt through?
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absolutley.. just make sure the pipe has a thick enough sidewall so its not being pulled thru the holes of the bracket or intake.. i'd still run a flat washer on top and bottom of the pipe piece, so the pipe doesn't cut into the bracket or intake...
 
i was thinking about having it towed..but its only a 5minute drive from my house....not sure what to do
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
i was thinking about having it towed..but its only a 5minute drive from my house....not sure what to do
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if i take it easy should i be fine?
 
also i dont mean to bug u but do you think you could tell me the size of your spacers?
 
one other little thing for ya..

one reason your cable may not be disengaging is if you still have it hooked up to the TB. remember i said you wont have enough adjustment.. if its hooked up it may be all the way out and not be able to be released... unhook it from the tb and try it.. you could even take that end out of the bracket totally and try to release it.. that way it'll be out in the open and not down in the bracket..

those D buttons can get a little stiff and stuff... might wanna try a little lube in there to free it up... once you get it disengaged, put it back in the bracket and go from there...
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
also i dont mean to bug u but do you think you could tell me the size of your spacers?
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they're buried to far down in there for a measure.. but if you look at that pic and compare them to bolt head, they aren't that big. appear to be between 5/8" and 3/4". its not that critical.. you just need to raise it some to help that angle and distance... the cable adjustment will make up for any little variance in that height...

i'm telling ya, flat washers will be the simplest... take way less time than finding and cutting down the right size pipe.. plus it'll give a more stable base for the bracket to sit on...

i'm not gonna tell ya to drive it... i can't advocate that... yeah, sure, if your real close, baby it, and the cable is not too outta whack, ya might be ok.. but i can't advocate it, you can hurt the tranny in a hurry with that cable not right...
 
ryoken said:
one other little thing for ya..

one reason your cable may not be disengaging is if you still have it hooked up to the TB. remember i said you wont have enough adjustment.. if its hooked up it may be all the way out and not be able to be released... unhook it from the tb and try it.. you could even take that end out of the bracket totally and try to release it.. that way it'll be out in the open and not down in the bracket..

those D buttons can get a little stiff and stuff... might wanna try a little lube in there to free it up... once you get it disengaged, put it back in the bracket and go from there...
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ok...well i think i am goin to put the spacers and then have the tranny shop install and adjust the cable...do you think i`ll be able to drive it down there or should i have it towed?
 
ryoken said:
they're buried to far down in there for a measure.. but if you look at that pic and compare them to bolt head, they aren't that big. appear to be between 5/8" and 3/4". its not that critical.. you just need to raise it some to help that angle and distance... the cable adjustment will make up for any little variance in that height...

i'm telling ya, flat washers will be the simplest... take way less time than cutting down the right size pipe.. plus it'll give a more stable base for the bracket to sit on...

i'm not gonna tell ya to drive it... i can't advocate that... yeah, sure, if your real close, baby it, and the cable is not too outta whack, ya might be ok.. but i can't advocate it, you can hurt the tranny in a hurry with that cable not right...
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ok...i might try and baby it....i had already driven it a little not knowing that the tv cable was the problem so i hope i didnt ruin anything:eek1: :eek1: :confused:
 
In theory if you don't go faster then the tranny needs to go until it shifts ie. stay in first gear then you should be fine. The TV cable controls the shift points and lots of other stuff. I drove mine with it adjusted wrong for awile it was a long drive to the tranny shop but it was only a little off it wasn't shiftong as hard as it could. I had adjusted it and the tranny shop did the fine adjustment for me.
 
why not just pull the spacer and run w/o it? Sounds like this is troubling you quite a bit, are the performance gains really enough to worry about it? You could sell it and probably lose less than the cost of the shop work. JMHO
 
ok i got the spacers in and when we took out the cable we got it to disengae so we put in back in the bracket and turned it open to WOT and it clicked and came out...i havent driven it yet but should i still take it to the tranny shop to have it adjusted?
 
1985_K5_Silverado said:
A 5-mile flatbed tow should be around 40 bucks (in this part of the world, anyhow).

How much does a 700R4 rebuild kit cost?
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i like that comparison...the reason why i dont just take it out because i will run into clearance issues with the fuel lines....also what did u guys do with your cruise control bracket?
 
One of the POs had left off some of the cruise linkage pieces. I like cruise control, because without it, my heavy foot gets me tickets on the road (highway travel). However, all of the other CC stuff was still on the truck, so I went for the edelbrock #1484 GM CC kit for the perf carb (~$18) and the missing linkage rod came from a visit to the boneyard ($5), and now my CC works just great.
 
1985_K5_Silverado said:
One of the POs had left off some of the cruise linkage pieces. I like cruise control, because without it, my heavy foot gets me tickets on the road (highway travel). However, all of the other CC stuff was still on the truck, so I went for the edelbrock #1484 GM CC kit for the perf carb (~$18) and the missing linkage rod came from a visit to the boneyard ($5), and now my CC works just great.
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well with the spacers in the bracket doesnt line up..do i need it hooked up?
 
good.. glad to hear...

if you think the tv got set, take it for a ride and see how it shifts... if your questioning it at all, drop in and have em check it.. certainly alot cheaper than the new cable install/ setup would have been..

cruise can't help ya with.. don't remember how mine was setup and ditched it along time ago...
 
ryoken said:
good.. glad to hear...

if you think the tv got set, take it for a ride and see how it shifts... if your questioning it at all, drop in and have em check it.. certainly alot cheaper than the new cable install/ setup would have been..

cruise can't help ya with.. don't remember how mine was setup and ditched it along time ago...
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hey thanks for the tips and info you saved me tons....do i need it hooked up???....if i dont use it???and if i did it probly wouldnt be accurate
 
no prob man, glad i could help ya..

you definitely don't NEED the cruise... its a personal preference thing... i took mine out to ditch some of that clutter.. just make sure ya plug that vacuum line to the ball... golf tees work nice for that.. :wink1:
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
hey thanks for the tips and info you saved me tons....do i need it hooked up???....if i dont use it???and if i did it probly wouldnt be accurate
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You don't need to hook up the CC, but just save the parts and stick them on a shelf, because you never know how you might feel in the future...
 
1985_K5_Silverado said:
You don't need to hook up the CC, but just save the parts and stick them on a shelf, because you never know how you might feel in the future...
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thanks again guys!:bow: :bow: :bow:
 
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