CK5
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Plz help.. 10 bolt vs free 12 bolt.

Just to point something out; 14bolt full floaters are 1 ton 8 lug, and with 31" meats that pumpkin is gonna look massive, let alone you'll drag it on everything you drive over. There's also the fact you'll need to convert your front 10 bolt to 8 lugs (or carry two spare tires).

Why lock the front? I run a 10bolt/12bolt combo and both are open carriers, my truck does fantastic out on the rocks in Moab UT, sometimes a little bit of slip is a nice buffer preventing you from breaking drive train parts ( I detonated my rear limited slip 10 bolt with 33x12.50 BFGs by playing stupid doing a simple burnout on pavement :doah:). Sure I will eventually swap in a D60/14 FF combo as most do, maybe install an ARB locker in the rear; that way if I need it all I have to do is flip a switch, but note that I pan on running 37" tires with steep gears.

If your going to stay with something around the size of 33s an open 12 bolt will do just fine, if you want to go any bigger that 35/36s then future proof your rig with a 14 bolt FF...personally if the 12 bolt is free AND has matching gears, why not?:dunno:
 
Ty for you input. Kinda what I was thinking. in 12 years of beating my truck my front and rear with 250000 on them still didnt die, soo I like what you said. ty
 
I dont plan bigger then 35s in my trucks future. 33s are it total goal. but the free 12 bolt may go in now ty soo much for you help.
 
ty soo much. I have an answer. ty soo much. im gonna get a membership some how and post my 12 year build lol. How to get a Jimmy too 4 thousand pounds and street legal lol
 
adding one tons is not the way to shed weight for sure. chromo shafts and quality joints "should" be fine for 33's. my built 12 bolt held 35's with no problems........that was after 2 sets of 10's. a semi floating 14 is quite a bit stronger than a 12 or 30 spline 10 and weighs a little less that a full floater too. they can be had with 6 lug axles too i think.

aluminum rims, take off the top, rear seat, glass fenders.....etc, will help get the weight down.
 
Why lock the front? I run a 10bolt/12bolt combo and both are open carriers, my truck does fantastic out on the rocks in Moab UT, sometimes a little bit of slip is a nice buffer preventing you from breaking drive train parts :dunno:

Wheeling in Moab is a far cry from wheeling in New England, as evidenced by the "Crown Vic wheeling in Moab" video that was posted recently. :D Wheeling up here usually consists of tight trails through forest and typically wet and slippery ground and rocks. Open diffs usually don't get very far without a winch up here.

I do agree though, if the OP is gonna stay with 31 or 33" tires than the 12b aint horrible to stay with, mainly because you don't have to upgrade the wheel/tire package to 8 lug along with the front axle. Has Stock Jimmy considered the 14b semi float 6 lug axle upgrade? That may be the best choice for that truck and the use. :dunno:
 
The only reason to replace a 10 bolt with a 12 bolt is if the 10 bolt is broke, or if the 12 bolt has better gears. There isn't enough of a strength difference either way to make it worth the effort of swapping it otherwise.

Martin
 
Ty you all again. I am gonna start saving my pennies for the 14ff and Dana60. It will be a long wait :) But I can still have fun on my 10 bolts till then lol. ty you a ton again. ps wheeling in New England needs lockers hehe I love it here :) Have a good all.
 
just get the 14b when you can, lock it, and be happy. Even run mixed rims for the time being, until you get either 8 lug outers or a D60. Remember, a locked 14b wont break, and well help your 10b front move the truck along, instead of one rear and one front pulling the truck.
 
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