4" and 35s has always been my go to for an on road truck. My tailgate is just right, dont have to hike your pants up to get in.
CK5
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POLL: WHAT SIZE OF LIFT AND TIRES SHOULD I DO?
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
beags86
Eastbound and Down
When I did 3" and 33"s on my burb it rubbed. That was with 10" wheels and 3.75" BS though. Stock steelies would have cleared I'm sure.
I vote 4", zero rate, put the axle 1" forward and do 35"s. It shouldn't ever touch anywhere even if you do wheel it then.
I vote 4", zero rate, put the axle 1" forward and do 35"s. It shouldn't ever touch anywhere even if you do wheel it then.
My opinion, since you say you want a leisurely DD rig, is that properly-working stock suspension makes for a pleasant ride. You already have plenty of lifted trucks, so having one that's "normal" would fill out the collection. Yes, stock-height rigs can go offroad, too.
If you still want a lift, and you want it to be nice on the street, stick with a mild lift. Even my 3" w/ 33s is enough modification to make a noticeable difference.
If you still want a lift, and you want it to be nice on the street, stick with a mild lift. Even my 3" w/ 33s is enough modification to make a noticeable difference.
You also had a very soft spring rate. Other folks run 3" w/ 33s and do not have rubbing issues. Not that I think my springs are better than yours, I'm just pointing out that his results may be different than yours.
H20 Toie
1/2 ton status
My sub has 4" lift 33" tires and no rub and no trimming but i always preferred 35's and just trim the inside edge where no one notices
I think the 10" wheels with 3.75" bs had more to do with hitting than the spring rate, but that probably didn't help lol. And after massaging the lower rear part of the wheel well lip with a rubber mallet it never hit there again.
My 3 setups I've had over the years:
89 k5 with no lift and 35s. Some trimming required in front. Not as much as you'd think it needed.
Same truck, same tires, but now a 4" lift. Front fenders and inner wheel wells replaced with new, uncut ones. Street driving it was fine. Went offroad 1 time and almost destroyed the front 2 tires. 35s will hit the fenders with a 4" lift if you have flexy springs (Tuff Country EZ ride, no sway bar)
86 M1009 with 4" lift and 37s. Front trimming required for street driving. Never really wheeled it, but I'm sure it would have needed more trimming in front.
So I voted nekkid of course
89 k5 with no lift and 35s. Some trimming required in front. Not as much as you'd think it needed.
Same truck, same tires, but now a 4" lift. Front fenders and inner wheel wells replaced with new, uncut ones. Street driving it was fine. Went offroad 1 time and almost destroyed the front 2 tires. 35s will hit the fenders with a 4" lift if you have flexy springs (Tuff Country EZ ride, no sway bar)
86 M1009 with 4" lift and 37s. Front trimming required for street driving. Never really wheeled it, but I'm sure it would have needed more trimming in front.
So I voted nekkid of course
For mainly DD duty/haul stuff in the truck bed type of rig, I wouldn't go with more than 2" and 33s since it sounds like you already have a more trail purpose built rig for the more serious offroading. A nice 2" lift and 33s will still give you a decently performing vehicle offroad as well. Also, maybe it's just me, but bigger tires seem kind of out of place on a swb pickup vs a lwb pickup or a blazer.
Stock height 35's is not an option and it should be.
I'm running 33's on 10 inch wheels. Zero rate blocks in front, and 2 " blocks in rear. 1" body lift, and stock springs. 3" lift shocks on all four corners, and longer brake lines. I also moved
the axle forwards using the zero rate blocks. Rides very nice. Is very stable offroad, and will go almost anywhere. Some trimming was required at the front and rear of the front fenders. Most of this is caused by the 10" wide wheels, and also the wheel travel. Without the body lift, it would actually stuff the front tire into the top of the inner fender.
the axle forwards using the zero rate blocks. Rides very nice. Is very stable offroad, and will go almost anywhere. Some trimming was required at the front and rear of the front fenders. Most of this is caused by the 10" wide wheels, and also the wheel travel. Without the body lift, it would actually stuff the front tire into the top of the inner fender.
I like that setup a lot. The only thing I may do different is a 2.5" rear shackle flip instead of the blocks.
I agree. The rear blocks were a way of not dropping the fuel tank, and skid plate, to install the shackle flip. You won't have that problem with the pickup. I thought I'd try the blocks first, and if I got too much wheelhop, I'd swap for the shackle flip, but so far, not a problem.
Are you running stock steering?
I am running stock steering. I can't do crossover steering without more lift. Moving the axle forwards worsened the short steering link problems. I've learned to drive it well enough, that it's not much of a problem. I've had my share of crappy steering box failures, and power steering pump problems, though. Putting on a NEW, not rebuilt box this weekend. We'll see how that works.
With this much flex in the springs, I had to put a 2" drop pitman arm on it, otherwise it would bottom out the tie rod ends, and cut the rubber cups. lol
Great information. Thanks for the help.
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4’ lift 37 tires 17’ wheels... they are new so excuse the lack of dirt and abundance of the shiny...
4’ lift 37 tires 17’ wheels... they are new so excuse the lack of dirt and abundance of the shiny...
